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Thread: Footlong

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Turbo K and MG7k cans
    -the Turbo K is pretty durable and works pretty well for sound on the 12.3.
    -the downside is that it is really small and predates the model with the flash hider cap.
    -There is correlation to internal volume and flash hiding, in my experience, and the MG7k checks that block at night. I’m sure a SOCOM II fullsize would do extremely well on this gun, but it is longer and heavier than I would like. The Rex’s tubeless design and 1.7” OD give it above-average internal volume for a given length, letting me stay relatively short
    -the Rex can also sounds really freaking great
    -either of these cans are lighter than most of my other cans, and that was a consideration for moving to 12.3/5” from 11.3/5”
    I want that Turbo K can real bad, Cowboy!

    I pretty much hate suppressed ARs, but if you can make it a light shorty that doesn't have a lot of gassy to it. I'm in.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Sure. I track velocity over the life of a gun, and use reference loads to do so. I’ve lost around 200fps over time, although I’m having a hard time finding the exact velocities at the moment. I feel like accuracy has fallen off slightly, but I don’t do any benchrest, so its only a feeling. I’d like to stretch its life out longer, so its not going to be my every week gun anymore, and its ammo diet will shift to milder loads.
    Why do you not re-barrel it? That is what I usually do. I test my groups every 6 months to see when they get beyonf acceptable because of barrel life. My Noveske 12.5 has gone through 2 SS 12.5s amd is now on a CHF 12.5 (That thing has ton of runds through it and is still going).
    In no way do I make any money from anyone related to the firearms industry.


    "I have never heard anyone say after a firefight that I wish that I had not taken so much ammo.", ME

    "Texas can make it without the United States, but the United States can't make it without Texas !", General Sam Houston

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    What were your conclusions on the Tubbs spring?

    Thanks for the results of your testing. Very interesting.

    Impressive split times. Which trigger were those with, and would it matter?
    I concluded that it is harder to remove the buffer and spring lol. It does provide more force in battery, but if IIRC from my thread about it, less when fully retracted, compared to a Colt spring. Perhaps this is beneficial, or perhaps it could contribute to failing to fully strip the first round. I haven’t been able to reproduce that problem reliably enough to test it. It basically only happens when I’m not trying for it. But, Colt springs are a known quantity, cheap, and last a long time in an A5.


    As for the split times, I don’t usually look at them (just total time and time to the first shot), so I don’t really track what’s normal for me. I was only shooting at 10yds, because I needed to be able to see my misses, since only A-Zone hits count for the purpose of this exercise. I tried at 15yds, but it was too tedious checking the target after each pair. .11 sounded a little fast, so I checked the strings for echo or brass ping. Each time, the timer only registered the two shots. Also, the other buffers did not (consistently) yield such times, and were less consistent. When I reduced the shot dead time on the timer, the splits did not get faster, so I think I ruled out equipment error. I was also starting from a “perfect” stance with my dot already on the target, so it wasn’t a good test of “me”, and it was ideal conditions (not even kinda real).

    Trigger used was a Wilson Combat “Paul Howe” TTU. I’ve been using it primarily for a few years. There are faster (and slower) triggers, but the limiting factor is usually recoil control, sight picture, and decision making. So, I can’t conclusively say that it always matters. But a good trigger of any decent brand can help by reducing the tendency to disturb the weapon when rushing, and if speed up close is the most important, a light and short trigger might help. I do think many people are in too much of a rush to upgrade their trigger to buy skill.

    Search youtube for “milspec mojo”. He’s very fast with an allegedly mil-spec trigger, and he’s got a video with Garand Thumb that you might find helpful.

  4. #24
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    Footlong

    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    You’ve got gorilla arms. Just kidding. With a BCM stock, fully extended on an A5 puts you about 5/8” longer than an A2, or 1.25” past an A1. I usually find my happy spot around A1 length, and most of the guys I know end up at the same, or within a click of it.

    Do you shoot primarily in the prone? What optic do you use?
    I rarely shoot prone. Most shooting done off hand or from a bench.

    I use a variety of optics on my many rifles from LVPO to RDS to regular old scopes.

    I suppose there is some personal preference / comfort involved.

    Going to have to measure my arms tonight and do some research I think.
    Last edited by HKGuns; 04-29-22 at 10:54.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Five_Point_Five_Six View Post
    This was the method that Kyle Lamb demonstrated in a class several years ago and I've been using it to set stock length since. I don't treat it like the gospel though, I've found that one click in or one click out from that method are still very much usable for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I want that Turbo K can real bad, Cowboy!

    I pretty much hate suppressed ARs, but if you can make it a light shorty that doesn't have a lot of gassy to it. I'm in.
    Its a better can than I expected. Its less gassy than many, by virtue of having only 3 baffles.

    Quote Originally Posted by docsherm View Post
    Why do you not re-barrel it? That is what I usually do. I test my groups every 6 months to see when they get beyonf acceptable because of barrel life. My Noveske 12.5 has gone through 2 SS 12.5s amd is now on a CHF 12.5 (That thing has ton of runds through it and is still going).
    I will, eventually. I’ve got another 12.5” upper thats been waiting for its turn at first string. In the meantime, its still got some life left.

    My Noveske stainless 14.5” is also getting there soon, but it shoots so well I don’t want to mess with it. Velocity is starting to fall off, but accuracy is still very good. Its always a shame to retire a barrel that has good voodoo.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Its a better can than I expected. Its less gassy than many, by virtue of having only 3 baffles.
    Everyone used to shop cans by Db rating and Full Auto rating. The two things that make an AR can bad (Heavy and Gassy)
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    I rarely shoot prone. Most shooting done off hand or from a bench.

    I use a variety of optics on my many rifles from LVPO to RDS to regular old scopes.

    I suppose there is some personal preference / comfort involved.

    Going to have to measure my arms tonight and do some research I think.
    I asked about optics, because some LPVOs make me want to run the stock a click longer. I just pulled my stock all the way out, which is only two clicks past my usual, and did some presentations from both high and low, and its definitely workable with the relatively light SBR, but is close to the limit of what I could be happy with. On a 14.5” with a can, it’d feel like a poleaxe. From the high port, it snagged my shirt a couple times.

  8. #28
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    Footlong

    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    I asked about optics, because some LPVOs make me want to run the stock a click longer. I just pulled my stock all the way out, which is only two clicks past my usual, and did some presentations from both high and low, and its definitely workable with the relatively light SBR, but is close to the limit of what I could be happy with. On a 14.5” with a can, it’d feel like a poleaxe. From the high port, it snagged my shirt a couple times.
    Because I have a variety of optics with varied eye boxes, when I mount them I always adjust their position on the mount to match my standard, fully extended LOP at either the first or second position on the receiver rail. Depending on optic and eye relief of the particular optic at full magnification.

    So I don’t switch my LOP around very much, if ever because of optic.

    RDS are a different animal and always go as far forward as possible without leaving the upper and creeping onto the rail and obviously far less position sensitive.

    After looking more closely at the picture it just might be that facial hair you sportin!
    Last edited by HKGuns; 04-29-22 at 12:09.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Everyone used to shop cans by Db rating and Full Auto rating. The two things that make an AR can bad (Heavy and Gassy)
    No doubt. dB means something, but its far from the most important thing on a self-loader. And that full auto rating trend gave us some Abrams tanks. But, the Turbo K actually sounds surprisingly good, and I think its “full auto rated”. Its tubeless, but has an inconel blast baffle. The Rex Silentium cans are also good-sounding, lightweight, and “full auto rated”.

    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Because I have a variety of optics with varied eye boxes, when I mount them I always adjust their position on the mount to match my standard, fully extended LOP at either the first or second position on the receiver rail. Depending on optic and eye relief of the particular optic at full magnification.

    So I don’t switch my LOP around very much, if ever because of optic.

    RDS are a different animal and always go as far forward as possible without leaving the upper and creeping onto the rail and obviously far less position sensitive.

    After looking more closely at the picture it just might be that facial hair you sportin!
    I generally mount my optics the same way, but I have one or two that seem to have extra-long eye relief and I feel a little close in the prone, so I stretch the stock a bit. It doesn’t sound like thats the case for you.

    Speaking of facial hair and stocks, that Vltor stock was awful back in the day about stealing beard hairs lol. This one works well with and without beards, thankfully.

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