Scope level recommendations

[Krp7894]

Hi all,

I need some help and I’ve been having a tough time finding something that would work. I’m trying to level a NF ATACR1-8 on my KAC SR15. I’m using a NF unimount 1.5”. I bought the monstrum wedge level but the space from the base of the optic and the mount is way to tight to even fit the first piece in. Would a bubble level suffice? What recommendations do you guys have for me? Thanks in advance.

[One More Time]

34mm tubes and 1.5" mounts don't work with those wedges.
Starrett has adjustable parallels if you know the gap size.

I use plumb line on a wall a few feet behind the rifle.
With the rifle level I shine a light through the front of the scope and adjust the diopter to focus the reticle.
Then just level the reticle to the string on the wall.

[joedirt199]

I have found that if you look in a mirror with your scope mounted, you can adjust the cant so the reticle lines up with the center of the bore. You then look at a plumbob rope to adjust your bubble level to the scope if you use one. Mirror method has been working great for me since some tool may not line the scope reticle up with the bore of the rifle and impart cant that you don't even know about. This causes shots to be off line upto zero and then off on the other side past zero. Did it to all my pellet rifles and powder burners. The effect of optic cant was very obvious on the pellet guns. This was after using levels on scope rails and leveled optics. Mirror method is very easy, you just need a steady base to hold the rifle while you look through it to line up the reticle with the bore.

[grizzman]

I very rarely level the optic to the mount. I level the optic to the rifle with the use of a plumb bob, after leveling the rifle with a level.

[HKGuns]

I very rarely level the optic to the mount. I level the optic to the rifle with the use of a plumb bob, after leveling the rifle with a level.

I do exactly the same.

[titsonritz]

I’ll 2nd (3rd or 4th) a plumb bob. I’ll use levels to right the gun and the string to right the reticle

[T2C]

I use a deck of playing cards to begin leveling the scope. I push enough cards between the picatinny rail and flat on the scope bottom to the point I cannot insert anymore. That gets you close.

Then I draw a 3 foot line on a piece of cardboard and attach it to the wall, making certain the line is plumb. Then I level up the rifle and view the plumb line through the scope.

After I feel the scope crosshairs are close to plumb, I take the cardboard and draw a horizontal line that crosses the vertical line and take it to the range with me. I aim at the center of target, fire a group, adjust the elevation up 40 clicks, then shoot another group. Then I lower the elevation 80 clicks, shoot a group, raise the elevation back to zero, then fire the final group. If the crosshairs on the scope are trued all the groups should cut the vertical line on the cardboard.

Witness marks drawn on the scope body and rings with a thin lead pencil will help you determine how much you are rotating the scope when making minute adjustments.

[Pappabear]

I just us a US Optics rifle bubble on the rail, then some harbor freight bubbles open top of the scope. I have a few. I have a circular one that levels all directions that is kinda nice. Its great if its perfect but I dont stress if its not 100% perfect.

PB

[Allen]

34mm tubes and 1.5" mounts don't work with those wedges.
Starrett has adjustable parallels if you know the gap size.

I use plumb line on a wall a few feet behind the rifle.
With the rifle level I shine a light through the front of the scope and adjust the diopter to focus the reticle.
Then just level the reticle to the string on the wall.

https://arisakadefense.com/optic-leveler-small/
They make it in two sizes to get around this, I had no issue with a Badger COMM and a 34mm Creedo.

That being said, a leveled bench and a plumb bob work wonderfully, and I've used it with several of my dad's older rifles that don't have a flat spot perpendicular to the bore.

Al

[One More Time]

I have that one, didn't fit with what I had.
Looks like it's scope dependent if it fit's or not.