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Thread: Question about bolt catch

  1. #11
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    Gotcha. Thanks for the info. Sorry you had to go through that. Did you drill it out at home?

    Quote Originally Posted by ssc View Post
    I believe it was 2016.

    Regards, Steve
    Last edited by captdreifus; 01-18-22 at 15:37.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by captdreifus View Post
    Gotcha. Thanks for the info. Sorry you had to go through that. Did you drill it out at home?
    Yes. It was not difficult. Took measurements first.

    Regards, Steve

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by captdreifus View Post
    Should measure 3/32 or smaller right?also, thanks for the tip
    Yes sir. I prefer the punch tip to be approx. 0.004" - 0.008" smaller than pin hole diameter. Slip the punch in the hole before installing the roll pin to check clearance. It should slide through easily. Before installing the bolt catch pin, I suggest applying a piece of blue masking tape to the side of the receiver to protect it from scratches.

    I had someone bring a lower receiver to me after he tried to build a complete lower with a kit. He complained about the manufacturer making "oversized holes on their junk" receiver. I had him bring me the punches he bought at a home improvement store and watch me check them with a micrometer. He took a perfectly good receiver and turned it into a paperweight using oversize punches. The angry emails and telephone calls to the receiver manufacturer were not justified.

    If you don't own one, pick up a micrometer or caliper. It's really handy to have around when building or reloading.

    It's also easy to mix up the disconnector spring with the bolt catch spring when doing a build. You can perform an internet search for pictures of differences in the springs. If you switch them, that can cause a loose feeling bolt catch.
    Last edited by T2C; 01-18-22 at 16:41.
    Train 2 Win

  4. #14
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    In almost 30 years on the AR platform, that's the first time I've heard of someone doing that.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  5. #15
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    Makes sense…thanks for the tip. Thankfully I do have a few micrometers around.

  6. #16
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    Best tools for installing and removing bolt catch.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yER8NeE5R9U
    Last edited by the AR-15 Junkie; 01-18-22 at 17:55.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by the AR-15 Junkie View Post
    Best tools for installing and removing bolt catch.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yER8NeE5R9U
    I like your recommendations. I have a Brownell's punch I bought years ago, and I can see the advantages to the punch you recommend. In lieu of a roll pin starter punch, I apply a couple of layers of blue masking tape to level the roll pin with the hole in the receiver. If you roll a piece of tape into a loop, you can have the top layer with the sticky side out to keep the roll pin from moving on you while moving the head of the punch into position.
    Train 2 Win

  8. #18
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    So I got the punch set in yesterday and measured the punch which came out to 2.24mm. I got the roll pin drifted enough to take out the bolt catch. Here is the problem...the plunger won’t come out. Any ideas?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by captdreifus View Post
    So I got the punch set in yesterday and measured the punch which came out to 2.24mm. I got the roll pin drifted enough to take out the bolt catch. Here is the problem...the plunger won’t come out. Any ideas?
    That sucks, but I know your pain. I will try to remember all the things I did.

    First try to scrape around the plunger in case of a burr etc and try to pull it out with a dental pick. I tried to get compressed air around it. strike 2. I then put oil, think I used go juice and did the pick routine again. As the oil seeped in, I tried to push it and hope for a hydraulic bounce, then the pick and scrape. I then used the vacuum trick with a shop vac and a piece of screen. I tied the magnet but couldn't pull it out.

    I added more oil and got very aggressive with the bounce and scrape. I got just enough movement to grab it with 2 dental picks and finally got it out. The next trick was going to be a small drill and perhaps grab it within the drilled hole or use a broken bolt removal tool.

    After I removed it, I measured the hole and discovered it was out of spec. I used a drill after measuring numerous other stripped lowers. I can't remember if I used a pin gauge to measure. The hole was the correct depth , but was tapered.

    After I drilled it, I test fit the plunger backwards, so if it was still problematic, I could use needle nose pliers to remove the plunger by the nipple. Based on this experience, before I begin a build, I have added to my checks and measurements, placing a plunger into the recess backwards to check for any issues.

    Good luck and be patient. I often wonder how many people who claim LMT is tier 1, great etc have actually owned an LMT, or had to deal with their CS. Seems to me that most people just regurgitate what they read. This thread explains why I do not hold LMT in high regard and refuse to buy any more of their products. You could call LMT CS. You may get a much better result than I had. However, I say "Lets go LMT!"

    Regards, Steve

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssc View Post
    That sucks, but I know your pain. I will try to remember all the things I did.

    First try to scrape around the plunger in case of a burr etc and try to pull it out with a dental pick. I tried to get compressed air around it. strike 2. I then put oil, think I used go juice and did the pick routine again. As the oil seeped in, I tried to push it and hope for a hydraulic bounce, then the pick and scrape. I then used the vacuum trick with a shop vac and a piece of screen. I tied the magnet but couldn't pull it out.

    I added more oil and got very aggressive with the bounce and scrape. I got just enough movement to grab it with 2 dental picks and finally got it out. The next trick was going to be a small drill and perhaps grab it within the drilled hole or use a broken bolt removal tool.

    After I removed it, I measured the hole and discovered it was out of spec. I used a drill after measuring numerous other stripped lowers. I can't remember if I used a pin gauge to measure. The hole was the correct depth , but was tapered.

    After I drilled it, I test fit the plunger backwards, so if it was still problematic, I could use needle nose pliers to remove the plunger by the nipple. Based on this experience, before I begin a build, I have added to my checks and measurements, placing a plunger into the recess backwards to check for any issues.

    Good luck and be patient. I often wonder how many people who claim LMT is tier 1, great etc have actually owned an LMT, or had to deal with their CS. Seems to me that most people just regurgitate what they read. This thread explains why I do not hold LMT in high regard and refuse to buy any more of their products. You could call LMT CS. You may get a much better result than I had. However, I say "Lets go LMT!"

    Regards, Steve
    Thanks Steve for your input. It is unfortunate that LMT churned out some duds. I did contact them to see what they say as I don’t want to drill it myself (I’m not that proficient with hand drills and I don’t have a press). Might just have a local smith do it, we shall see. I wish I would’ve found out this issue years ago. After looking over my other ARs, only one PSA lower had the same loose tension issue with the bolt catch. All BCMs GTG.

    I will try a little longer to remove the plunger. Wack.

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