I have always just co-witnessed my visible laser through my optic, using an old license plate as the target, due to the retroreflective nature of license plates, when doing it during the day.
I have always just co-witnessed my visible laser through my optic, using an old license plate as the target, due to the retroreflective nature of license plates, when doing it during the day.
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.
老僧三十年前未參禪時、見山是山、見水是水、及至後夾親見知識、有箇入處、見山不是山、見水不是水、而今得箇體歇處、依然見山秪是山、見水秪是水。
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Thanks for the tip, think I have some old ones kicking around.
Think if I still had my zero at 50y it would have been easier to pick up but out at 100y it was pushing it. Is that just the nature of laser? Or because I'm using a civie model Dbal-D2?
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The down side to using reflective targets is they tend to bloom. IMO a the way is to use a hole. Just one man's opinion.
Gettin' down innagrass.
Let's Go Brandon!
It's just the issue of lighting. With the license plate, I can zero okay with my X400UH with a green laser at 100 yards, when co-witnessing stuff, e.g., co-witnessing my X400UH to my LPVO that is zeroed, then co-witnessing my new piggybacked RMR to the X400UH. Worked splendidly when I confirmed the RMR's zero later with ammo.
Even with my full power laser, the green was not bright enough to pick up on a sunny day, while I could do it on an overcast day; with my X400UH, I do not have the visual acuity to pick up the laser even on cloudy days unless I was using magnification if I was just using plain paper targets. IME, the license plate does not bloom too much at 100 yards when using class 3R visible lasers during the day. At closer ranges or particularly overcast days, it may very well be an issue.
If you have access to the proper places, you could also simply co-witnessing your IR pointer with your optic using passive aiming a night. My pointer has a centerline emitter (more or less), so I don't have to **** with the whole debate about parallel versus converging zeros, but even if I did, I would just do a converging zero, as I don't really see any benefit to a parallel zero if I'm going to be zeroing at 100 yards anyway, while it adds additional complexity into both holds and the zeroing process itself. I was taught that while the converging zero has some merit if one does not have access to longer ranges to zero at (e.g., only 25 yards ranges), for all practical purposes a converging zero and parallel zero will give the same results as long as a reasonable distance is chosen for that convergence (50 yards or more).
Last edited by Defaultmp3; 03-28-22 at 00:40.
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.
老僧三十年前未參禪時、見山是山、見水是水、及至後夾親見知識、有箇入處、見山不是山、見水不是水、而今得箇體歇處、依然見山秪是山、見水秪是水。
https://www.instagram.com/defaultmp3/
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vandal5 I think you have to check sportsmanfinder.com first no need to go with different websites. Just look at https://www.sportsmanfinder.com/hunt...s/night-vision
Suggestions on what to do with these murder spikes that are stabbing me in the face?
The muffs are the Impact Sport, and the attachments are the Unity MARK 2.0.
I was thinking of just bending the into a U shape so they wrap back over the slides. Or just bend them over so they are flat. I know I'd lose a bit of adjustment but they tend to sit just about up all they way and currently I can slide them off very easily.
Thanks!
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Bumping this thread again...
I am in the market for a focusing device for my PVS-14.
What other option are there out there besides Phokus Hoplite and Matbock Tarsier Eclipse.
I have zero experience with either one of the above and have made a home-made version that is not cutting it.
I like the looks of the Tarsier Eclipse but $250 seems a little high for an aperture.
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