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Senior Member
I watched a bunch of installation videos.
My main question is; is it just the 2 cross bolts that hold the rail in place?
I’m used to KAC, Larue, Daniel Defense rails and am not familiar with the cross bolt type setups.
How secure is it? Loctite for the cross bolts?
Senior Member
G-Rail Instructions
I've only installed HK G-Rails. I do not use thread locker of any kind on those models. The instructions don't say anything one way or the other, that I can find, about thread locker.
However, some rails, that use a similar lock up method, with helicoils to catch the cross bolts, specifically state not to use thread locker, as removal can destroy the helicoils. The models with the dogbone nut are probably ok for thread locker, but I'd probably avoid it out of habit.
The two screw lockup system is very secure in my experience. But I've not fallen down a mountain with one yet, so YMMV.
A lot of companies use a similar lock up method, I'd imagine if there were issues, it would be bitched about on the internet and I've not seen anything.
Last edited by HKGuns; 10-02-23 at 16:18.
Senior Member
So if I’m understanding the installation instructions, the 2 cross bolts actually apply clamping force to the rail/barrel nut.
Originally Posted by HKGuns
Senior Member
Yep, you got it. There appears to be roughly an inch-ish (Edit: it is closer to 2") of rail clamped around the nut on most rails I've installed.
After reading the instructions more carefully, I see the G-Rails use AL barrel nuts.....Not a fan of AL barrel nuts personally and would prefer a steel nut, given the option.
Last edited by HKGuns; 10-02-23 at 16:29.
Senior Member
Appreciate the info!
Senior Member
Glad it was useful, most welcome.
ETA: Also, if you look at the G-Nut, you see two round indents circling the nut fore and aft, those bolts slide through those grooves to prevent the rail from sliding off as well. It is very similar to the way the HK rails and nuts work, if not a direct copy.
Last edited by HKGuns; 10-02-23 at 16:56.
Senior Member
Mk 4 locks up solid. I wish they'd dump the Mlok crap and do some full pic rail models... (other than the 500 dollar camp Perry version)
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
Member
The bolts go through two groves and the rail is going nowhere. It’s a very solid, well made rail. There’s nothing wrong with the G Aluminum barrel nut so long as it’s not over torqued. Once installed and covered with a rail it’s a non issue.
Senior Member
Is Geissele's barrel nun Aluminum? I never checked. As you point out though, the nut is huge with a large bearing surface. Very solid.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
Senior Member
5. Slide the aircraft aluminum Geissele barrel nut (Item 2) over the barrel and hand tighten.
Yep.......I didn't realize they were AL either, as I've never installed one on a scratch build.
While they may be ok to use as barrel nuts, my strong preference is still steel.
Barrels get hot, very hot, steel conducts heat, aluminum retains heat. Aluminum has a far higher thermal expansion rate than typical barrel steels and since it retains heat, it is susceptible to thermal expansion at lower temperatures than steel.
AL barrel nuts may be just fine, but I've seen no data or analysis to prove they are as good or better than steel in this application.
Maybe we can get a materials science engineer to pop into this sidebar and offer some math as evidence my concerns are unfounded.
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