I always orient my torque wrench 90 degrees to the barrel nut tool. I haven’t had a barrel come loose yet.
I always orient my torque wrench 90 degrees to the barrel nut tool. I haven’t had a barrel come loose yet.
So recommended torque wrenches are the ones with the dial, not the click ones, right? As you can see, I'm very mechanically inclined.
I have a cobalt so-so torque wrench. But after building a few guns, you don't need the torque wrench unless you were beaten for coloring outside the lines.
Like Iraqgunz used to say... my torque wrench is my arm. (now if I'm working on a more fragile job (non 7000 series upper, and/or non steel barrel nut, i'll get the torque wrench out so I don't gall threads. For real guns, I don't bother.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
It's such a wide torque range, it isn't really critical except at the very bottom.
Normal industry wide SOP is set the torque extender to 90 degrees to avoid the math, or calculate the correction. It's what I've advocated in the past for installing the barrel nut.
However, I've since learned the manual specifies the proper torque is with the correct barrel nut wrench set inline with the torque wrench and the added length is already figured into the torque range. If you have references to the contrary, please share. I don't want to be passing along incorrect data.
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