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Thread: Close Range Training--Steel and Frangible, or Paper?

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    Close Range Training--Steel and Frangible, or Paper?

    What are you guys using for training for close range rifle/carbine shooting--paper targets, or do you shoot steel and use frangible ammo? Most of my rifle shooting is at 100-500m, but I would like to incorporate some up close shooting in to my practice regime. I have been lazy and I pretty much exclusively shoot steel. I'm inclined to believe paper is the better answer just to get better feedback on shot placement--if that's the case, are there any hacks to make dealing with cardboard/paper less annoying?

    Thanks!
    OEF / OIR / OFS

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBAR_94 View Post
    What are you guys using for training for close range rifle/carbine shooting--paper targets, or do you shoot steel and use frangible ammo? Most of my rifle shooting is at 100-500m, but I would like to incorporate some up close shooting in to my practice regime. I have been lazy and I pretty much exclusively shoot steel. I'm inclined to believe paper is the better answer just to get better feedback on shot placement--if that's the case, are there any hacks to make dealing with cardboard/paper less annoying?

    Thanks!
    I like both. Steel for instant gratification, but paper for more cost effective targets and informative runs.
    "It is only the warrior who chooses pacifism. All others are condemned to it."

    "Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem."
    Dangerous Freedom over Peaceful Slavery.

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    I’ve got several steel targets ranging from a 6” round plate to a 2/3 size IPSC shaped plate hanging on my property. I use mainly M193 and shoot those targets from 10 yards to 100 yards regularly with no issue. I hang them with chain so they swing freely when hit, directing the splatter down.
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    9mm SBR with lead/powdercoated ammo.
    RLTW

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    Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.

  5. #5
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    I shoot steel with 5.56 up to 10 yards away with out a second thought.

    I have some frag ammo. It’s best for under 10 yards. I’ll use it at 1 yard even.

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    Steel is great for teaching to get "hits" etc meaning give me three HITS on steel so folks will need to stay on it and get the hits, following up to make sure the threat is down. Paper is great to zero, confirm zero's, scoring, etc.

    The saying goes, "You shoot at steel and aim on paper" Although we all know we are aiming at steel also. Think of it from the standpoint of sight management and trigger control which will increase speed and still get the hit on the prescribed target which should be a realistic sized one relative to range.
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

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    How close is "close range"???
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  8. #8
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    We use combination of both; steel, paper.
    Our steel has an “angled down” bracket that sits on the drive posts.
    Have no trouble ricochet to 20 yds, other than to sides. A cardboard target close to steel can get pretty shredded if it’s placed wrong.
    A true "Gun Guy" (or gal) should have familiarity and a modicum of proficiency with most all firearms platforms.

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    I find it hard to beat white paper plates from the dollar store stapled onto tomato stakes.

  10. #10
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    For steel, the closer I get, the heavier the bullet so there's less velocity. I never shoot an XM193 round at close steel (too hard on the targets)

    Frangible that's good enough to run in a rifle is pretty expensive, so I rarely shoot that. (Used to hand load Barnes frangibles to save money)

    Inside of 7-10 yards, and it's paper time... even with frangibles.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

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