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Thread: Annealing Rifle Brass, again...

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Exactly. Getting the brass wet is just another ass ache to deal with because the pockets and interior take forever to dry out.
    Which is exactly why I use a mix of walnut and corncob media. I have zero interest in wet tumbling.

  2. #12
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    You are correct. Been a few years since metallurgy class. Quenching steel is part of heat treating and hardening, annealing is tempering it. My disc skipped on that one.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Which is exactly why I use a mix of walnut and corncob media. I have zero interest in wet tumbling.
    I use both. Wet is a pain, but it works way better for carbon and dirt/mud on/in the cases. But I jump back into walnut for case lube removal. Some guys use wet for both, and don't have a dry tumbler.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    ... use the annealing to dry my brass after SS media tumble.
    Oh, that's genius...

    It's this kind of thing that keeps me coming back here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    Oh, that's genius...

    It's this kind of thing that keeps me coming back here.
    Yeah. I was dry tumbling for an hour after wet just to dry the stuff. Now I go straight to the torch. Then when the necks are not too hot, I tip the brass on the side so the remaining water in the primer pocket airs out.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Yeah. I was dry tumbling for an hour after wet just to dry the stuff. Now I go straight to the torch.
    No joke, I had an old toaster oven that I was going to set up as a dryer... You've just saved me that bother.

    I'll be back in Arizona the first week of March. I think I owe you a case of beer (not just for this thread).

  7. #17
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    While I have you guys here... What's your temperature goal for annealing?

    I've read on the errornet that ≈700-750°F is ideal, but AMP seems to say here that they're getting necks to 1,000+°F, at least for a moment. See halfway down this page, or the attached table:

    https://www.ampannealing.com/article...he-microscope/

    Screen Shot 2022-11-29 at 6.28.26 PM.png


    If I'm understanding the process correctly, the danger isn't overheating the neck as much as making sure that the body and head do NOT get hot (≈450°F) at all:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1QZfqZRn2Q

  8. #18
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    Annealing Rifle Brass, again...

    I think you are looking for color. Watch this short video to see if it helps. I didn’t anneal prior to the amp.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/guwciL5gwDA?feature=share

    BTW: There is something very satisfying about freshly well rolled rounds.

    Last edited by HKGuns; 11-29-22 at 21:10.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    I think you are looking for color. Watch this short video to see if it helps. I didn’t anneal prior to the amp.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/guwciL5gwDA?feature=share

    Yeah, I saw Cortina's video. I'm unsure, but elsewhere on the errornet people say that if the flame goes orange, then the zinc or tin is cooking out of the brass (and that's bad).

    I guess I'll get some 750°F Tempilaq and play with that...

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    Yeah, I saw Cortina's video. I'm unsure, but elsewhere on the errornet people say that if the flame goes orange, then the zinc or tin is cooking out of the brass (and that's bad).

    I guess I'll get some 750°F Tempilaq and play with that...
    Probably smart until you get your process nailed. Mark may have a system he uses with his hand process.

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