AA2520 or IMR4064 for. 30-06 M1 Garand?

[Exiledviking]

I just noticed that there is one lot # of A2520 that is under recall. Info here.

Please check your stock before proceeding. :-)

I saw that the other night. Thankfully it only applies to 1 lb canisters. I'm picking up a 8 lbs jug. Thank you.

[m1a_scoutguy]

I appreciate that advice. After reading the service rifle section in the Sierra reloading book, I bought an RCBS Precision Mic https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing...n-mic/564.html to measure the headspace. That section was very informative. I plan on reading it again.

Yes, the Sierra manual has good info, I have that manual & as stated the Hornady has a Service rifle section also but use what ya have, it's all good. Here is some info I printed off years ago from the CMP Forum and keep tucked in the pages of my reloading books, good stuff & will be useful when & if times return to normal & you have access to more choices. The RCBS Mic will work well also.

Recommended .30 caliber M1 loadings from the NRA

147 - 155 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets
IMR 3031 - 48.0 grains
IMR 4895 - 49.0 grains
IMR 4064 - 50.0 grains
W748 - 48.0 grains
AA2460 - 49.0 grains
AA2520 - 51.0 grains
AA2495 - 50.5 grains
H4895 - 49.0 grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
H335 - 49.0 grains
RL-12 - 48.0 grains


165/168 grain FMJ, HP or SP bullets
IMR 4895 - 47.0 grains
IMR 4094 - 48.0 grains
AA2520 - 47.5 grains
AA2495 - 47.0 grains
H4895 - 47.5 grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
H335 - 47.0 grains
RL-12 - 44.5 grains


173/175-grain FMJ or HPBT bullets

IMR 4895 - 46.0 grains
IMR 4064 - 47.0 grains
AA2460 - 46.0 grains
AA2495 - 46.0 grains
H4895 - 47.0 grains
BLC-2 - 48.0 grains

180-grain FMJ, SP, or HPBT bullets
IMR 4895 - 43.0 grains
AA2460 - 46.5 grains
AA2495 - 45.5 grains
H4895 - 44.0 grains
BLC-2 - 47.5 grains
RL-12 - 41.5 grains
Cases:
*The loads listed above use commercial cases* WW seems to be the best case.

Primers:
I also recommend the use of WW large rifle primers due to the fact that they are almost as hard as mil-spec. The CCI #34 is a mil-spec primer but, it's a MAG primer as well and should be used with ball powder. Federal Gold Medal Match primers are very good primers but, some say they are very soft and should not be used in a "M" gun due to the fact of SLAM FIRES!

Powders:
As far as powders go IMR 4895 and IMR 4064 are great powders to use with the M1 in .30 cal. Some use Varget and VV140 but, your results may vary. A word to the wise: The old rule of thumb on powder is nothing faster than 4895 and nothing slower than 4064. Good words to load by.


Bullets: The 168 Sierra Match King and the 175 Sierra Match King are the two bullets I would look to if I was looking to make "Match" ammo for a 1-10 twist GI rifle. The 168 is a 300-meter bullet with an older designed boat tail. It still works great but, the 175 MK is the way to fly. The BC is something like 19% better and that translates to less knob twisting at 600 yards or so. The 175 Mk is basically a redesigned 173 gr GI match bullet built to stabilize in a 1-12 twist barrel. I would not shoot bullets any heavier than a 175gr in a GI gun that I really cared about. People used to shoot the 180 gr MK but, that's before the 175mk came out.


Match Loads:
The old standard "M72" LC match ammo shoots pretty good in GI rifles and Federal Gold Medal Match shoots really good in some rifles but if you want to come up with a load that shoots like a house afire try these out for size. * I cannot profess to be the guy who came up with these super duty match loads. The M1 has been around a long time now and there really is nothing new as far as loads go. Sure, the VLD bullets and new designer powders have come out and made things better? Right?.......Right. For my money, these will work all day every day. *

175gr MK
WW large Pri
WW case
47gr 4064
3.340 OaL MAX

168 MK
WW Large Pri
WW case
48 4064
3.340 OAL MAX

4895 works just as well in these loads just adjust the charge per the chart above. H4895 never hurt a thing either.

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[Exiledviking]

M1AScoutguy, thanks for that excellent information. I've ordered Hatcher's Garand book.

I've read some posts saying that using a chamber brush after each range session is necessary. Is that really the case? If so, I'll add it to my order of Orion 7 operating rod spring, clip latch spring, and some enbloc clips.

[m1a_scoutguy]

M1AScoutguy, thanks for that excellent information. I've ordered Hatcher's Garand book.

I've read some posts saying that using a chamber brush after each range session is necessary. Is that really the case? If so, I'll add it to my order of Orion 7 operating rod spring, clip latch spring, and some en-bloc clips.

LOL, I'm the wrong guy to ask about cleaning my rifle after every range session! I'll say it probably won't hurt but really, on a serious note, I'll say do as you feel necessary? Now if the rifle is gonna sit or be put away depending on your environment, hot/dry/humid, etc, then yea. Anyways I say yes to having a few chamber brushes on hand for sure, they do a nice job when needed. I have bought from Orion years ago, a good outfit, I have also bought from these guys and they are equally good with zero issues, look compare and go from there. https://ammogarand.com/m1garandoprods.html Good thing about Ammogarand is they tell you if its GI or New Manufacture replacement part, I'm sure Orion does the same but I have not been on his website recently so like I say check them both out. I will say when I do clean my rifles, I just use Hoppes 9 nothing fancy, works good for me, make sure you get a coated rod, more M1s have been ruined with those dam steel cleaning rods than I can imagine. Turn the rifle over so the cleaning solvent doesn't get into the gas cylinder and you'll be good, keep it lubed up and blast away! Have fun and keep us posted on how it all goes.

[Exiledviking]

LOL, I'm the wrong guy to ask about cleaning my rifle after every range session! I'll say it probably won't hurt but really, on a serious note, I'll say do as you feel necessary? Now if the rifle is gonna sit or be put away depending on your environment, hot/dry/humid, etc, then yea. Anyways I say yes to having a few chamber brushes on hand for sure, they do a nice job when needed. I have bought from Orion years ago, a good outfit, I have also bought from these guys and they are equally good with zero issues, look compare and go from there. https://ammogarand.com/m1garandoprods.html Good thing about Ammogarand is they tell you if its GI or New Manufacture replacement part, I'm sure Orion does the same but I have not been on his website recently so like I say check them both out. I will say when I do clean my rifles, I just use Hoppes 9 nothing fancy, works good for me, make sure you get a coated rod, more M1s have been ruined with those dam steel cleaning rods than I can imagine. Turn the rifle over so the cleaning solvent doesn't get into the gas cylinder and you'll be good, keep it lubed up and blast away! Have fun and keep us posted on how it all goes.

Great info, thanks!

[HKGuns]

M1AScoutguy, thanks for that excellent information. I've ordered Hatcher's Garand book.

I've read some posts saying that using a chamber brush after each range session is necessary. Is that really the case? If so, I'll add it to my order of Orion 7 operating rod spring, clip latch spring, and some enbloc clips.

It is a rifle, do as you would any other rifle. There is nothing special about the Garand that requires any different level of care than you would other rifles.

I clean all of my rifles when I return from the range. Not because they need it, because I enjoy keeping them clean. I don't put dirty rifles into my safes.

[Exiledviking]

It is a rifle, do as you would any other rifle. There is nothing special about the Garand that requires any different level of care than you would other rifles.

I clean all of my rifles when I return from the range. Not because they need it, because I enjoy keeping them clean. I don't put dirty rifles into my safes.

Thank you.

[Exiledviking]

Anyone buy a Field Grade Garand from the CMP recently? I'm thinking about buying another Garand and the Field Grade looks like a good deal for a fun range gun. Not shooting competition.
When researching for parts to keep on hand I found that many people offered the very helpful advice; buy a spare Garand. Sounds just like the advice I've gotten here on M4C for close to a decade now. Ha ha.

[m1a_scoutguy]

Anyone buy a Field Grade Garand from the CMP recently? I'm thinking about buying another Garand and the Field Grade looks like a good deal for a fun range gun. Not shooting competition.
When researching for parts to keep on hand I found that many people offered the very helpful advice; buy a spare Garand. Sounds just like the advice I've gotten here on M4C for close to a decade now. Ha ha.

I will never tell someone NOT to buy another M1,(I have 6 ) so yes get one ! BUT my problem is I have enough spare parts to reapir all of them for years to come. Best recommendation I would say is have plenty of Enblocks,a few extra spring SETs, extra bolt guts+2 & just keep tab's on your Op-Rod Tab,LOL There are probably a couple other parts & pieces you could/should have but those are the main ones. They can be pricey but its nice having the gauges for muzzle & chamber wear,but if you know what those are when you start your gonna have to shoot A LOT and get her hot multiple times through many many rds before you will ever have to be concerend. More M1s are always a good thing,LOL

[Exiledviking]

... just keep tab's on your Op-Rod Tab,LOL.

I appreciate the info. I've already ordered more enbloc clips (25 per rifle should suffice, right?), a spring set, and an extra op rod spring from Orion 7. Gonna have to take a look at the bolt parts and springs. I have a firing pin and extractor in the cart already.

$650 for the Field Grade seems like a decent price for a shooter? Hopefully some Service Grade Garands show up in the next 6 -12 months.