Scope level recommendations

[Adrenaline_6]

How do you ensure that the rifle is perfectly level at the range? Do you have a bubble mounted to it? I'm trying to learn more about this.

Some use bubble levels.

There is also this:
https://mdttac.com/mdt-lra-send-it-m...ctronic-level/

[T2C]

How do you ensure that the rifle is perfectly level at the range? Do you have a bubble mounted to it? I'm trying to learn more about this.

I hold the vertical crosshair along the edge of the sighting target, which was attached to the target board plumb, or vertical line on the target then move the scope aiming point to the desired POI. If I am shooting a silhouette target at 300 yards or farther, I bisect the target with the vertical crosshair.

I've used a couple of bubbles in the past, but they were not internal to the scope. I had to move my head away from the scope in order to use the bubble and was not certain I did not move the rifle slightly when I reacquired the target through the scope. Using the buddy system, my shooting partner watched the bubble and saw movement when I placed my head behind the scope ocular lens. I suspect placing pressure on the stock with my cheek and gripping the stock accounts for part of the movement regardless of how careful I am to avoid moving the rifle. A scope with an internal bubble would be my choice if I wanted to rely on a bubble.

I have a NightForce NXS scope on my RPR, but I haven't had good luck with the scope tracking perfectly after going through great pains to "level" the scope using the flats on the elevation and windage knobs before firing the rifle. I've almost always had to make minute adjustments at the range to guarantee proper tracking. I've had better luck using the playing card method than leveling using the elevation and windage knob flats as points of reference. I perform the vertical tracking test at 100 yards initially, then 300 yards before being satisfied the scope elevation adjustment tracks properly. Set up correctly, I can use center hold, 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock hold at 1,000 yards and get good hits.

I own a variety of rifle scopes, with the NightForce being the best quality. The NightForce has been moved from one rifle to another over the years. Regardless of how the scope is set up in the shop, I still have to make minute adjustments at the range. Tolerance stacking with each component of a shooting system, rifle to stock relationship, scope base to receiver, ring alignment, etc., is why I suspect I have to make additional adjustments during live fire verification of the set up.

[prepare]

Not a problem. I like simple too.

You don't even need the new backlit usb model. The older one works just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Angle...02LL0BIC&psc=1

Which one is smaller? And does that matter?

[Adrenaline_6]

Which one is smaller? And does that matter?

I have the older one and never used or handled the newer one. They look the same size though. It shouldn't matter. Your sitting it on top of your rail/scope base - zeroing it, then sitting it on top of your scope turret.

[ST911]

For ARs, I use a level clipped on the rail and a level on the cap. Amount of fussing thereafter is proportionate to intended use, glass/mag, distance. Fussing may include additional checks with plumbline, mount to optic, etc. I've used other methods, they all work. Leveling the optic to mount is functional, but there can be cant with some. Better gear, fewer variables in play, fewer issues. Budget gear is usually less true.

The farther you shoot, the more it matters.