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Thread: Over torqued barrel nut... upper receiver or barrel nut ruined?

  1. #1
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    Over torqued barrel nut... upper receiver or barrel nut ruined?

    So my torque wrench is not clicking and I have no idea what I torqued a Geissele barrel nut to a VLTOR upper receiver. When it felt wrong I stopped and backed it off with a breaker bar. So, I don't know if I over torqued it or not, but if I did is the receiver or the barrel nut ruined? Any way to check? I am headed to Home Depot right now to buy a better torque wrench!
    "First gett'n shot, then gett'n married... baaaad habits"

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    M4Guru

    Gal 2:20

  2. #2
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    Inspect the threads of both, and the face of the barrel nut that contacts the barrel extension for deformation.

    I believe your barrel nut is aluminum so either is possibly damaged.

  3. #3
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    Sounds like a plan ! Thanks!
    "First gett'n shot, then gett'n married... baaaad habits"

    "If you're gonna subscribe to hero worship, at least worship a real hero."
    M4Guru

    Gal 2:20

  4. #4
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    Barrel nut is pristine and receiver looks fine. Thanks!
    "First gett'n shot, then gett'n married... baaaad habits"

    "If you're gonna subscribe to hero worship, at least worship a real hero."
    M4Guru

    Gal 2:20

  5. #5
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    You really have to crank on a steel nut to wreck an upper that's 7000 series forged. I only use a torque wrench on fragile systems. Your arm will tell you the correct value after building a few guns.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  6. #6
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    I agree with MarkM. I would be surprised if you did any damage to either part. Use some moly grease or anti-seize on the threads and tighten and loosen the barrel nut a few times before doing a final torque.
    Last edited by SteveL; 06-20-23 at 14:28.
    Steve

    Disclaimer: I am employed by Shadow Systems. My posts on this site are my own and do not necessarily reflect the views of my employer.

  7. #7
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    Vltor had a few systems where they welded 6000 series to make a "monolithic" upper/rail system. I used the torque wrench on those to keep it under 40 or whatever their spec was. Other than that, my torque wrench gathers dust now.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  8. #8
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    Big important part right there that you don't want to overlook.... GREASE that pig before you tighten it down all the way (3x).

    As usual, I agree with Todd. There shouldn't be any issue.


    Todd- A little while after you left one of the low hire monkeys shattereda old Vltor upper of mine.
    Stick


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  9. #9
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    Most 1/2” torque wrenches don’t go any lower than 50 lbs, so you’re not going to get a click on a fastener that only requires 30 - 40 lbs. I used a 3/8” torque wrench with a 3/8” to 1/2” adapter for a long time. Never had any issues with that setup. I had a Snap-On digital torque wrench that could go down to 30 lbs, but that’s overkill for at home gun smithing. I recently picked up a $21.00 1/2” torque wrench at Harbor Freight that goes down to 30 lbs, and that’s what I’ve used on my last build. Lastly, always grease the threads with a moly grease before assembling.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    You really have to crank on a steel nut to wreck an upper that's 7000 series forged.
    I was curious, and checked https://www.engineersedge.com/torque_table_sae.htm which indicates that one may torque a 1" fine thread 2024-T4 bolt to 166 foot-pounds. The larger 7075-T6 thread can probably take quite a bit more even with shorter than standard thread engagement. I wonder if something else would fail first.

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