Tell me about neck sizing...

[Bimmer]

... please.

I just read the article in the Blue Press about it, so I'm convinced, because

1) I drink blue Kool-Aide, and

2) Dillon doesn't sell neck-sizing dies, and their publication just endorsed their competitors, so I believe it.


TL;DR: I don't want to mess with bushings, but I do want to neck-size for my Savage FCP-SR. What neck-sizing die should I get?


Long version: I've been collecting equipment and components to reload .308 for years (decades, if you count the brass), and I'm finally about to do it. I've been loading handgun cartridges for decades, but that's a different game.

I have a full set of Dillon .308 dies, but I've decided that I'll ONLY be reloading for my Savage (not for my M14-type), and if/when I do want to reload for the M14, then I already made peace with the idea of having a separate set of dies and toolhead for that.

I already have Sinclair's mandrel die and .308 mandrel to set neck tension — my plan was to use no expanding ball or whatever when sizing.

Please advise...

[Bimmer]

I'm not going to turn necks, if that matters. My goal is good precision ammo, but I don't want to go down the precision reloading rabbithole.

Right now the Savage shoots sub-moa with factory match ammo (FGMM, Lapua) if I do my part, and I'd be pleased as punch if my reloads would do the same.


As I understand it, if I can just size the necks and then run the mandrel die through them, then I'm all set...

Right now I'm looking at Lee's suspiciously cheap collet die ($20 retail), and RCBS's neck-sizer (MSRP $45). Lee's undersized (0.3035) mandrel is another $4 or $5.

I see rave reviews about Lee's die, and as I understand it, I wouldn't even need that Sinclair mandrel because the Lee die has a mandrel built in. (I'll save the Sinclair mandrel for when I reload for my M14.)

[TomMcC]

You can neck size with regular dies by backing off the sizing die a bit so the die doesn't contact the shoulder of the case.

[T2C]

I owned a Savage 10 FCP chambered in .308 Winchester for several years. I used a Redding neck sizing die and Imperial dry neck lube with good results.

After several firings, it is not unusual for cases to expand to the point that you will need to full length resize them for them to chamber smoothly.

[HKGuns]

Here you go, since you probably won't believe me, you might believe all of these top shooters. Full length sizing is the better option and all I do.......... Full length size and bump the shoulders back by 2 thousands.

This way your reloads will work in any rifle, which I see as a distinct advantage when you load them right.

[Bimmer]

Here you go, since you probably won't believe me...

I would believe you... What you're saying makes sense.

I watched the video. His points seem to be that

1. Neck-sizing isn't more accurate, and

2. Neck-sizing allows malfunctions due to cases growing.

I'm not expecting better accuracy (neither was the guy who wrote the Blue Press article), and it seems like I would notice pretty quickly if my cases are over-sized and not chambering/extracting easily.

On the other hand, I don't think that needing to lube (and de-lube) cases is going to make my life easier.

[HKGuns]

.........and another one with more than just one opinion.

[markm]

I like the LEE collet neck sizing dies. Least runout of everything I've tried... like .001"-.002". I absolutely had bushing dies, although some guys figure out how to get results with them.

Since we're talking about .308 specifically... I use a body die. And after tumbling off the lube, I neck size and prime. I started out with the Dillon die set hoping to mimic my .223 process, but that didn't work.

[Coal Dragger]

I don’t find lubing and de-lubing to be particularly difficult. I just wet tumble after resizing, trimming, and punching primers out. Warm soapy water, a bit of Lemi-Shine and stainless steel media for an hour after case prep = squeaky clean brass down to the primer pockets ready for final load after they dry.

[Bimmer]

I don’t find lubing and de-lubing to be particularly difficult. I just wet tumble after resizing, trimming, and punching primers out.

Lubing/De-lubing isn't the end of the world (I've done it for .30 Carbine), but if I can avoid it, then all the better.

I'll be doing stainless tumbling, too, but it would be nice to do it right after punching out primers, and then do everything else with clean brass.

Also, the Blue Press article says it's waaay easier to just neck-size in terms of force on the press...