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Thread: Red Line Assembly Lube

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    I don't care to buy three or four different lubes and start mixing. I would prefer a simpler solution that gives 90% performance.
    Just go with the Slip 2000 EWL 30.

  2. #12
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    I have used quite a bit of Red Line Assembly Lube building high horsepower turbo and nitrous engines so some of that may have migrated into my gun cleaning stuff, it worked fine.

    I do however tend to use "Gun" related cleaning products and lube. I really like the Lucas Oil Gun Products and I also recently have been using Cherry Balmz Gun Grease, that seems to be some good Gun Grease.

    All the Gun related products may be more expensive but it isn't like I go through it like I go through ammo. 🤣
    Last edited by Spooky1; 07-02-21 at 20:28. Reason: Due to brain f***

  3. #13
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    I assume you mean CherryBalmz. Since you've used that and Red Line Assembly Lube how similar are they? Do the boutique products do something the others don't?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    I assume you mean CherryBalmz. Since you've used that and Red Line Assembly Lube how similar are they? Do the boutique products do something the others don't?
    I’ve never used assembly lube, but I used Cherry Balmz for like 9 months. I found it did an excellent job of staying put, but eventually would crud up, and the gun would get sluggish. Some of my friends found the same. Full-time suppressed, so the guns get blacker than usual. I’m back on CLP, Go Juice, or the occasional dab of Lubriplate SFL-0. I think you’re the one that steered me back toward CLP, actually.
    Last edited by 1168; 07-02-21 at 20:04.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    I assume you mean CherryBalmz. Since you've used that and Red Line Assembly Lube how similar are they? Do the boutique products do something the others don't?
    Yeah, I screwed up the name, I will fix that.

    Anyway I believe the Cherry Balmz does a better job sticking where its supposed to and catching the crud and holding it. I normally clean when it goes from the reddish, pinkish color to a cruddy blackish color.

    The Red Line stuff to me seems to act like it picked up more of the unburned powder, carbon, and gunk faster. It seems to work well but it made my Carbine sluggish about as fast as the Lucas Gun Grease.

    I don't want to tell you anything wrong, I really haven't put the two products to a side by side test although it would be cool and my buddy's and myself will be shooting some Sunday evening and Monday so I may be able to test it out a bit.

    As far as what the "Gun Oil/Grease" does that automotive Oil/Grease dosen't, that is more me putting my faith into it than anything, sorta a placebo I guess, just trying to be as straightforward as I can, don't know if I helped answer anything or made it more difficult. 🤣
    Last edited by Spooky1; 07-02-21 at 20:37. Reason: Gone retarded tonight

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    I think you’re the one that steered me back toward CLP, actually.
    I am trying to think of how that would have happened. I do favor CLP, G96 currently, but I shouldn't have been making recommendations as I don't have the experience. Maybe I quoted someone with more authority, or asked something like how has CLP failed you that caused you to try it again.

    For grease I've been using TW25B but it doesn't feel as slick as the factory grease on my MBT-2S, and it seems to dry out or separate sometimes maybe from interacting with other lubricants. The Red Line Assembly Lube is designed to blend into oil so I hope it would avoid that problem, and BufordTJustice described it as very slick. I want something that won't run, so I don't think Slip 2000 EWL 30 which is described as having the consistency of engine oil is it.

    What is the Lubriplate like? Does it get gummy or chalky if mixed with other lubes? Is is good on sears?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooky1 View Post
    don't know if I helped answer anything or made it more difficult. ��
    I appreciate the effort.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    I appreciate the effort.
    No problem, I have learned a lot from your posts about other things, thank you.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    I am trying to think of how that would have happened. I do favor CLP, G96 currently, but I shouldn't have been making recommendations as I don't have the experience. Maybe I quoted someone with more authority, or asked something like how has CLP failed you that caused you to try it again.

    For grease I've been using TW25B but it doesn't feel as slick as the factory grease on my MBT-2S, and it seems to dry out or separate sometimes maybe from interacting with other lubricants. The Red Line Assembly Lube is designed to blend into oil so I hope it would avoid that problem, and BufordTJustice described it as very slick. I want something that won't run, so I don't think Slip 2000 EWL 30 which is described as having the consistency of engine oil is it.

    What is the Lubriplate like? Does it get gummy or chalky if mixed with other lubes? Is is good on sears?
    Someone PM’d me like a year ago with some details on the standard for current CLP, and I dove into a bit of research on it. I determined that the DoD had it figured out, at least as well as I would be able to, and it was the easy button.

    TW25b is pretty good stuff. It does separate. It is excellent in beltfeds, and I have a lifetime supply from that. It seems pretty similar to Lubriplate SFL-0, maybe slightly thicker or stickier. Also, a bead of it across a sidewalk will kill the shit out of the giant ants in Ar Ramadi when they get stuck in it. I like the way it goops up a Q-Tip.

    Lubriplate SFL-0 is awesome on sears, and thats mainly what I use it for, although lately, I find myself just using a little CLP instead of grabbing the syringe, with indistinguishable scores on paper or steel. I don’t deliberately mix it, but it does not seem to suffer from contact with oil. I learned about it (and AW-350) here, years ago: https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006...brication-101/ The AW-350 oil in that article is also good to go, and inexpensive.

    Unscientific.
    RLTW

    “What’s New” button, but without GD: https://www.m4carbine.net/search.php...new&exclude=60 , courtesy of ST911.

    Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Someone PM’d me like a year ago with some details on the standard for current CLP, and I dove into a bit of research on it. I determined that the DoD had it figured out, at least as well as I would be able to, and it was the easy button.

    TW25b is pretty good stuff. It does separate. It is excellent in beltfeds, and I have a lifetime supply from that. It seems pretty similar to Lubriplate SFL-0, maybe slightly thicker or stickier. Also, a bead of it across a sidewalk will kill the shit out of the giant ants in Ar Ramadi when they get stuck in it. I like the way it goops up a Q-Tip.

    Lubriplate SFL-0 is awesome on sears, and thats mainly what I use it for, although lately, I find myself just using a little CLP instead of grabbing the syringe, with indistinguishable scores on paper or steel. I don’t deliberately mix it, but it does not seem to suffer from contact with oil. I learned about it (and AW-350) here, years ago: https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006...brication-101/ The AW-350 oil in that article is also good to go, and inexpensive.

    Unscientific.

    What CLP would you recommend? I have been using the Lucas CLP but I am about out of it. While I like using Grease where things slide violently I like CLP also for cleaning and protecting.

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