Glock Performance Trigger

[jsbhike]

Personally I hate the rolling break in a Glock trigger, but from what I've read it's impossible to eliminate it and still maintain a good level of safety against accidental discharges from drops, etc. That's why all the aftermarket triggers out there still have the rolling break.

Is it eliminating the firing pin safety?

[SteveL]

Is it eliminating the firing pin safety?

I don't think so.

[jsbhike]

I don't think so.

I sure could be missing something, but unless the firing pin safety is getting bypassed it shouldn't be able to fire from being dropped.

Obviously having the trigger fail to retain the striker isn't ideal, but the firing pin safety shouldn't allow anything to happen.

[silvery37]

It does not eliminate the firing pin safety. There’s also a hook that should prevent the sear from releasing the striker until the trigger begins to move to the rear. Aka the striker should not be able to be released from dropping the pistol.


I qualified these statements with “should” because if you look at the design of the trigger it’s pretty obvious how it’s made to stop the sear from moving down. I’ve also read about someone who was able to physically force the sear down and get it to release. These aren’t fitted parts and there is some play in the system. My guess is that you could force the sear down with a punch or something similar by bending or flexing the components. But this force is not something that could ever be replicated by dropping or hitting the pistol.

[SteveL]

I sure could be missing something, but unless the firing pin safety is getting bypassed it shouldn't be able to fire from being dropped.

Obviously having the trigger fail to retain the striker isn't ideal, but the firing pin safety shouldn't allow anything to happen.

It does not eliminate the firing pin safety. There’s also a hook that should prevent the sear from releasing the striker until the trigger begins to move to the rear. Aka the striker should not be able to be released from dropping the pistol.


I qualified these statements with “should” because if you look at the design of the trigger it’s pretty obvious how it’s made to stop the sear from moving down. I’ve also read about someone who was able to physically force the sear down and get it to release. These aren’t fitted parts and there is some play in the system. My guess is that you could force the sear down with a punch or something similar by bending or flexing the components. But this force is not something that could ever be replicated by dropping or hitting the pistol.

Sorry I'm trying to recall something I read quite a while back. I could be remembering it wrong. The thing that stuck out at me the most was that a Glock trigger would always have a rolling break vs. a wall due to the geometry of the trigger bar and the parts it interfaces with, and something about a reduction in safety if the geometry was modified in a way that would produce a wall type break. Again I could be completely wrong.

[jsbhike]

It does not eliminate the firing pin safety. There’s also a hook that should prevent the sear from releasing the striker until the trigger begins to move to the rear. Aka the striker should not be able to be released from dropping the pistol.


I qualified these statements with “should” because if you look at the design of the trigger it’s pretty obvious how it’s made to stop the sear from moving down. I’ve also read about someone who was able to physically force the sear down and get it to release. These aren’t fitted parts and there is some play in the system. My guess is that you could force the sear down with a punch or something similar by bending or flexing the components. But this force is not something that could ever be replicated by dropping or hitting the pistol.

Should is key.

I do recall hearing about occasional early Glocks firing during loading, but that seems to have been worked out 30+ years ago.

[The Dumb Gun Collector]

I installed one of these in My G19 and took it out today. The install was absurdly easy. Punch out pins, fish out ambi lever and block, drop in new unit, put in ambi levers and block, plus pins...done. Five minutes max. Probably 3 minutes if you have a second gun to swap one into.

It improved the weight of the trigger. It is almost exactly 4 lbs now. I would say it is the general VP9/PPQ class now. I shot 150 rounds of ball FMJ and it ran perfectly.

I paid $60 from Botach and it definitely seems worth the price (even at 99). The install is SO easy and the peace of mind of having factory parts is nice.