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Thread: Primer showdown: WOLF vs. CCI #41

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    I have a RCBS hand priming tool and I've seen shaved primers when I did not swage the primer pocket a sufficient amount on military brass.

    For the past year or so, I have been using the primer seating feature on my RCBS Rock Chucker IV with good results.
    I do use my Big Boss single stage priming system for 6.5/.308/300WM because I'm collet neck sizing anyway. With .223 I'm usually at the coffee table. I'm eyeballing the RCBS priming tool right now too. I might snatch one next time I have extra cash.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    I can't comment on your Lee crimp die, but
    I ended up pulling my tool head assembly and dripping a few drops of oil (Mobile 1 I think) into the inverted die. It really seems to have helped the collet float better again.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I re-reamed the primer pockets on the LC batch I was working on and it helped, but I STILL have a lot of cup shavings.

    This brass has a generous bevel in the primer pocket, but still getting shavings.
    I have an RCBS primer pocket swage that I've never used because it doesn't work in my Forester press.

    But at the time I bought it it had the advantage of not removing metal from the base, but left a for sure properly sized primer pocket.

    Most of what I've been dealing with lately is the opposite problem, loose primer pockets due to large rifle primers.

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzgauer View Post
    Most of what I've been dealing with lately is the opposite problem, loose primer pockets due to large rifle primers.
    I get that too. I mean, it's not like the 41s are shaving cup material AND fit nice and tight. My normal issue too is loose pockets from hot loads. I now just toss out any piece of brass that decaps with low tension.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  5. #85
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    I use an upgraded aluminum Lee Auto prime, which gives you pretty good sensitivity when seating the primer.

    If it seats with minimal pressure I mark the case and shoot it for plinking. But then discard afterwards.

    I've never had primers fall out with this approach.

    I forgot the name of it but supposedly there's a swager you can get that reworks the head of the case to tighten primer pockets. But it was pretty expensive and really didn't seem worth trying. But if you have unobtainium brass, that may be the path we have to go down.

    With some Lapua being a dollar per case I've started giving my cases individual names and take care of them. :-)

    In Grendel Lapua is small rifle primer and doesn't have near the issue of enlarging the primer pockets.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzgauer View Post
    If it seats with minimal pressure I mark the case and shoot it for plinking. But then discard afterwards.
    I do the exact same thing with a sharpie.

    I've never had primers fall out with this approach.
    Powder lot changes are what kills me on blown primers. I used to almost never have issues with the above method. But lately it's been an annoying issue.

    I forgot the name of it but supposedly there's a swager you can get that reworks the head of the case to tighten primer pockets. But it was pretty expensive and really didn't seem worth trying. But if you have unobtainium brass, that may be the path we have to go down.
    Yeah... for 5.56 brass it's neither worth the time or cost.

    In Grendel Lapua is small rifle primer and doesn't have near the issue of enlarging the primer pockets.
    Yep. That's supposed to be the idea behind those.. in 6.5cm and 308 too. I think I roasted some 6.5cm FC small primer brass the other week though.... Again with hotter powder lot.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzgauer View Post
    I have an RCBS primer pocket swage that I've never used because it doesn't work in my Forester press.

    But at the time I bought it it had the advantage of not removing metal from the base, but left a for sure properly sized primer pocket.

    Most of what I've been dealing with lately is the opposite problem, loose primer pockets due to large rifle primers.
    If you ever use this tool polish the swaging head. If you don't you will stop using this tool in less than 10 pieces of brass. The tool is excellent, but needs to be polished or removing the brass from the swaging bud takes excessive force. Try one case like it comes factory and then polish the swaging bud. The difference is so dramatic its like using a different tool.

  8. #88
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    What are your thoughts on Wolf vs CCI 450 (That's what I ordinarily use)
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    What are your thoughts on Wolf vs CCI 450 (That's what I ordinarily use)
    CCI 450s are the exact same primer as CCI 41s per 2 sources. One of the overlords on Accurateshooter.com was an electrician at the plant where they make the CCI primers... someone else here PM'd me that same info.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  10. #90
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    The anvil on the 41 are spaced just a tad farther but otherwise the same. The milspec calls for a farther distance. But I would guess that they just make them both to milspec and change the label.

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