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Thread: Pin and weld: shims or crush washer

  1. #21
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    I’ve mentioned it before. But in a, “it happened to me story” I sent a barrel off to a reputable smith to get pin and welded. When I got it back I ran a suppressor rod through it and noticed it was not concentric. Like near baffle strike off. Sent it off to a different smith to get corrected and learned the barrel was cut correctly. It was the shims that were misaligned. Surefire muzzle device with Surefire shims. If I had to guess I’d say he just didn’t follow the Surefire instructions using the shims. Or the shims could’ve been defective.

    Moral of the story, have them check with a suppressor rod first if you’re going to be using a suppressor. When I asked the original smith why he didn’t check he said he lives in a no suppressor state and thereby doesn’t have access to any.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Vaquero View Post
    I’ve mentioned it before. But in a, “it happened to me story” I sent a barrel off to a reputable smith to get pin and welded. When I got it back I ran a suppressor rod through it and noticed it was not concentric. Like near baffle strike off. Sent it off to a different smith to get corrected and learned the barrel was cut correctly. It was the shims that were misaligned. Surefire muzzle device with Surefire shims. If I had to guess I’d say he just didn’t follow the Surefire instructions using the shims. Or the shims could’ve been defective.

    Moral of the story, have them check with a suppressor rod first if you’re going to be using a suppressor. When I asked the original smith why he didn’t check he said he lives in a no suppressor state and thereby doesn’t have access to any.
    he didnt at least have a rod or a dowel?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidneyious View Post
    he didnt at least have a rod or a dowel?
    You would think. I was pretty perplexed by his response.

  4. #24
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    I spent over an hour today dealing with this mess. I removed the SFCT that came on my Geissele 11.5 to put on a 14.5 and replace it with an SF4P for the labyrinth seals. I went through the entire Accu-washer kit repeatedly, and had it narrowed to two consecutive notches (two large notches or one large notch and four small) and one was over-timed and one was under-timed. I also had the SF shim kit that came with the MD and couldn't get it to line up perfectly with that either. I ended up having to mix two large ones from the new kit plus three tiny ones that I pulled off when I removed the closed tine. Super annoying but at least the 4P timed perfectly at 20 ft pounds. I'm less impressed with the Accu-washer kit. I'll probably stick with SF from now on.
    Sic semper tyrannis.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wake27 View Post
    I spent over an hour today dealing with this mess. I removed the SFCT that came on my Geissele 11.5 to put on a 14.5 and replace it with an SF4P for the labyrinth seals. I went through the entire Accu-washer kit repeatedly, and had it narrowed to two consecutive notches (two large notches or one large notch and four small) and one was over-timed and one was under-timed. I also had the SF shim kit that came with the MD and couldn't get it to line up perfectly with that either. I ended up having to mix two large ones from the new kit plus three tiny ones that I pulled off when I removed the closed tine. Super annoying but at least the 4P timed perfectly at 20 ft pounds. I'm less impressed with the Accu-washer kit. I'll probably stick with SF from now on.
    I try hard to use the minimum number of shims to minimize tolerance stacking so i use the Accu-Washers. I have run into the in-between timing a few times as well. I put some 600 grit w/d sandpaper on a large piece of flat steel and lightly dress the muzzle device. Just enough to check for high spots. Almost every time found them too. After dressing the high spots even a little, the clocking would change. It also seemed to torque more consistent as well. I still have about 90 percent original finish.

    Maybe I shouldn't do this, but it works for me and my suppressors. But I'm not hard use or around salt water. I just make sure they're cleaned and oiled when they go back into storage out of rotation.

  6. #26
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    ETA: It helps if I answer the question being asked and not go too quickly....

    For a pin and weld a crush washer isn't the best solution, I'd probably try one of the accu-washers for that application.

    However, for anything else, I'd use a crush washer. I have a couple sets of those darned Precision Armament Accu-washers and can never get them to time correctly. Yes, I follow the directions explicitly. But for something as "permanent" as a pin and weld I'd find a way to make one time correctly.
    Last edited by HKGuns; 10-15-23 at 18:34.

  7. #27
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    I've been partial to crush washers because you can index them perfectly without having to heat and remove one layer of shims at a time. YMMV.
    11C2P '83-'87
    Airborne Infantry
    F**k China!

  8. #28
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    A2 that will never see a can, crush washer.

    Everything else gets shims.

  9. #29
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    How about trying one of those FCD Nautilus timing devices? Haven't tried one, but the design looks solid and pretty much foolproof.
    “You have made us for yourself, O Lord, and our heart is restless until it rests in you.” -Augustine

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgeib View Post
    How about trying one of those FCD Nautilus timing devices? Haven't tried one, but the design looks solid and pretty much foolproof.
    I've searched for an in stock one several times over the last week. After today, I'd happily use one regardless of the relative price.
    Sic semper tyrannis.

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