Lower flex when torquing buffer tube

[17K]

Yeah I wouldn’t twist a receiver like that.

I hold the tube by the rail in a vice, and hold the receiver from spinning by holding it a big adjustable wrench on the flat that goes into the grip.

I torque to about 30#, lubed with oil, stake in two slots.

It’s not to spec, but I’ve never had one come loose in years of building some high round count lowers.

[Superhero]

Thank you for the response!

That sounds like a great way to install it. I'd rather damage a buffer tube than my lower receiver.

I didn't lube the threads, though it likely had some CLP on it.

I plan on staking it after i do a function test. Do you think it would be advisable to reinstall the buffer tube?

Is there any kind of metal fatigue or anything I should be concerned with?

Yeah I wouldn’t twist a receiver like that.

I hold the tube by the rail in a vice, and hold the receiver from spinning by holding it a big adjustable wrench on the flat that goes into the grip.

I torque to about 30#, lubed with oil, stake in two slots.

It’s not to spec, but I’ve never had one come loose in years of building some high round count lowers.

[Steve-0-]

Ive installed thousands of buffer tubes using a receiver block and then a reaction block. Some twist can occur but its never been an issue. I also lube the threads with anti-seize

[opngrnd]

Ive installed thousands of buffer tubes using a receiver block and then a reaction block. Some twist can occur but its never been an issue. I also lube the threads with anti-seize

Did the receiver block utilize the magwell?

[Steve-0-]

Did the receiver block utilize the magwell?

Yes, its an old brownells one. The reaction block is pretty kickass but having to slide the wrench on prior to insertion then use the grip instead of a stock to apply back pressure is a pain in the ass.

[Superhero]

Thanks for the input. I'm definitely a perfectionist so the knowledge is appreciated!

fwiw I spoke with geissele and they stated they torque to 40#, as does Daniel Defense.

[Stickman]

I'm lazy, I install a pistol grip, then stand on it or put it in a vise so that there is as little room for movement when locking the castle nut in place.

[titsonritz]

Yes, its an old brownells one. The reaction block is pretty kickass but having to slide the wrench on prior to insertion then use the grip instead of a stock to apply back pressure is a pain in the ass.

That is my only complaint about Magpul's wrench, Midwest Industries armorer's wrench solved that issue. Prior to that I would use BCM barrel nut wrench.

[Dutch110]

Or use the PWS ratcheting castle nut set up. Finger tight then two clicks past that and Bob's your Uncle. (puts on nomex suit to shield from the purists)

[17K]

Thank you for the response!

That sounds like a great way to install it. I'd rather damage a buffer tube than my lower receiver.

I didn't lube the threads, though it likely had some CLP on it.

I plan on staking it after i do a function test. Do you think it would be advisable to reinstall the buffer tube?

Is there any kind of metal fatigue or anything I should be concerned with?

I think it’s ok. The castle nut is just a jam nut to keep the tube from being loose. It doesn’t do a whole lot. 40 ft/lbs is way overkill IMO.

7075 is tough, I highly doubt you hurt anything.