Suppressor Length on 10.3 barrel

[a1madrid]

I chose the full size Saker for my 10.3 build, it’s still short and handy. Plus, it helps that much more for flash suppression.

Are you going direct thread on your 10.3 or are you using the quick detach ASR mount? I was probably going to throw whatever can I go with on the ASR muzzle brake. You think with the full size Saker on your 10.3 it is still compact enough for coming around right corners and such?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wake27]

Somewhat relevant:




This was my MK18 MCMR with Sparc Solar shooting 55gr AE ball ammo through KAC QDC suppressor to test zero shift at 50 yds. Shot from prone on a bipod and rear bag. Group one in blue, suppressed. Group two in red, unsuppressed. Group three unmarked, suppressed. Original zero was unsuppressed.

Despite seeing many Internet claims of it, I’ve never been able to get regular 55gr bulk stuff to shoot better than 2 MOA or so and I chose not to use my magnifier for this since the gun wasn’t zero’d with it. I don’t have a measurement frame of reference to run Ballistic-X at the moment but IIRC, that was about 1 MOA shift at most with some beer math on figuring out the center of those gross groups.

While I need to tighten some variables and shoot at 100, I’m very pleased with an apparent minimal AND consistent shift. That was a big part of why I bought KAC.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[okie]

Somewhat relevant:




This was my MK18 MCMR with Sparc Solar shooting 55gr AE ball ammo through KAC QDC suppressor to test zero shift at 50 yds. Shot from prone on a bipod and rear bag. Group one in blue, suppressed. Group two in red, unsuppressed. Group three unmarked, suppressed. Original zero was unsuppressed.

Despite seeing many Internet claims of it, I’ve never been able to get regular 55gr bulk stuff to shoot better than 2 MOA or so and I chose not to use my magnifier for this since the gun wasn’t zero’d with it. I don’t have a measurement frame of reference to run Ballistic-X at the moment but IIRC, that was about 1 MOA shift at most with some beer math on figuring out the center of those gross groups.

While I need to tighten some variables and shoot at 100, I’m very pleased with an apparent minimal AND consistent shift. That was a big part of why I bought KAC.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would repeat that with 10 shot groups on two separate targets. Some other variable is at play with the group in red. Seems the silencer if nothing else makes you shoot tighter groups.

[Wake27]

I would repeat that with 10 shot groups on two separate targets. Some other variable is at play with the group in red. Seems the silencer if nothing else makes you shoot tighter groups.

I will at some point but I’m not too worried about it as it served the purpose of a quick test. Ideally I’d put some magnification on the gun and not be shooting in the snow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[okie]

I will at some point but I’m not too worried about it as it served the purpose of a quick test. Ideally I’d put some magnification on the gun and not be shooting in the snow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I think there's a really good chance that your POI shift is quite a bit less than it looks like on that target at first glance. One thing is for sure, though, your two suppressed groups are way tighter, especially the unmarked one. Hard to say if those to shots on the bullseye in the red group are the actual point of aim or if they were just lucky pulls.

[Wake27]

Yea I think there's a really good chance that your POI shift is quite a bit less than it looks like on that target at first glance. One thing is for sure, though, your two suppressed groups are way tighter, especially the unmarked one. Hard to say if those to shots on the bullseye in the red group are the actual point of aim or if they were just lucky pulls.

That’s a good point as I forgot to mention that it’s not even zero’d for that ammo so I was really looking for the space between the suppressed vs unsuppressed groups vs POI on the target itself. I zero and tend to group with 75gr AE FMJ as it’s close to my 75gr Gold Dot HD load. I need to find more of both those in stock to test as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sni1001per]

I have a Colt M4 and a PSA prem 10.5...the Gemtech Halo II Titanium is configured to mate with any 5.56 A2 BIRDCAGE flash hider. It is heavy use and full-auto rated. Signature is reduced enough that hearing pro is optional, but if it was/is a self-def or fighting platform you will be g2g either way.
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/qBLyPvSQ3Ty2

[Mac Attack]

I started with a Dead Air Nomad on my 10.5” and 12.5” SBRs but the length made it feel long and it was still loud. On the 10.5” my Nomad was not so bad but on my GP 12.5” rifle it felt unbalanced. So I picked up a YHM Turbo K and it the right size for my 12.5. Honestly the difference in sound between the Nomad and TK was not significant enough to make extra length of the Nomad worth it. So I keep my Nomad on my 10.5” and my TK on my 12.5.

[georgeib]

I started with a Dead Air Nomad on my 10.5” and 12.5” SBRs but the length made it feel long and it was still loud. On the 10.5” my Nomad was not so bad but on my GP 12.5” rifle it felt unbalanced. So I picked up a YHM Turbo K and it the right size for my 12.5. Honestly the difference in sound between the Nomad and TK was not significant enough to make extra length of the Nomad worth it. So I keep my Nomad on my 10.5” and my TK on my 12.5.

Did you direct thread the TK or use the QD mount that came with it?

[Mac Attack]

For both my Nomad and Turbo K I am using the YHM Kurz mount. I wanted to keep length aw short as possible and the YHM mount that came with my TK was about an inch+ longer than the Kurz mount.