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Thread: AERO .308 Short Stroke Specifics & Symptoms:

  1. #11
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    The Armalite AR10 extension with the Armalite AR10 spring, and H3 buffer is correct. Don’t install a shorter spring and buffer in that extension, as it is too short and may cause damage to your bcg and receiver.

  2. #12
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    Ran in between granddaughters soccer games and confirmed it locks back on an empty mag. Its an AERO bolt. New but for maybe 25 rounds. I’ll pull and check obstruction in the key when I get home again.

    As for the tube, bear with me here since I have only built four and this one was my first… but if the pin is in the gas block and the block properly at 12 o’clock, and the gas tube isn’t upside down, and the barrel nut torqued so there is no obstruction as it enters the upper, I have to be good, right?

    Like I said, I’ll check when I’m back. Thnx!

  3. #13
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    Hammer Man, Thanks for the caution!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SgtDog0311 View Post
    Ran in between granddaughters soccer games and confirmed it locks back on an empty mag.
    That confirms you don't have an m4 /ar-15 spring rather than a AR-10 spring. (Very common mistake even in tube kits sold for ar-10s.) M4 spring looks ok, but will not lock back as it cant compress enough.

    Have you tried compressed air into the bulb end of the gas tube and listen / feel for it to come out the barrel? (Or spray lube) That will only confirm you don't have a total blockage, but unless your gas block is off center it would be very difficult to have a partial blockage normally.

  5. #15
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    I didn’t have any weedeater strand but slipped an micro applicator oil-tube about the same size down the gas key. At just under an inch it clicked past what felt like a choke point another eighth or so. With a flashlight it appears clear of restriction.

    I’ll have to order a gas block, crush washer and roll pin if I get there but in thinking on that I wondered if the ports for a AR-15 and AR-10 are the same. Fishing around I didn’t determine that but looked like the ports on the barrels were not significantly different.

    So then reviewed the Superlative directions and see this: “ Carefully slide the gas block towards the barrel shoulder, allowing for a .025” gap between the shoulder and the back of the block (use feeler gauges)”. Well I’m tearing the garage up looking for my feeler gauge now but appears to my old eyes I’m up against the shoulder. You figure that could be my problem??

  6. #16
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    I can't say for sure whether the incorrect gas block installation will cause the problem, but it should be remedied regardless.

    It seems that this gas block is secured with set screws. Is your barrel dimpled? If it is, then put the set screw into the dimple and test again.
    Last edited by grizzman; 07-16-22 at 17:37.

  7. #17
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    Its a clamp-on style. I’ll likely pull it eventually but till I order a set-screw style gas block, roll pin and new crush washer, I’m curious and may go to the range first with the correct spacing. But in keeping with the recommendations here I’ll replace, then do as you say. I can’t recall if its dimpled but I’ll find out shortly, and if so do like you say. My last AR-15 was not adjustable and I was tickled my brass all landed such that a 3lb coffee can might have caught them all. Function was night and day from this first build.
    At any rate, appreciate the advice that led me to the other end instead of the buffer.

  8. #18
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    When you get everything apart, it would be a good idea to run a long pipe cleaner through the gas tube to check for obstructions.

  9. #19
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    I’ll buy some pipe cleaners. Thanks.
    Btw, i removed the block to slide it back the .025. Centering it left & right seems to leave a little room for being off-center with the clamp-on style. I think I went that route back when I did this first build because I read about distortion. Probably overthinking and reading too much internet-gospel! So far with three others I had no issues with set-screws. I did find the Criterion barrel has one dimple so that will be a help for locating the replacement when I get there. Even if it functions correctly when I get to the range I’m tempted to replace it.
    Is AERO as good as any for a gas block?

  10. #20
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    Did you ever check the diameter of the gas port in the barrel. Your recoil system is good, which leaves the gas system as the culprit. Even with the gas block wide open, if you don't get enough gas down the tube you will never "have enough gas to move the mass" of the BCG. Barrel manufacturers routinely drill 308 AR barrels too small. Do not assume it is the right size!
    From this page: https://forum.308ar.com/topic/15037-...338260243-etc/
    DPMS LR-308 Style Rifle
    barrel gas caliber port size
    18" rifle 0.308 0.0960"

    Measure your gas port and I'de bet its too small. It needs to be .0960"

    For THE MOST accurate info on any make/model of 308AR get over to the 308AR forum. No bullsh*t and solid info. There is no such thing as milspec in the 308 AR world and manufacturers can make any part any size they want out of any material they want and claim its proper for these bigger cousins.

    Your buffer weight should be in the 5.3-5.4oz range.

    Fired empty cases dribbling out, and failing to pick up and feed the next round is an indicator of not enough gas getting to the BCG.
    If your gas tube ends in the middle of the cam pin cut out then the tube is the right length. (rules out bad gas tube)
    If your gas block is wide open and clear of obstructions thats good to go. Play with settings once the rifle functions properly. (rules out bad gas block)
    If your gas port is too small, neither one of those good parts make a hoot of difference. Your rifle isn't going to function properly even if you have the best buffer tube/system installed.

    An excellent read on the subject. https://forum.308ar.com/topic/16799-...buffer-weight/
    Last edited by dpete; 07-17-22 at 20:18.

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