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Thread: Cleaning Tips and Tricks

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by JiminAZ View Post
    M-Pro-7, the water based cleaner, is amazingly good at cutting carbon deposits that solvents won't move (or that move marginally with solvent). Stuff amazes me. Way less scrubbing required. Squirt a little on there and let it sit a bit and it will loosen the carbon right up for easy removal.
    It looks like that is less expensive than Mil-Comm MC25 though still not cheap. Have you compared them?

  2. #52
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    Sorry Disciple, haven't compared them. Stuff works so well I've not been motivated to try anything else.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by DG23 View Post
    Which is why I use kerosene. A single gallon will easily clean a hundred AR rifles (or more).

    Soak parts in the can of kerosene, After soaking for a bit brush clean while submerged, Slowly lift parts out allowing the crud to fall back into the can.

    When finished if you set that can of kerosene off to the side and let it sit for a day or so pretty much all of the crud / carbon will fall to the bottom and leave you with clean kerosene on top which can be poured off into a different container long enough for you to then wipe the sediment / gunk out of the can you did your cleaning in with nothing more than a few paper towels. Pour kerosene back into the 'cleaning can' and you are ready to go for the next time with very, very little wasted / lost.

    Kerosene is a very LOW flash point solvent. (meaning - NOT very easy to ignite)
    I am going to try this method. I use it to clean my dirt bike chains and it does an extremely good job at that task.

    I also use M-Pro 7 as my do all CLP.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by lysander View Post
    Pull, don't push.
    Pulling a patch in a slotted tip is a good way to wipe the bore. I'll use a smaller patch and push a wet patch thru though.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  5. #55
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    I will push and pull with a chamber brush or patch. If it's done through the muzzle end (like an M14, M1 Garand, or Carbine) I use a guide and advance it carefully until the entire brush or slotted tip is into the barrel before I apply any significant forward pressure. I use Dewey carbon fiber cleaning rods, so once the brush/tip assembly is clear of the crown I push 'er on through. I'm not as concerned with the motion of pulling it back out as I am pushing it back in.

    On my AR's I use a big white plastic bore/chamber guide (Sinclair?) that has "teeth" on the front like the bolt does and actually locks into the barrel extension.
    11C2P '83-'87
    Airborne Infantry
    F**k China!

  6. #56
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    I’m Old School, I remember using a stripper clip wrapped with a .45 pistol cleaning patch to clean the inside of the bolt carrier on my M16A1.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    I am going to try this method. I use it to clean my dirt bike chains and it does an extremely good job at that task.

    I also use M-Pro 7 as my do all CLP.
    I use old ammo cans and like having the lids. Really easy to drop a BCG or parts down in there, close the lid and walk away for a while. Not much of a smell just sitting there open but the lid makes for no smell in your shop when closed and just soaking parts.

    If you have no old ammo cans to spare you can find new gallon paint cans with lids for cheap at most any paint store. Think it was right around a dollar each last time I bought some.

    The kerosene lasting forever thing works the same for firearms as lacquer thinner in designated cans does for me cleaning spray guns at work. I keep 3 gallon cans for cleaning spray guns. The first can full of thinner for the initial cleaning, the second can full of very clean thinner for rinsing after parts are mostly clean and the third can is empty. When finished I stick the lids back on them and set them to the side. By the next day pretty much all the paint gunk has settled to the bottom of that first cleaning can and there is clear lacquer thinner floating on the top which is then poured off into the empty 3rd can so I can wipe / dump the paint crud out of first can. A few gallons of thinner will last a long, long time and clean multiple spray guns many times each before needing to add more.

    If you want to save even more on your kerosene avoid big box stores like the plague. Yesterday at Tractor Supply Co. they had 5 gal cans of K1 Kero for about 45 bucks each. That is insanely high... I can go right down the street and buy the same kerosene at the pump at a local service station for closer to 3 bucks per gallon.

    Best of luck to you sir.

  8. #58
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    This may raise a few hackles. If I see a lot of lubricant and crud build up in areas I cannot reach with a pick or cotton swab after cleaning the barrel, I use an old school method to reach those areas. I remove the handguards, hang the upper, muzzle down, and pour boiling hot water into the inside of the upper receiver. I also have a metal tube I turned on a lathe that will fit snugly inside the barrel extension for pouring water directly through the chamber and barrel. The hot water evaporates quickly and leaves everything dry. Use compressed air to blow water out of the gas tube and make sure you apply clean lubricant as appropriate.

    If you have a solvent tank, you probably won't need to try this. If you don't want to do this because it's not what the mainstream firearms community does, I understand. I've been using boiling hot water, after allowing oils and solvents to do their jobs, to clean the metal on really filthy firearms for decades.
    Last edited by T2C; 11-25-21 at 08:43.
    Train 2 Win

  9. #59
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    When I was stationed in Panama and we came back from the field and had been firing blanks (which are way worse for crud than live rounds) we'd take the lowers upstairs to the latrine. There were two large utility sinks in there and that water ran HOT, like burn-your-skin-off hot! We'd let them run until steamy and while holding the buttstock stick the lower underneath the scalding water. The heat and force of the water gushing out did a pretty good job of cleaning out every nook and cranny in the lower and it dried almost instantly once removed from the flow of water (you could actually watch it evaporate). The latrines were open-air so that warm tropical air helped with the evaporation. Then we'd take 'em back downstairs and oil them up real good.

    None of the above was technically allowed, and we'd kind of sneak up there to do it! Nonetheless, it made cleaning the lower really quick and easy, and remember these were Q-tip arms room inspections they had to pass.
    11C2P '83-'87
    Airborne Infantry
    F**k China!

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    With a rod, or using a filament?
    With anything.

    Pushing a rod will cause it to bow, and the metal end, be it steel, aluminum or brass, will rub on the bore.

    Pulling keeps everything centered.

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