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Thread: converting to a flattop reciever, how??

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by warpigM-4 View Post
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...20VISE%20BLOCK


    http://www.adcofirearms.com/itemdeta...orynumber=1626

    2 different types here.

    the barrel wrench you can pick up anywhere for about 10 bucks for a GI model
    just take your time and read as much as you can ,the videos on the brownells site are dead on for the swap ,just remember 30FT/LBS on the barrel nut
    bushmaster clamp
    http://www.bushmaster.com/products.asp?cat=15


    I got this from Iraqgunz(he is the man)


    1. Put the barrel in (complete) apply anti-seize to the threads (can use Loc-tite brand commonly found) and then tighten the barrel locking nut down (doesn't need to be to torque specs) and then loosen. Do this one more time and then torque it down on the 3rd time. This is bascially to work the threads and assist in in not loosening down the road.

    FYI- I don't use a torque wrench as I have done enough of them and can do it by feel.

    2. When you start to get close to the torque point, you need to watch where your nut will end up to make sure that the gas tube will go in correctly. It will also take a little finesse. You kind of have to"use the force" to guide you on this. Put the gas tube in and tap in the roll pin.

    3. If the gas tube is a little crooked it's OK because you can gently pry it left or right with a flat tip to get it straight. Put your bolt carrier w/o bolt in the upper and see how the bolt carrier key meets up with the gas tube.

    4. Headspace- the headspace has to do with the distance from the bolt face to the rear of the casing when it is seated in the chamber properly. It is important to check the headspace, especially if you aren't using Colt/ Milspec parts. Bushamster now sells a "Field" headspace gauge for about 30.00. As far as I am concerned the TM only refers to the "Field" gauge and that is good enough for me.
    Last edited by warpigM-4; 12-11-08 at 16:19.


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