What Torque Wrench Are You Using?

[STAMarine]

I have a cobalt so-so torque wrench. But after building a few guns, you don't need the torque wrench unless you were beaten for coloring outside the lines.

Like Iraqgunz used to say... my torque wrench is my arm. (now if I'm working on a more fragile job (non 7000 series upper, and/or non steel barrel nut, i'll get the torque wrench out so I don't gall threads. For real guns, I don't bother.

So, you'd think a normal person could do it by feel. I'm working on the first lower I ever built. I did that one by "feel." Now my buffer tube will roll back and forth between two places where I staked the castle nut. It only had about 10k rounds on that lower. A gunsmith I am not. I've built a few since then, and it makes me wonder when they'll let go now.

[TacticalMark]

I use mostly a 3/8dr snap on split beam torque wrench or the digital snap on 3/8dr

[CRAMBONE]

I’ve liked my 1/2” CDI click torque wrench for auto and firearm work. I also have a Wheeler Fat Wrench for quick not so critical work. I’m really wanting to get a set of Fix It Sticks. Other than that I’d look at Snap-On or Proto or other U.S. made click style wrenches. I don’t like twin beam type for numerous reasons. And I’m not sold on the electric type.

[Joe Mamma]

Correct me.

GH41, MistWolf provided the correct information in one of his posts above. The only issue, and I don't think this was mentioned yet in this thread, is that the threads should be lubricated. That also changes the torque rating significantly--not the amount or torque applied, but the amount of tightening of the barrel nut.

I say this is an issue because the use of a thread lubricant is part of the correct way (as per the US Military manual that MistWolf is citing). I believe it is part of the instructions on the page before the page that MistWolf cited, and it says "Apply molybdenum disulfide grease (WP 0045, item 18) to the threads before installation."

There are many different ways to do this, and many of them will work. But if someone is looking for the "correct" way, that is what MistWolf cited.

Joe Mamma

[prepare]

Here's a comparison review of a Snap On and an ICON torque wrench

[MistWolf]

I'm genuinely interested in hearing what Jack has to say. He's very knowledgeable and a good source of the latest info and I am here to learn.

[gunnerblue]

So, you'd think a normal person could do it by feel. I'm working on the first lower I ever built. I did that one by "feel." Now my buffer tube will roll back and forth between two places where I staked the castle nut. It only had about 10k rounds on that lower. A gunsmith I am not. I've built a few since then, and it makes me wonder when they'll let go now.

I use a Snap-on, though I don't think a wrench is absolutely necessary. Like others have said, the torque range is very broad.

Which barrel nut and muzzle device are you using?

[markm]

So, you'd think a normal person could do it by feel. I'm working on the first lower I ever built. I did that one by "feel." Now my buffer tube will roll back and forth between two places where I staked the castle nut. It only had about 10k rounds on that lower. A gunsmith I am not. I've built a few since then, and it makes me wonder when they'll let go now.

I'd re-install that. Stakes will break loose when wrenched off. Re-install with more torque, and re stake.

[STAMarine]

I'd re-install that. Stakes will break loose when wrenched off. Re-install with more torque, and re stake.

I just completed that a couple of evenings ago. Of course, that was still without a torque wrench because I haven't ordered one yet. I'll have one for future builds. When I first started I didn't figure I'd ever build enough to need the proper tools. Hindsight and all that. I've slowly been getting them.

[hk_shootr]

It's such a wide torque range, it isn't really critical except at the very bottom.

Normal industry wide SOP is set the torque extender to 90 degrees to avoid the math, or calculate the correction. It's what I've advocated in the past for installing the barrel nut.

However, I've since learned the manual specifies the proper torque is with the correct barrel nut wrench set inline with the torque wrench and the added length is already figured into the torque range. If you have references to the contrary, please share. I don't want to be passing along incorrect data.

The .mil manual specifies a particular tool, yes the math is included.

HOWEVER, this can’t be used as a general statement. Proper use of an adapter is 90* to the torque wrench or do the math.
37 years in aviation

TA x L L + A = TW