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Thread: Latest 223 Wylde Build

  1. #11
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    Latest 223 Wylde Build

    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    Did you go with the 1:7 or 1:8 twist SPR barrel? What loads did you shoot?
    1/7 twist on this barrel and I shot two different loadings of 77gr SMK's and one load using 55 gr Barnes bullets after neither of the 77gr loads produced results.

    These loads aren't "world class" but easily shoot sub-moa in my 16" chrome lined combat style barrels and Wilson Combat barrels.

    On the positive side, it cycled and functioned flawlessly.

    I just removed the FH and the crush washer had to be screwed off the end of the barrel. Never had to do that before so Iím a thinkin that was the issue. Will try another FH I have inbound tomorrow to see if it times better. Regardless, I will stop on the less torquey end of the spectrum and buy a FH that times properly in any position if necessary.
    Last edited by HKGuns; 09-18-22 at 11:19.

  2. #12
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    I would buy a Smith Enterprises Vortex if I was concerned about the muzzle device affecting accuracy. I'd also use Surefire Shims, or at worst Precision Armament Accu-Washers.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    1/7 twist on this barrel and I shot two different loadings of 77gr SMK's and one load using 55 gr Barnes bullets after neither of the 77gr loads produced results.

    These loads aren't "world class" but easily shoot sub-moa in my 16" chrome lined combat style barrels and Wilson Combat barrels.

    On the positive side, it cycled and functioned flawlessly.

    I just removed the FH and the crush washer had to be screwed off the end of the barrel. Never had to do that before so I’m a thinkin that was the issue. Will try another FH I have inbound tomorrow to see if it times better. Regardless, I will stop on the less torquey end of the spectrum and buy a FH that times properly in any position if necessary.
    You might consider shooting groups before installing the new flash hider.
    Train 2 Win

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    You might consider shooting groups before installing the new flash hider.
    I did consider it and since you suggest it also, I donít consider it a another one of my crazy ideas.

    I will do that on my next trip to the range.

  5. #15
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    May I ask why you went with a Wylde chamber?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunnerblue View Post
    May I ask why you went with a Wylde chamber?
    Because it isnít as sloppy as a 556 NATO chamber and this was supposed to be a precision rifle.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    I did consider it and since you suggest it also, I don’t consider it a another one of my crazy ideas.

    I will do that on my next trip to the range.
    I've fired without a flash hider attached to a new match barrel to determine how the attachment affects accuracy. If a crush washer is used, I've seen a noticeable difference in accuracy at 300 yards.

    Applying torque to a muzzle device on a barrel is like hanging a paper clip on a tuning fork IMHO. It can change things.
    Train 2 Win

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    I've fired without a flash hider attached to a new match barrel to determine how the attachment affects accuracy. If a crush washer is used, I've seen a noticeable difference in accuracy at 300 yards.

    Applying torque to a muzzle device on a barrel is like hanging a paper clip on a tuning fork IMHO. It can change things.
    How do you protect the threads?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    How do you protect the threads?
    Biggest thing is to make sure the threads are clean before attempting to install anything, especially on stainless steel which can gall. I’ve only used stainless flash hiders on stainless barrels as well. Make sure the threads line up before attempting to thread the MD on, you can do this by turning the MD in reverse until you feel the threads seat to the barrel threads. If you don’t plan to mount a suppressor to your MD, then you can apply a thin lubricant (CLP, WD-40) to the threads before installing. My rule of thumb is 20-25 ft lbs of torque on the MD.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    How do you protect the threads?
    I don't. Carbon deposited on exposed threads after firing 35 rounds is negligible. I shoot the rifle before attaching a flash hider, then compare groups to those fired after the flash hider is installed. It's something I started doing after I saw tight groups at 300 yards with a post ban match barrel sans flash hider back in the 1990's. 10 shots per group is my standard. I shoot 5 warm up rounds, then 3 separate 10 shot groups with a warm barrel at 300 yards. The average group size is entered in my rifle log and the process with flash hider attached gets repeated every 2,500 rounds on a match rifle.

    When attaching a flash hider to a match barrel, I apply blue Loctite and screw the flash hider on finger tight. If consistent sub 3/4 MOA groups are not necessary, I attach the flash hider using a peel washer and torque to 10 Ft. Lbs. A witness mark is scribed on the flash hider underneath the barrel and it gets checked frequently.

    John Holliger sells good barrels. Yours should shoot.
    Train 2 Win

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