Lower flex when torquing buffer tube

[556Cliff]

https://geissele.com/reaction-block-...tube-only.html

I have one and I can't recommend it as it allows the lower to rotate while applying torque to the castle nut.

It's good for holding the lower while staking the castle nut though. However, I've been having mixed results with staking endplates lately, the heat treat is too hard on a lot of them, even the ones I've been getting through Colt. So instead of a nice little staking dimple I get the end plate warping and pushing down between the castle nut and the lower receiver.

[1_click_off]

That wouldn't help in the least.

Why wouldn’t it? Help overall stiffness and the lower is making contact with the upper around the RE. So how does this not help in the least? Not arguing, just curious. I may be thinking about it too much.

[17K]

You have to hold the tube and the receiver. Whatever Colt uses still allows them to get the tube torqed the right side of the notch. I can do better holding the tube by the rail and backing it up with an adjustable wrench on the grip flat.

I thought I was losing my touch, but I have noticed that end plates are too hard lately. I had to resort to using a sharp 5/32” center punch to get the stake started and then a rounded off one to get enough metal moved and look nice.

[ViniVidivici]

In before the inevitable "ah never stake 'em, an' alwaiz use loctite, an' ain't never had a problem" response.

[dan1612]

Ah. I have it but haven’t actually used it.

Anyway:
Stake your nuts and pin your blocks. That’s my story.

[17K]

In before the inevitable "ah never stake 'em, an' alwaiz use loctite, an' ain't never had a problem" response.

Well in their defense they won’t have a problem until there is a problem and then it’s usually my problem because the upper is stuck on the lower and the BCG is halfway back so you end up cooking the thing with a heat gun trying to unlock the Locktite without burning the receivers with a torch so the whole thing can be disassembled to remove the primer that’s clogging the whole thing up. Or so I’ve heard.

[556Cliff]

You have to hold the tube and the receiver. Whatever Colt uses still allows them to get the tube torqed the right side of the notch. I can do better holding the tube by the rail and backing it up with an adjustable wrench on the grip flat.

I thought I was losing my touch, but I have noticed that end plates are too hard lately. I had to resort to using a sharp 5/32” center punch to get the stake started and then a rounded off one to get enough metal moved and look nice.

Hmmm, I never saw a Colt RE that wasn't in near perfect alignment with the lower. Maybe they retired their fancy jig with all the more recent crap going on over the last few years... I'd hate if that were the case, but I wouldn't doubt it.

And I'm glad you noticed the overly hard end plates too! I actually just recently sent my torque wrenches into Snap-On to be recalibrated because I thought that maybe they were out of calibration and were under torqueing the castle nuts, causing the end plates to not be secure enough to handle the staking. Turns out they were fine, but it cost me about $260 for unneeded overhaul/recalibration and recertification on the wrenches. Now that Colt's endplates are suspect I really have no idea where to find end plates of the proper hardness for a quality staking job???

[556Cliff]

Why wouldn’t it? Help overall stiffness and the lower is making contact with the upper around the RE. So how does this not help in the least? Not arguing, just curious. I may be thinking about it too much.

The upper is basically just floating on top of the lower and being retained by the takedown and pivot pins, I'm trying to envision a way in which it might be offering any support to the lower when torqueing a castle nut while the lower is being held by a mag well vise block, but I'm coming up empty?

[titsonritz]

Yes, its an old brownells one. The reaction block is pretty kickass but having to slide the wrench on prior to insertion then use the grip instead of a stock to apply back pressure is a pain in the ass.

That is my only complaint about Magpul's wrench, Midwest Industries armorer's wrench solved that issue. Prior to that I would use BCM barrel nut wrench.

[Dutch110]

Or use the PWS ratcheting castle nut set up. Finger tight then two clicks past that and Bob's your Uncle. (puts on nomex suit to shield from the purists)