Interesting...I mainly use Slip2000 but I also use their grease on my ARs, but they are run wet for the most part.
Most handguns get Slip, but the legacy Sigs get Slip and Geissele grease. The GoJuice is too runny. Also run SuperLube and sometimes Clean Break Free and MPro
I also make sure all guns have visible lube and I like to have options...Clenzoil looks interesting...
Ballistol on a patch is handy for cleaning the bore of a muzzle loader without removing the barrel. If I clean a Hawken style rifle, it's easy to remove the barrel and I use a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water like you do. In either case, I lube the barrel with Mobil 1 and remove the oil with isopropyl alcohol before shooting.
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I know a lot of folks use Slip 2000 EWL, but I found the Wilson Combat oils perform better. You can get WC oil to stay put when needed, or flow and creep when needed, depending on which viscosity you use. The WC oil feels slicker when operating the firearm, compared to the EWL.
Some lubes are just that and some are CLP but cleaning alone does not eliminate other things.
For instance try this on your next session.
Shoot ten round groups then clean your barrel with whatever turns you on and shoot the same groups again and see if they group the same. Some lubes are actually too good because if the bullet can't get a grip on the lands it will go straight for a bit and destroy the bearing surface on the bullets until the lube is shot out of the barrel and the group size comes back down.
The WTB at Quantico figured that out quickly in the 80s when CLP came out. It cleaned good but the group sizes were significantly larger and they told me it took over 20 rounds of 7.62 through the Match M14s to burn out the CLP and smaller groups returned.
If you are in a 20 shot match your scope is going to be affected significantly if the lube is too good.
I trained a guy up to be a shooter and we went off to the Army about 1990 and was in put in artillery. He came by to see me and told me the NCOs were going ape because they could not get first round on target with 105s.
I asked him what they were cleaning the barrels with and he said CLP. I told him what I knew and he could not believe it so we went to the range and he shot my rifle he shot before he enlisted and it shot the same. I had him clean barrel with CLP and he shot again and the group really opened up. I told him to keep shooting groups and after about 20 wild shots off call it started grouping again like he knew it should.
He just retired out of the Army and he asked if he could buy the rifle he shot and I sold it to him. He won't be putting CLP in it.
I clean with Ed's Red I make myself. 1/3 Mercon Dexron Transmission Fluid, 1/3 k1 Kersene or off road diesel fuel,and 1/3rd mineral spirits. Been using it 30 years. No rust, no wild shots. I make up 1 1/2 gals at a time. Ed's original formula called for acetone but I get so much on me I did not add the acetone, just the first three.
I use very hot water in the bucket, then dry the bore and lube it lightly with bore butter while its still hot. Might save you that isopropyl removal step, but I’m an occasional Hawken shooter, not an expert. I’m told that bore butter doesn’t have the detrimental effect on powder that regular oils have, and its thick enough to stay put at “comfortable” temps, at least with such a light coating.
I mostly just bore snake my bore (AR15) and leave it alone. If I was really giving it a clean it would get some isopropyl patches.
Clenzoil is great stuff. Been using it for years. That and Break Free CLP/LP also.
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Be advised that bore snakes if not pulled out the muzzle very straight with bore center line can also damage the crown causing the bullet to yaw as it leaves the muzzle. This is why the muzzle erosion gages were fielded by the Civilian Marksmanship program.
https://forums.thecmp.org/archive/in.../t-119773.html
Last edited by Humpy70; 01-21-22 at 02:00.
I wouldn't argue that being a possibility but I would argue to the degree in which it would even matter.
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