not cycling

**hoopharted** · 12-30-22, 14:36

put the final touches on the .223 wylde rifle last night , took it out for a test run a few minutes ago and not cycling , has a superlative arms gas block , i started shut , then 2 click increments until wide open and no joy

rifle length gas , 20 inch barrel , standard buffer , bolt racks and ejects fine with charging handle , see carbon in the gas tube , nickle boron bolt with really only carbon on the face , well lubed , strips new round and loads fine when racking charging handle

thinking maybe im off on my gas port alignment even though i thought i took great care in aligning

first complete build from scratch

on a plus side while i was adjusting the gas block i was sighting in the scope , just off a bag i was getting 2 inch at 50 yards , when i get it cycling i will strap it in a lead sled and see what it does without my old eyes as a factor

i figured given i was using a adjustable gas block a standard buffer was good to go

**1168** · 12-30-22, 14:38

Does it even try to cycle, or does the bolt stay locked?

**OutofBatt3ry** · 12-30-22, 14:50

All new parts? It's helpful if you can get a buddy to watch what the action is doing while shooting. Assuming it's a gas issue, it's pretty east to troubleshoot.

Check the gas key hardware, make sure it's tight. I've seen new BCG's with broken hardware right out of the box (Never again will I use a $59 no-name BCG). If you have a bore scope, it's easy to check your gas block alignment. I was lucky on first couple builds but it was always in the back of my mind.

I use an SLR dimple tool now, well worth the money, even if you only use it once, but between all my builds and lending it out, it's been used about 20 times.

You need to remember, the gas port is drilled in a spot to allow use of a standard GI hand guard retainer, meaning, if the gas block is set all the way back against thicker part of the barrel, it's a few thou too far back and if the barrel already has a gas port that's smallish, that can cause an issue.

With that being said, the port on the gas block itself is usually the size of a manhole cover, so even it's off just a hair, it usually won't cause an issue, but I have seen issues with blocks that were obviously off due to improper installation of failing to tighten the block enough.

**hoopharted** · 12-30-22, 15:02

Originally Posted by OutofBatt3ry

All new parts? It's helpful if you can get a buddy to watch what the action is doing while shooting. Assuming it's a gas issue, it's pretty east to troubleshoot.

Check the gas key hardware, make sure it's tight. I've seen new BCG's with broken hardware right out of the box (Never again will I use a $59 no-name BCG). If you have a bore scope, it's easy to check your gas block alignment. I was lucky on first couple builds but it was always in the back of my mind.

I use an SLR dimple tool now, well worth the money, even if you only use it once, but between all my builds and lending it out, it's been used about 20 times.

You need to remember, the gas port is drilled in a spot to allow use of a standard GI hand guard retainer, meaning, if the gas block is set all the way back against thicker part of the barrel, it's a few thou too far back and if the barrel already has a gas port that's smallish, that can cause an issue.

every part and screw,and spring is brand new , the bolt is a Aero precision Nickle Boron

i new about the .025 gap for the shoulder , but did not pay that any mind since it was a fluted stainless barrel i figured they assumed it would be a FF hand guard

i will tinker with it this weekend moving the gas block forward and making sure it is centered , i will get my neighbor to see if its trying to cycle but its not , i was using green tip ammo

if i were a betting man my money is on mis aligned port issue do to cranking that gas block wide open did nothing , im getting some gas because the tube has carbon in it , im probably half on or less

thanks for the fast responses

**hoopharted** · 12-30-22, 14:54

Originally Posted by 1168

Does it even try to cycle, or does the bolt stay locked?

it tried to cycle once , i put maybe 30 rds through it

**markm** · 12-30-22, 14:56

Can you see the block is still in position? I had one walk on me when I didn't dimple the barrel for the set screw once.

**hoopharted** · 12-30-22, 15:06

Originally Posted by markm

Can you see the block is still in position? I had one walk on me when I didn't dimple the barrel for the set screw once.

my gas block is exposed right at the end of the handguard , i wanted the last portion of the fluted barrel exposed

**georgeib** · 12-30-22, 15:27

Honestly even if you pushed the gas block all the way up against the shoulder, the orifice in the block itself is generous enough for this not to matter. My tendency is to look at two areas to start off with. First make sure that the gas block is centered over the gas port laterally, and second make sure that nothing is blocking the gas key on the carrier by pushing a piece of trimmer line down the gas key until it appears inside the carrier bore.

Then I would try to make sure that the gas key is properly fastened to the carrier. If you have an inch pounds torque wrench, set it to 40 inch pounds and try to tighten the gas key screws. Then set it to 30 inch lbs and try to loosen them. If the screws move, you've likely got a broken screw.

ETA: If you don't have a bore scope, and don't feel like ordering one, you can check gas block to port alignment by removing the gas block, marking a couple pencil lines on the barrel inline with either edge of the gas port, and then lining up the gas block laterally using those lines. The longitudinal alignment can be verified with a caliper. Measure the distance inside the gas block from the rear most portion of the gas orifice, and then on the barrel measure the distance from the rear edge of the gas block to the barrel shoulder.

ETA2: Does the barrel have a dimple at the bottom for the gas block screw?