"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
Why do you not re-barrel it? That is what I usually do. I test my groups every 6 months to see when they get beyonf acceptable because of barrel life. My Noveske 12.5 has gone through 2 SS 12.5s amd is now on a CHF 12.5 (That thing has ton of runds through it and is still going).
In no way do I make any money from anyone related to the firearms industry.
"I have never heard anyone say after a firefight that I wish that I had not taken so much ammo.", ME
"Texas can make it without the United States, but the United States can't make it without Texas !", General Sam Houston
I concluded that it is harder to remove the buffer and spring lol. It does provide more force in battery, but if IIRC from my thread about it, less when fully retracted, compared to a Colt spring. Perhaps this is beneficial, or perhaps it could contribute to failing to fully strip the first round. I haven’t been able to reproduce that problem reliably enough to test it. It basically only happens when I’m not trying for it. But, Colt springs are a known quantity, cheap, and last a long time in an A5.
As for the split times, I don’t usually look at them (just total time and time to the first shot), so I don’t really track what’s normal for me. I was only shooting at 10yds, because I needed to be able to see my misses, since only A-Zone hits count for the purpose of this exercise. I tried at 15yds, but it was too tedious checking the target after each pair. .11 sounded a little fast, so I checked the strings for echo or brass ping. Each time, the timer only registered the two shots. Also, the other buffers did not (consistently) yield such times, and were less consistent. When I reduced the shot dead time on the timer, the splits did not get faster, so I think I ruled out equipment error. I was also starting from a “perfect” stance with my dot already on the target, so it wasn’t a good test of “me”, and it was ideal conditions (not even kinda real).
Trigger used was a Wilson Combat “Paul Howe” TTU. I’ve been using it primarily for a few years. There are faster (and slower) triggers, but the limiting factor is usually recoil control, sight picture, and decision making. So, I can’t conclusively say that it always matters. But a good trigger of any decent brand can help by reducing the tendency to disturb the weapon when rushing, and if speed up close is the most important, a light and short trigger might help. I do think many people are in too much of a rush to upgrade their trigger to buy skill.
Search youtube for “milspec mojo”. He’s very fast with an allegedly mil-spec trigger, and he’s got a video with Garand Thumb that you might find helpful.
I rarely shoot prone. Most shooting done off hand or from a bench.
I use a variety of optics on my many rifles from LVPO to RDS to regular old scopes.
I suppose there is some personal preference / comfort involved.
Going to have to measure my arms tonight and do some research I think.
Last edited by HKGuns; 04-29-22 at 10:54.
Its a better can than I expected. Its less gassy than many, by virtue of having only 3 baffles.
I will, eventually. I’ve got another 12.5” upper thats been waiting for its turn at first string. In the meantime, its still got some life left.
My Noveske stainless 14.5” is also getting there soon, but it shoots so well I don’t want to mess with it. Velocity is starting to fall off, but accuracy is still very good. Its always a shame to retire a barrel that has good voodoo.
I asked about optics, because some LPVOs make me want to run the stock a click longer. I just pulled my stock all the way out, which is only two clicks past my usual, and did some presentations from both high and low, and its definitely workable with the relatively light SBR, but is close to the limit of what I could be happy with. On a 14.5” with a can, it’d feel like a poleaxe. From the high port, it snagged my shirt a couple times.
Because I have a variety of optics with varied eye boxes, when I mount them I always adjust their position on the mount to match my standard, fully extended LOP at either the first or second position on the receiver rail. Depending on optic and eye relief of the particular optic at full magnification.
So I don’t switch my LOP around very much, if ever because of optic.
RDS are a different animal and always go as far forward as possible without leaving the upper and creeping onto the rail and obviously far less position sensitive.
After looking more closely at the picture it just might be that facial hair you sportin!
Last edited by HKGuns; 04-29-22 at 12:09.
No doubt. dB means something, but its far from the most important thing on a self-loader. And that full auto rating trend gave us some Abrams tanks. But, the Turbo K actually sounds surprisingly good, and I think its “full auto rated”. Its tubeless, but has an inconel blast baffle. The Rex Silentium cans are also good-sounding, lightweight, and “full auto rated”.
I generally mount my optics the same way, but I have one or two that seem to have extra-long eye relief and I feel a little close in the prone, so I stretch the stock a bit. It doesn’t sound like thats the case for you.
Speaking of facial hair and stocks, that Vltor stock was awful back in the day about stealing beard hairs lol. This one works well with and without beards, thankfully.
Bookmarks