Footlong

[1168]

Which inconel springs? I thought you did a thread on it, but don't remember where.

I think the takedown pin detent springs, buffer detent spring, and mag release spring. Maybe bolt catch spring. I didn’t like the selector detent spring; it made the selector feel different. The trigger springs were slightly weaker than stock ones, but I’m using two stages, so they were out, anyway. I may have used an ejection port door spring on something; don’t remember.

Honestly, I can’t say I recommend them at this point. I was unable to make them corrode, so that’s cool, but both times I ordered them, they sent me AK action springs instead. First time, I sent them an email, and they sent me a RMA, and I emailed them back and got a shipping label, and it was cool from there. Two sets, I think. Second time, I ordered a few sets, and again they sent me a few AK action springs. I emailed, they didn’t answer; I called, they didn’t answer, so I’m just not going to work with them anymore. If they have that much trouble getting their shit together, they can sort it out without me. It is an interesting product, though, that I could be enthusiastic about.

[Dutch110]

I'm a big fan of those PWS ratcheting castle nuts and end plates. But mostly because I'm lazy. Nice build. I just got done with a 10.5 over the weekend and need to shoot it before I post it up and declare it a success.

[1168]

I'm a big fan of those PWS ratcheting castle nuts and end plates. But mostly because I'm lazy. Nice build. I just got done with a 10.5 over the weekend and need to shoot it before I post it up and declare it a success.

Thanks. What had happened was, on a different rifle, I wanted to attach a sling to the endplate. Well, it had a regular Colt one. So, I busted it loose, swapped endplates, and tried to stake it. Well, it was nitrided and hard and ate my starter punch, which rounded and had to be replaced. So I grabbed a BCM one, which staked nicely. No problem. Until I switched to an A5 to gain buffer weight when suppressed, and had to get yet another new endplate, because I couldn’t stake it in the same spot.

So a buddy turned me onto these PWS ones like he had on his rifle, and I’ve used them on each subsequent lower that I’ve assembled. Coincidentally, I haven’t had to remove the castle nut or endplate on a rifle I’ve assembled since, but it is nice to know that I can easily do so. Plus, it does satisfy my laziness with its quick installation.

[Dutch110]

Thanks. What had happened was, on a different rifle, I wanted to attach a sling to the endplate. Well, it had a regular Colt one. So, I busted it loose, swapped endplates, and tried to stake it. Well, it was nitrided and hard and ate my starter punch, which rounded and had to be replaced. So I grabbed a BCM one, which staked nicely. No problem. Until I switched to an A5 to gain buffer weight when suppressed, and had to get yet another new endplate, because I couldn’t stake it in the same spot.

So a buddy turned me onto these PWS ones like he had on his rifle, and I’ve used them on each subsequent lower that I’ve assembled. Coincidentally, I haven’t had to remove the castle nut or endplate on a rifle I’ve assembled since, but it is nice to know that I can easily do so. Plus, it does satisfy my laziness with its quick installation.

I used the original PWS design on a build a little over 10 years ago. It was not nearly as user friendly. I still have that sitting in my spare parts bin. Funny, I had to remove one of the newer ones last week and it came off nicely. At 30 bucks a pop at BDU you really can't beat the price either. My problem is I really like the PWS receiver extension that goes along with it. It's borderline Gucci but I dig it. So I usually end up buying the set for a 100 bucks or so.

[1168]

Few q's about it:
- How many rounds do you have through it?
- What accuracy do you get with Hanson 12.5"?
- have you tried Sprinco Green or a regular rifle spring instead of Tubbs?
- what was the original gas port size?

-Somewhere just north of 10k. Its started to slow down on the chrono, and the distant targets are starting to get less consistent hits.
-I still haven’t attempted to benchrest it.
-I’m currently using a Colt rifle spring, as I’ve concluded all the “experiments” with the Tubbs, for now.
-internet tells me 0.067”, which would make sense. I’ve put a regular gas tube in it as it will no longer be a full-time suppressor host. With that, there is a little more drama with a can than I remember from when it was new.

Coincidentally, I haven’t had to remove the castle nut or endplate on a rifle I’ve assembled since, but it is nice to know that I can easily do so. Plus, it does satisfy my laziness with its quick installation.

Correction: I recently had to tighten up one of these on my 9mm SBR lower. I don’t know why it would matter, but that lower is well used, and one day I twisted the stock a little and it moved.

Update on this one. Its now using a regular gas tube, A5H2, Colt spring, CD OWL, Troy front sight, modified Griffin muzzle device, BCM charging handle. As noted above, the barrel has aged to the point that I’ve pulled the gun from first-line status. I’ll get another year or so out of it as a backup/CQB gun. I pulled the IR stuff off it and it just wears a light up front now with more rail covers. Its still an awesome CQB peice and handles like an extension of my mind. I put the index nub from a Magpul fingerstop kit on it.

In the process of updating the gun, I found that the bolt wouldn’t extend no matter how hard I flicked it. A drop of oil on the hole that goes to the bolt tail cured that. You’ll see why that matters in a bit.

I shot 100 hammer pairs with it yesterday, using all 5 A5 buffers, and decided on A5H2. It gave me the fastest splits on the timer. Much better than the A5H4 and A5H3, and a little faster than A5H1 and A5H0. My process was to set the beep delay to random, place a 3” sticker in the A-Zone, and start each pair holding the sticker while waiting for the beep. Then fire a pair as fast as I can get A-Zone hits. I got 3 misses (B/C) in roughly 200 rnds, which I excluded from my average times for the purpose of testing buffers. I did find (too late) that I had to lower the minimum time on my timer, because I had 7/8 of my first pairs .11 splits with the A5H2, and that seemed suspicious. Turns out it was set to read .11 at a minimum.

I did have one failure to acheive battery on the first round from a full mag with the A5H4. It was the first mag of the day. I have since lightly cleaned and lubricated it. Much smoother now.

[docsherm]

-Somewhere just north of 10k. Its started to slow down on the chrono, and the distant targets are starting to get less consistent hits.
-I still haven’t attempted to benchrest it.
-I’m currently using a Colt rifle spring, as I’ve concluded all the “experiments” with the Tubbs, for now.
-internet tells me 0.067”, which would make sense. I’ve put a regular gas tube in it as it will no longer be a full-time suppressor host. With that, there is a little more drama with a can than I remember from when it was new.


Correction: I recently had to tighten up one of these on my 9mm SBR lower. I don’t know why it would matter, but that lower is well used, and one day I twisted the stock a little and it moved.

Update on this one. Its now using a regular gas tube, A5H2, Colt spring, CD OWL, Troy front sight, modified Griffin muzzle device, BCM charging handle. As noted above, the barrel has aged to the point that I’ve pulled the gun from first-line status. I’ll get another year or so out of it as a backup/CQB gun. I pulled the IR stuff off it and it just wears a light up front now with more rail covers. Its still an awesome CQB peice and handles like an extension of my mind. I put the index nub from a Magpul fingerstop kit on it.

In the process of updating the gun, I found that the bolt wouldn’t extend no matter how hard I flicked it. A drop of oil on the hole that goes to the bolt tail cured that. You’ll see why that matters in a bit.

I shot 100 hammer pairs with it yesterday, using all 5 A5 buffers, and decided on A5H2. It gave me the fastest splits on the timer. Much better than the A5H4 and A5H3, and a little faster than A5H1 and A5H0. My process was to set the beep delay to random, place a 3” sticker in the A-Zone, and start each pair holding the sticker while waiting for the beep. Then fire a pair as fast as I can get A-Zone hits. I got 3 misses (B/C) in roughly 200 rnds, which I excluded from my average times for the purpose of testing buffers. I did find (too late) that I had to lower the minimum time on my timer, because I had 7/8 of my first pairs .11 splits with the A5H2, and that seemed suspicious. Turns out it was set to read .11 at a minimum.

I did have one failure to acheive battery on the first round from a full mag with the A5H4. It was the first mag of the day. I have since lightly cleaned and lubricated it. Much smoother now.

Can you go more into this?

[HKGuns]

But even then, I mostly stick to the above technique. With a longer gun and a bunch of clothes and such, I’ll bring it in a click.

When you reload, you should be able to stabilize the weapon with the stock, without being cramped. I have people hold the weapon like they’re reloading and push the handguard down vigorously with their support hand. You’ll feel what I mean in your firing hand wrist.

I’m 5’7”, 140-150.

I’m 5’5” and roughly the same weight and my 7 pos A5 RE’s / CTR’s are usually fully extended without wearing anything but a shirt.

You sporting some TREX arms or is that due to your gear?

ETA: I suppose I could be sportin’ gorilla arms, but didn’t think so…..

[1168]

Can you go more into this?

Sure. I track velocity over the life of a gun, and use reference loads to do so. I’ve lost around 200fps over time, although I’m having a hard time finding the exact velocities at the moment. I feel like accuracy has fallen off slightly, but I don’t do any benchrest, so its only a feeling. I’d like to stretch its life out longer, so its not going to be my every week gun anymore, and its ammo diet will shift to milder loads.

I’m 5’5” and roughly the same weight and my 7 pos A5 RE’s / CTR’s are usually fully extended without wearing anything but a shirt.

You sporting some TREX arms or is that due to your gear?

ETA: I suppose I could be sportin’ gorilla arms, but didn’t think so…..

You’ve got gorilla arms. Just kidding. With a BCM stock, fully extended on an A5 puts you about 5/8” longer than an A2, or 1.25” past an A1. I usually find my happy spot around A1 length, and most of the guys I know end up at the same, or within a click of it.

Do you shoot primarily in the prone? What optic do you use?

[Disciple]

-I’m currently using a Colt rifle spring, as I’ve concluded all the “experiments” with the Tubbs, for now.

I shot 100 hammer pairs with it yesterday, using all 5 A5 buffers, and decided on A5H2. It gave me the fastest splits on the timer. Much better than the A5H4 and A5H3, and a little faster than A5H1 and A5H0. My process was to set the beep delay to random, place a 3” sticker in the A-Zone, and start each pair holding the sticker while waiting for the beep. Then fire a pair as fast as I can get A-Zone hits. I got 3 misses (B/C) in roughly 200 rnds, which I excluded from my average times for the purpose of testing buffers. I did find (too late) that I had to lower the minimum time on my timer, because I had 7/8 of my first pairs .11 splits with the A5H2, and that seemed suspicious. Turns out it was set to read .11 at a minimum.

What were your conclusions on the Tubbs spring?

Thanks for the results of your testing. Very interesting.

Impressive split times. Which trigger were those with, and would it matter?

[Five_Point_Five_Six]

I hold the unloaded weapon in my firing hand with the appropriate grip, and rotate the muzzle skyward. With my humerus horizontal and the weapon vertical, the stock should touch the inside of my elbow. For me, this is roughly A1 length, and results in my nose to charging handle when I go prone. If I’m prone for a while, I usually pull it out another click, and still have my nose barely touching it, but a little less cramped.

I deviate from this sometimes, preferring it slightly longer with a short handguard (6920), just because my left hand feels too close. But even then, I mostly stick to the above technique. With a longer gun and a bunch of clothes and such, I’ll bring it in a click.

When you reload, you should be able to stabilize the weapon with the stock, without being cramped. I have people hold the weapon like they’re reloading and push the handguard down vigorously with their support hand. You’ll feel what I mean in your firing hand wrist.

I’m 5’7”, 140-150.

This was the method that Kyle Lamb demonstrated in a class several years ago and I've been using it to set stock length since. I don't treat it like the gospel though, I've found that one click in or one click out from that method are still very much usable for me. If my wife shoots my rifle, she moves the stock in one click, so that's the position I leave the house gun in just in case I'm not home and she has to do the Lord's work in my absence.

For a lot of years I didn't really notice or care about stock length or pistol grip type, but I'm in my early 40s now and I have some elbow issues from years of repetitive manual labor that can manifest on a range trip if I'm running the stock too far in and not using a pistol grip like the BCM mod 3 that are more vertical than an A1/A2 or Magpul MOE.