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Thread: Rifle Cleaning Experiment

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Entryteam View Post
    Over time, it will remove chrome, nickel, and copper. Not sure how quickly, though. Never actually witnessed it. "Ammonia corrosion" generally only refers to mild steels, not the stuff an AR would be made of.
    Quote Originally Posted by ABNAK View Post
    Isn't hard chrome especially vulnerable to ammonia-based solvents if left to sit for too long?
    No, that comes from people thst dont understand the difference between decorative, industrial hard, and(i think the correct term- which Im not familiar with) thin dense chrome plating. Ammonia is extremely corrossive to copper, and somewhat nickel.

    Decorative chrome has a base of copper and nickel. Thats why chrome bathroom accessories in sinks always have copper showing, people use ammonia-based cleaners and the ammonia corrodes it and flakes off the ni/cr topping.

    Chrome in a bore is bonded directly to the steel, so the vulnerable layer, does not exist.
    Last edited by MegademiC; 03-01-24 at 19:38.

  2. #22
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    After the first cold bore shot the clean bore is history, and the cleanliness of the weapon degrades rapidly, so now we're back to the lubes. My solution is to add more. I like to clean my magazines occasionally because the shit blowing down in there is no bueno. Of course YMMV.
    Last edited by Uncas47; 03-01-24 at 23:51.
    "We all got it comin"....Will Munny

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegademiC View Post
    No, that comes from people thst dont understand the difference between decorative, industrial hard, and(i think the correct term- which Im not familiar with) thin dense chrome plating. Ammonia is extremely corrossive to copper, and somewhat nickel.

    Decorative chrome has a base of copper and nickel. Thats why chrome bathroom accessories in sinks always have copper showing, people use ammonia-based cleaners and the ammonia corrodes it and flakes off the ni/cr topping.

    Chrome in a bore is bonded directly to the steel, so the vulnerable layer, does not exist.
    That is good to know! Thanks for the gift of knowledge!
    "It is only the warrior who chooses pacifism. All others are condemned to it."

    "Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem."
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegademiC View Post
    No, that comes from people thst dont understand the difference between decorative, industrial hard, and(i think the correct term- which Im not familiar with) thin dense chrome plating. Ammonia is extremely corrossive to copper, and somewhat nickel.

    Decorative chrome has a base of copper and nickel. Thats why chrome bathroom accessories in sinks always have copper showing, people use ammonia-based cleaners and the ammonia corrodes it and flakes off the ni/cr topping.

    Chrome in a bore is bonded directly to the steel, so the vulnerable layer, does not exist.
    There is some truth to the "ammonia" issue, but much blown out of proportion.

    If you remember back in "Hatcher's Notebook," in Chapter XIV, when starting the discussion on corrosive primers, and other ammunition improvements, the author discusses how cupro-nickel metal fouling was removed with "Ammonia Dope." Ammonia Dope was a particularly aggressive cleaner, and can corrode things if not rinsed off immediately. Worse, if the solution is not freshy mixed, it stops being a cleaner and just starts etching steel on contact.

    Ammonia Dope is made from:

    1 ounce - ammonia persulphate
    200 grains - ammonia carbonate
    6 ounces - ammonia water (28%)
    4 ounces - distilled water

    That is a super high concentration of ammonia.

    Household ammonia cleaners are between 2% and 10% ammonia, weaker that the 6 ounces of ammonia water used in the Ammonia Dope. Many people hear of Ammonia Dope and its issues, and all they hear is "ammonia = bad," so anything with ammonia in it must never touch my rifle. Yes, ammonia is corrosive, that is why it is a good cleaner, but in low concentrations, like in Windex, it's safe enough, just do not ever mix it with bleach.
    Last edited by lysander; 03-05-24 at 09:27.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Bore snakes are a silly joke. Might as well do nothing at all.
    Agreed, not even worth wasting time or money.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteyrAUG View Post
    That's not true. They make a great "clean sweep" once you've actually cleaned the barrel.
    Yeah, I can see them for that purpose only.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Yeah, I can see them for that purpose only.
    When you sell guns, bright shiny bores are a bonus.

    Most people don't get that oil residue means clean. But pull a boresnake through it and it's now showroom ready.
    It's hard to be a ACLU hating, philosophically Libertarian, socially liberal, fiscally conservative, scientifically grounded, agnostic, porn admiring gun owner who believes in self determination.

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  8. #28
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    I did almost the opposite today, cleaned an PCC 9mm SBR I shot suppressed almost daily for a month (great weather, outdoor range I belong to, surplus of 9mm) and put it away a year ago. I should have just clp'd it and let it sit overnight, but ground through it with flakes of carbon all over the towel I was cleaning it on when finished an hour later. Bore was easy, everything else a nightmare.

    I don't recommend my way and may get an ultrasonic cleaner for the other PCC I also shot last year suppressed and put away.

    Thanks for the tips, I'll do this next time for sure.

  9. #29
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    I give my BCG's this treatment:

    - Strip down to parts, including extractor, but not ejector
    - 15 Minutes in Ultrasonic (Heated)
    - Soak in Kerosene to de-water
    - Brush off loose stuff with CLP
    - Patch covered CATM4 down the front of the carrier where the gas rings seat
    - Liberal coating of G96 and reassemble

    Come out nearly like NIB.

    Last edited by HKGuns; 03-05-24 at 19:03.

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