LaRue MBT Trigger Install Questions

[m4luvr]

Mike’s tool and the KNS Precision, Inc. AR15 Hammer/Trigger Pin Assembly Guide seem to work well for me

[AndyLate]

Perhaps struggle is too strong a word. AR triggers drop right in but the hammers have to be rotated against fairly stiff springs and can move in 4 directions.

Nonetheless, a person who installs triggers/hammers more than a couple times a year should only take a few minutes to swap one.

Hard to compare against videos. The guy or gal doing the video may have practiced once or twice before filming.

Andy

[1_click_off]

I have 6 of those triggers and never an issue. I even put one in a M&P 15/22. You made a good choice. Are there better triggers out there, sure. Are there better triggers for the money, I don’t feel there is. (With that said, I haven’t tried a Centurion Arms yet.....)

[Alex V]

Never had a light primer strike with an MBT and I don't use the heavier spring.

Also, never had a problem installing the two I have. I'm guessing the guy at the counters just hadn't done it in a while... or ever...

[202]

I have two of the 2 Stage Larue triggers. The newest one has only about 200 rounds through it, but never a problem with them. Well built and smooth triggers.

[titsonritz]

Run a punch through it before messing with the pin.

Slave pin.

[Warp]

It varies. I've done some trigger installs in my time now. I put a lower together just recently, maybe a couple weeks ago, easy as pie straight through from memory and felt like it took 10 minutes for the whole thing.

Then yesterday I simply swapped the trigger on an existing lower and damn if it didn't take me about half an hour and a lot of swearing to get it done.

One thing I learned: If you already have a Geissele maritime bolt catch installed, you can't use a slave pin nor can you run a punch through from the opposite side, because the bolt catch blocks the punch or pin from having a straight shot.

Another thing I learned: My bench is far too cluttered because as soon as I drop the pin, I can't find it and have to start dumping out boxes and cans from under the bench to see which one it went into and buries itself.

Getting the hammer pin through cleanly can be frustrating and you may find yourself wishing you did, in fact, have 3 hands. Use a slave pin or punch from the other side, you don't want to be trying to fight the hammer's spring tension entirely with your thumb while trying to line it up and then push the pin through. And don't compare to YouTube videos, those folks made those videos and they are popular enough that the search algorithm gave them to you for a reason (they are often very good at it). Also, it's pretty easy to do many takes and only use the good one, it's also common for guys to cut the video briefly to do what they just explained "because it's hard to do it in camera shot" so there's no telling how long they took.


Also, that LaRue trigger is a winner. If it's installed correctly (look up the correct hammer spring orientation and look into your lower to make sure yours is correct), you won't have any primer strike issues whatsoever.

[titsonritz]

It varies. I've done some trigger installs in my time now. I put a lower together just recently, maybe a couple weeks ago, easy as pie straight through from memory and felt like it took 10 minutes for the whole thing.

Then yesterday I simply swapped the trigger on an existing lower and damn if it didn't take me about half an hour and a lot of swearing to get it done.

One thing I learned: If you already have a Geissele maritime bolt catch installed, you can't use a slave pin nor can you run a punch through from the opposite side, because the bolt catch blocks the punch or pin from having a straight shot.

Another thing I learned: My bench is far too cluttered because as soon as I drop the pin, I can't find it and have to start dumping out boxes and cans from under the bench to see which one it went into and buries itself.

Getting the hammer pin through cleanly can be frustrating and you may find yourself wishing you did, in fact, have 3 hands. Use a slave pin or punch from the other side, you don't want to be trying to fight the hammer's spring tension entirely with your thumb while trying to line it up and then push the pin through. And don't compare to YouTube videos, those folks made those videos and they are popular enough that the search algorithm gave them to you for a reason (they are often very good at it). Also, it's pretty easy to do many takes and only use the good one, it's also common for guys to cut the video briefly to do what they just explained "because it's hard to do it in camera shot" so there's no telling how long they took.


Also, that LaRue trigger is a winner. If it's installed correctly (look up the correct hammer spring orientation and look into your lower to make sure yours is correct), you won't have any primer strike issues whatsoever.

The slave pin is for holding the trigger and disconnector assembly together, the Maritime bolt catch does not interfere with the trigger pin hole. A slave pin does nothing for you at the hammer pin hole. There you cock the hammer and align with your pin punch, remove pin punch while holding the hammer with thumb and insert hammer pin.

Also, there is no reason to remove the safety with a proper trigger.

[AndyLate]

The MBT disconnector is semi-permanently attached to the trigger - no slave pin needed.

On a Mil Spec design trigger (and G trigger) there is no need to remove the safety. On the MBT, the safety normally needs to be removed.

Andy

[Warp]

The slave pin is for holding the trigger and disconnector assembly together, the Maritime bolt catch does not interfere with the trigger pin hole. A slave pin does nothing for you at the hammer pin hole. There you cock the hammer and align with your pin punch, remove pin punch while holding the hammer with thumb and insert hammer pin.

Also, there is no reason to remove the safety with a proper trigger.

Lining up with the punch, then removing the punch, then inserting the hammer pin, is a good strategy, when it works. I've had it work. I've had it not work, just a little movement in doing that and suddenly things aren't aligned any more. If you're good, that's probably the fastest.

I rather run the punch through from the backside to keep that lined up, and then push the pin through following the punch as I back the punch up. That way is easier for me. When doing so is not blocked.

The bright shiny sliver slave pin helps me with the hammer pin install, usually doing it that way is the easiest for me, not punch required, just look for the shiny and you're lined up, push the pin through.

There's more than one way to do it, and some of those ways are interfered with when you have an oversize bolt catch in the way. This I recently learned.