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Thread: Squib round/Stuck 5.56 bullet

  1. #41
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    Oooh, this happened to by brother in law’s AR once. I ended up having to disassemble the upper to get the barrel into a proper vice, then slowly drilled the primer out, and used a puller and small slide hammer to pull the bulged casing out. Unfortunately, there was damage to the barrel where it looked like the side of the case neck blew out and the bullet did something bad, there was some burned metal like a small torch eating away the metal. A headspace tool wouldn’t fit in the barrel as a quick check so I used a small camera to inspect. I ended up installing a 16” Colt take off.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JiminAZ View Post
    I think I would have been tempted to make some sort of 1/2-28 adaptor for my high pressure grease gun. Maybe a little pre-soak with Kroil. Then fill the bore with oil, attach grease gun and start pumping with the chamber end pointed into a bucket with a decent layer of sand and rags in it. I don't think the bullet would come flying out - as soon is it moves a smidge the pressure goes back to nothing.
    What would you do to stop grease from pushing out the gas port?
    Train 2 Win

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    What would you do to stop grease from pushing out the gas port?
    Pull the FSB/gas block off, then use something like the Black Rifle Disease barrel dimple jig as it has a locator set screw that could be tightened down to block the majority of the grease from escaping.

  4. #44
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    FWIW - i learned that to remove a squib you need a long brass rod of the proper diameter, start with the rod only part way into the barrel - grab the excess protruding from the barrel and basically throw the rod down the barrel striking the nose of the squib - repeat until it’s pushed out. my understanding is that all of the force of the moving rod is transferred to the squib.

  5. #45
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    I really don't think that would have worked on this bullet. I guarantee I transferred some force on this sucker. To some extent, I'd bet that mashing the tip of the bullet back added to the "grip" in the bore.

    I think I'd do the same thing if I had to start all over.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    To some extent, I'd bet that mashing the tip of the bullet back added to the "grip" in the bore.
    This is what the hydraulic method seeks to avoid I believe.

  7. #47
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    Might be a dumb idea, but what about a pencil thin jet of acetylene gas torch on the lead core (but not nearly enough to mess with the temper of the barrel metal) just long enough to deform it and then pound it out? Just lobbing things to see if they stick to the wall... I do similar with a soldering iron all the time. Quick on-and-off to apply a ground without hosing electronics.
    Last edited by Joelski; 01-05-22 at 18:50.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    This is what the hydraulic method seeks to avoid I believe.
    Makes sense, but I wouldn't have the tools/ability to pull that off.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joelski View Post
    Might be a dumb idea, but what about a pencil thin jet of acetylene gas torch on the lead core (but not nearly enough to mess with the temper of the barrel metal) just long enough to deform it and then pound it out? Just lobbing things to see if they stick to the wall... I do similar with a soldering iron all the time. Quick on-and-off to apply a ground without hosing electronics.
    That's essentially what I accomplished by drilling the core out. Bullet material is so soft (relative to barrel steel) that I could feel and hear I wasn't doing damage. Banging out the remaining jacket was what worried me.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

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