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Thread: safe won't open, answers

  1. #1
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    safe won't open, answers

    So , I have a couple safes but the one I use most is my most expensive and I have had the most problems with my keypad. For my safes amigos, here are a couple tips.

    #1 before you input the code, turn the handle counter clockwise. There is a bar inside the safe that if the handle is leaning on it it won't open.

    #2 it would take me two or three tries to get it to pop open. So I brought out the guy who changed the keypad once before at the tune of about $360. He once again proposed a new keypad but said let me try to change the batteries. I explained I had done that with no luck. He went on to say let me try these Duracell copper top 9vs batteries. I pulled out my premium Energizer MAX that were fairly new. The Duracell made my safe work 100% of time on first try. He went on to say use the Interstate 9v is the highest power batteries via his testing. I just ordered the Interstate off Amazon.

    Also, I tested my Energizeries and they showed mid way through the "good rating". So they were not dead or even close to dead.

    So, before you call out a locksmith, try one of these two sets of batteries and save between $65 and $365 clams.

    PB
    Last edited by Pappabear; 06-23-22 at 15:06.
    "Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pappabear View Post
    Also, I tested my Energizeries and they showed mid way through the "good rating". So they were not dead or even close to dead.
    If it is a voltage issue the Saft LS 9V with 10.8V nominal would help, assuming the equipment can handle it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    If it is a voltage issue the Saft LS 9V with 10.8V nominal would help, assuming the equipment can handle it.
    Thats above my pay grade, I just do what Im told when it works. But might be a good idea, never seen Saft batteries.

    PB
    "Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"

  4. #4
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    I remember my dear old dad couldnt get his Winchester safe open...tried & tried. I cant remember the details but it took a TON of comm back & forth with them and I think they finally months later sent someone out to open it.
    Burnt me on electronic locks.
    PB..are you dead set on electronic locks? Can anyone tell me how/why Im wrong on not wanting one on my next safe? Been looking lately.
    The obedient always think of themselves as virtuous rather than the cowards they really are.

  5. #5
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    I have a winchester and ran into the same problem the other day. I put my code in, nothing. tried several times and never got the lockout beeps. I got worried that i had changed my code and forgot the new one, so I tried another one and got the incorrect code beeps. I then noticed that I wasn't hearing the click of the solenoid to release the lock when I input my correct code even though the beeps were correct. I changed out for a new battery and bam! it opened fine. I think too low of voltage, the keypad works, but it can't power the solenoid to open the lock. I like the speed and access of my electronic lock for everyday use, but my other safe we have a combo lock. Combo locks can fail as well or get gummed up too so they aren't the end all be all answer either.

  6. #6
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    I've recently been looking for options to secure a rifle in my truck, in my city the largest safe store is run by a locksmith family of some 100 years. While there we got to talking about residential gun safes and they said hands down the most problems they have are with electronic locks, something like 50 to 1. They had I would guess close to 100 safes in the store and almost all were mechanical, they said the only kept a few electronic ones for customers with disabilities that made working a tumbler difficult. I know that doesn't help you now, but they did say that on many newer safes with electronic locks they can replace it with a mechanical one.

  7. #7
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    Straightshooter, my guy also said they are making some new electronics cheaper and suck worse than old ones. I think mechanical are more reliable but one I have and its like opening rubrics cube every time. But I guess if I did it more I’d be better.

    So it just a convenience factor. Out of 4 safes I’ve only had the issue with one.

    SS, I would be comfortable with either Mechanical or Electronic. Its a coin toss it just sucks they are cutting corners these days.

    PB
    Last edited by Pappabear; 06-26-22 at 19:36.

  8. #8
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    With the exception of StackOn and some Winchester safes, most electronic locks can be swapped for mechanical and vice versa. I prefer mechanical locks but there is no contest when it comes to convenience.

    Andy

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty T View Post
    I've recently been looking for options to secure a rifle in my truck, in my city the largest safe store is run by a locksmith family of some 100 years. While there we got to talking about residential gun safes and they said hands down the most problems they have are with electronic locks, something like 50 to 1. They had I would guess close to 100 safes in the store and almost all were mechanical, they said the only kept a few electronic ones for customers with disabilities that made working a tumbler difficult. I know that doesn't help you now, but they did say that on many newer safes with electronic locks they can replace it with a mechanical one.
    I 100% get this, but I also have to think most safes are sold 1,000 to 1 with electronic keypads. So they are going to have more problems due to the numbers. If I had my druthers, I'd have more mechanical due to my experience. But a simple one like a master lock we used in high school, 40 years ago. Not this rotate 2X then go over.....

    PB
    "Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"

  10. #10
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    I'm currently shopping for a safe and looking for an option with a keypad and a key backup.

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