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Thread: Mini-14 barrel thread shoulder can't mount a sound suppressor?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteyrAUG View Post
    It just might not be a good candidate for a suppressor. I remember having similar issues trying to get cans to play well on a Beretta 92FS, finally just moved on. There was only one suppressor that worked well, an old AAC design with a push button mount, but it's long out of production.

    The only suppressor I've had good luck with in a Mini 14 is the Gemtech Halo which mounts over the factory flash hider.
    It seems many will have an issue with these OSS / Huxworx suppressors that tighten themselves unless the gun has a good shoulder for the mount to be gorilla-torqued on there.

    If not you can use Rocksett on the mount and the can breaks it loose with its impact-gun impulses. Use Red Loctite and the Loctite will melt after the can heats it up and unscrew the mount.

    Use a "normal" can and get gas-face and introduce reliability / durability issues to the gun that require tuning.

    It's too bad because I enjoy shooting the gun with the can. The answer may be red Loctite and don't let it get too hot.

    The only other 5.56 gun I like enough to consider buying is a Tavor X95. But the controls on my Tavor 7 are different and better. The X95 could easily have the exact same problem the Mini has with this can. (A poor shoulder)

    Okay I'm tempted by the BRN-180 too but I dunno about its durability / reliability or thread shoulder.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteyrAUG View Post
    It just might not be a good candidate for a suppressor. I remember having similar issues trying to get cans to play well on a Beretta 92FS, finally just moved on. There was only one suppressor that worked well, an old AAC design with a push button mount, but it's long out of production.

    The only suppressor I've had good luck with in a Mini 14 is the Gemtech Halo which mounts over the factory flash hider.
    I resisted the urge to get a threaded barrel for my M92X.

    But I got one for my Cheetahs! (barrel is marked "7.65mm" which is cool) Fixed barrel during operation but it comes right out for field stripping. Obviously, it works fine suppressed but with warm ammo it's a little hard on the gun. The guy who had the barrels made is now arranging to get us some stronger recoil springs.

  3. #33
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    Silver solder the jamb nut in place.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron3 View Post
    But I got one for my Cheetahs! (barrel is marked "7.65mm" which is cool) Fixed barrel during operation but it comes right out for field stripping. Obviously, it works fine suppressed but with warm ammo it's a little hard on the gun. The guy who had the barrels made is now arranging to get us some stronger recoil springs.
    Yeah, Iím on that path, as well. Iím considering getting a new Cheetah slide and mounting a bigass optic on it to increase mass.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Yeah, I’m on that path, as well. I’m considering getting a new Cheetah slide and mounting a bigass optic on it to increase mass.
    Funny, was just shooting the Cheetah (.32) with the Omega 9k and had several last shot doing feed malfs. Each time the cartridge didn't get up the ramp before the slide crushed it.

    Mag springs not keeping up? Slide thrown back too fast? Combo?

    It happened with good-power ammo (Fiocchi) and less-so (Geco).

    I fired another 75 rds or so after with no can, same barrel, mags, ammo, and even hotter ammo. No malfunctions.

    The threaded barrel is as reliable as factory, more accurate, and throws bullets out with higher velocity.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd.K View Post
    Silver solder the jamb nut in place.
    Even with it in place the can might still turn off the mount. I'd rather solder the mount in place. And the nut.

  7. #37
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    I expect that both the jamb nut and mount have thread relief. Iím not sure the solder will flow trough that gap, and I donít know how else you would feed it to the mount.

  8. #38
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    What about pinning?

    Doesn't need to be welded, just pin the mount in place to prevent it from rotating.

    I'm not sure how thick of a pin I'd need or how close it can be to the outer circumference of the barrel.

    But that would great, once done.

  9. #39
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    I would much rather do soldering than a pin. Even if itís just the jamb nut, once itís solid you have a shoulder just like any regular barrel. Install the mount with Rocksett and you should be fine. If the solder flows through to the mount, even better.

    If you really want to solder the mount, after thinking about it some more, drilling a hole like you would for pinning should work to get the solder in there. And it would allow you to see if the solder flowed to the mount from the jamb nut.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd.K View Post
    I would much rather do soldering than a pin. Even if it’s just the jamb nut, once it’s solid you have a shoulder just like any regular barrel. Install the mount with Rocksett and you should be fine. If the solder flows through to the mount, even better.

    If you really want to solder the mount, after thinking about it some more, drilling a hole like you would for pinning should work to get the solder in there. And it would allow you to see if the solder flowed to the mount from the jamb nut.
    Thanks for the advice.

    I will check around to see who can do the work.

    I did try the Rockset but the can worked it loose with its self-tightening ports and LH threads.

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