not cycling

[HKGuns]

For troubleshooting purposes, do you have a standard gas block you can temporarily swap in?

Great suggestion.

[jackblack73]

Have you checked the gas rings on the bolt?

[One More Time]

Tear it back down and start over.

I check headspace before doing anything.
No need to go any further if that doesn't check out.

Gas port drilled all the way through?
Easy to check with the pin gauge you used to check the gas port size with. Which should be around .093"

Gas block clear?
Dimple barrel and install.

Gas tube clear and no defects?

Check BCG before assembly.
Rings installed?
Gas key clear and hardware tight and staked?
Is it in spec?

While assembling an AR is pretty simple there is a bit more to it than just opening the package and putting it together.
Much easier to trouble shoot when you know all the variables.

I would opt for a rifle action over carbine and not fool around with an adjustable gas block.
If you are wanting a collapsible stock use an A5 action.
Vltor and BCM have them and it seems to be easier now to get buffers and such.

[AndyLate]

While I don’t disagree, I think you start at the gas block, especially if the barrel wasn’t dimpled.

My next step would be to check the gas key for leaks, however, on a first build, how likely is that actually?

I would confirm the gas key is not blocked (blow through it) and then do the same with the gas block/gas tube.

You are using a rifle length gas tube, right? It should protrude into the upper receiver far enough to mate with the gas key on the bolt carrier. It may be worthwhile to remove the upper, pull the bolt out of the carrier and confirm the gas key is sliding over the gas tube.

Not cycling at all requires a pretty major problem; barrel gas port and gas block severely misaligned, gas tube too short or blocked, gas key blocked, or a severe gas leak.

Andy

[hoopharted]

new wrinkle , got some time this morning to sit down with it , decided to remove the gas block and redo the installation procedure,and dimple the barrel , i blue lock tited the set screws when i assembled the rifle thinking i wanted to be methodical so nothing was missed , i hind sight i should have function tested first

while removing the screws one came out fine , one did not , snapped the tip of my allen wrench off in the screw and the broken piece is not coming out , so im going to have to drill it out with the drill press and get a new set screw, i ordered a whole new gas block in case i booger it up and have to re drill that hole and tap it one size up for a bigger set screw ,i torqued them to 30 in pds

as i said my gas block sits directly at the end of the handguard , so i can use this one on the Wilson Combat set i have which i will be doing a mid length gas on if i have to retap it after drilling the set screw , those were wheeler allen wrenches , not happy

i had to walk away from it ears were ringing from the blood pressure

i did my home work before doing this , i admit i totally forgot to dimple the barrel , i knew about that , guess i was getting excited as it was shaping up , i did not lose a spring or detent while assembling , and then this

[grizzman]

What barrel doesn’t have a simple? That’s ridiculous!!

Your only reference point is the gas port, so you should buy a jig that indexes off the port for the simple locations…like the BRDs.

I agree that positioning the gas block against the barrel shoulder is unlikely to block enough of the gas port to be the cause of the failures. Something else is wrong. .

[HKGuns]

What barrel doesn’t have a simple? That’s ridiculous!!

Your only reference point is the gas port, so you should buy a jig that indexes off the port for the simple locations…like the BRDs.

I agree that positioning the gas block against the barrel shoulder is unlikely to block enough of the gas port to be the cause of the failures. Something else is wrong. .

BA don’t have dimples.

[hoopharted]

Tear it back down and start over.

I check headspace before doing anything.
No need to go any further if that doesn't check out.

Gas port drilled all the way through?
Easy to check with the pin gauge you used to check the gas port size with. Which should be around .093"

Gas block clear?
Dimple barrel and install.

Gas tube clear and no defects?

Check BCG before assembly.
Rings installed?
Gas key clear and hardware tight and staked?
Is it in spec?

While assembling an AR is pretty simple there is a bit more to it than just opening the package and putting it together.
Much easier to trouble shoot when you know all the variables.

I would opt for a rifle action over carbine and not fool around with an adjustable gas block.
If you are wanting a collapsible stock use an A5 action.
Vltor and BCM have them and it seems to be easier now to get buffers and such.

i replied to this but for some reason it did not post

i checked the head spacce wit Go and NoGo gauges before i ever loaded a round , it was good to go

before i installed the gas block , with the tube installed i opened the gas block and blew through the tube it was fine

gas keys are fine , and properly staked

as for the dimpling , i knew about it but i slipped on that , i think it was coming together and i just forgot

[georgeib]

Are you sure the gas port is drilled all the way through? Easy way to check is to shine a light down the bore and see if you can see straight down the port to the rifling.

[hoopharted]

have the gas block off and yes its drilled through

have a new gas block and a bore light inbound so its on hold until later in the week

i will use this on the mid length gas build i will do with the wilsn combat set i have