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Thread: Castle nut staking, why the big deal?

  1. #61
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    mmike,

    That may be, but in reality it still is BS. The factory stake jobs that I have seen from Colt are very well done and don't looked dinged up. I would also venure to say that there also many who don't even know that it is supposed to be staked.

    Quote Originally Posted by mmike87 View Post
    That's because these companies don't want to field complaints from people asking why their rifles are "all dinged up". Some people who don't know any better would be pissed that someone took a punch to their endplate.

    Especially the RRA crowd who are always going on and on and on about how great the "fit and finish" is.

    That said - it WOULD be nice to have the option from more places to get rifles without stocks so you can put your own stock on!



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  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    mmike,

    That may be, but in reality it still is BS. The factory stake jobs that I have seen from Colt are very well done and don't looked dinged up. I would also venure to say that there also many who don't even know that it is supposed to be staked.
    I don't really think it looks dinged up either, but just me. It's just a dimple in one or two places depending on how many times the builder likes to get their stake on.

    I look at my stake this way

    RARE - not staked
    Med Well - Staked once
    Well Done - Staked twice

    So how do you like your stake?

    Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast. Fast is good.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric View Post
    That was Armalite's reply to my inquiry.
    Not surprised.


    C4

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    I think it must have been an anomaly. The one I had was staked.

    Don't confuse "my single sample didn't have XYZ" (or does have it, for that matter, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while) with an entire product line, or manufacturing line, that simply just refuses to do something.
    Rob,

    Thanks for your efforts. It's a real service to the community.

    But as an engineer myself, I'm gonna take ya task a bit.

    If you have Company A, which has a quality procedure they are supposed to follow and yet it doesn't happen and you have Company B which simply doesn't perform the quality procedure by policy, which one has the QA problem?

    Answer: Both of them.

    If you don't have a QA process to ensure your standards are met, you're only a little better off than the company that doesn't have the standards at all. Neither company would pass a Capability Maturity Model audit.

    Having said that, I get what your saying. And I don't think many folks would confuse a KAC rifle with a Bushmaster. And I shoot a Bushmaster (among other things).

    Again, thanks for your efforts. I've managed to upgrade my Bushy significantly thanks to your chart (for very little money).

  5. #65
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    Actually, I would argue that only the company that let the product out the door without something that was supposed to happen being done has the QA problem. The company that doesn't do it, ever, is right on track to produce their specified half-assed product.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Actually, I would argue that only the company that let the product out the door without something that was supposed to happen being done has the QA problem. The company that doesn't do it, ever, is right on track to produce their specified half-assed product.
    But they both did so, right? Only one did it deliberately, and one didn't have the processes in place to make sure it was done. QA is almost useless if applied inconsistently.

    But it's just my engineering nerd coming through. I agree with you that on something THIS basic, it's a no-brainer. And my next gun with be an LMT.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Actually, I would argue that only the company that let the product out the door without something that was supposed to happen being done has the QA problem. The company that doesn't do it, ever, is right on track to produce their specified half-assed product.

    Not staking a castle nut can be simply part of procedure and can have nothing to do with the rest of the product. Assuming that the rest is half assed is some peoples own problem.

    I'll just agree to say that if it isn't done they should have it in the manual.



    By the way, I just picked up a 6920. But I don't suppose I'll get any lip about that round these parts.

  8. #68
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    I bought two LMT MRPs this year. One had the castle nut staked, the other did not. I left the SOPMOD on the staked one and put an A2 with a monster man grip on the other (I live in California)

  9. #69
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    When I swapped out my rifle's A2 stock for a carbine buffer tube several years ago, I used blue loctite. Recently I noticed that the castle nut had worked loose! So apparently blue loctite doesn't get the job done! (or I screwed it up - I put a couple drops on the threads) I wanted to use a proper torque wrench too but couldn't figure out how to get a reading using a castle nut wrench.

    Coincidentally, I was about to buy a sling mount plate to replace the end plate anyway.


    Can someone please explain the proper way to stake it once I swap out the end plate?

    Ah, I just found this picture:


    I have a number of regular nail sets and awls, can I use one of them, how hard should I hammer on the endplate? On the other hand, the Harbor Freight spring loaded center punch shown before is just $4 (and just 15 min from my house), so easy enough for me to buy one -- with one of those do you just retract the punch and hit a release, and is that enough pressure to deform the plate sufficiently (it's made of aluminum)?

    And then later if you ever have to remove it, I gather you just muscle it off? (or just bang on the deformation to push it back down?)

    Oh, while I'm at it, I never put moly on the buffer tube's threads either, should I take the opportunity to do so? Is the anti-seize compound that I use for auto maintenance kinda the same thing? If not, what should I go out to buy?

    Thanks all!
    Last edited by esskay; 01-27-09 at 20:29.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by esskay View Post
    I have a number of regular nail sets and awls, can I use one of them, how hard should I hammer on the endplate? On the other hand, the Harbor Freight spring loaded center punch shown before is just $4 (and just 15 min from my house), so easy enough for me to buy one -- with one of those do you just retract the punch and hit a release, and is that enough pressure to deform the plate sufficiently (it's made of aluminum)?
    No release. You just push down on the handle. It's spring loaded and will retract into the handle until a certain point, then it 'pops' back out with the stored energy. Can't help ya much with the other questions. Just getting into this rifle thing, but I've gone through a couple of those HF punches over the years building and fabbing stuff for racecars... Cant beat 'em for $4, or $2 if you go during their "sidewalk sales"!

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