Thanks for the responses.
I havent had time to mess with it yet. I am debating between heating it up or drilling the screw heads.
Thanks
-B
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Thanks for the responses.
I havent had time to mess with it yet. I am debating between heating it up or drilling the screw heads.
Thanks
-B
A soldering iron will release the loctite, and not get the screws, or hanguard hot enough to ruin anything................Step away from the drill, and go get your soldering iron.
John
"Those that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." Ben Franklin, (1759)
I've seen "off brand", " loc-tite" that had red as temporary. Maybe you got lucky.
Clearly another jacknut chemical "book" engineer who failed his class on commonization. That or some commie pinko brand trying to destroy us from within. ;p
It takes 400 deg F to break the bond...thats a lot less than aluminum can handle...your gunsmith isn't much of a smith![]()
Proper application of heat will ensure easy removal without problem.
I was about to chime in on the judicious use of heat, but its been covered.
You might want to invest in some blue loctite when you are ready to reassemble. With properly cleaned and degreased hardware it will hold just fine. (suggest brake cleaner to degrease)
Don
p.s. some day I'm going to make millions by buying brake cleaner and repackaging it as "USGIMOlleSocomPicatinnyA1 Assembly Cleaner" for $19/can
Ok. Once again I am at a crossroad.
My gunsmith does not want to heat the screws because he says he needs a hotter soldering iron. (I know nothing about soldering irons). He seems to be very afraid to touch this gun.
Midwest Industries told me to drill the screw heads until they break off and then use clampers to turn the remaining screw. If I drill the heads, how much screw will remain? Wont it just be stuck then with nothing left to grab?
I am also thinking of trying another gunsmith because I do not have ANY heating tools here. I have almost no tools to accomplish this job.
Thanks for all the help.
-Brandon
Bpurcg,
Here's how I would do it.
If I had an electric soldering iron, I'd give that a try. If I didnt have one, i would not buy one just for this project.
Next up the "power" scale is a propane fired soldering iron. These are commonly used to solder things like copper gutters. Its just like a propane torch, but rather than the flame heating whatever you point it it, it heats a metal tip.
You use that metal tip just like you would use an electric soldering iron. The difference is that this is a larger hotter tip that can xfer more heat.
Finally, if you dont have either of these tools i would go to Radio Shack and purchase a micro butane torch. The flame put out by one of these little guys is about the size you'd get from a match. Not anywhere near the size of a propane torch you'd use for plumbing.
This little microtorch will allow you to apply heat directly to the screw head first with its included iron head. Finally if it doesnt work, you can hit it with direct flame.
I have found this little tool to be INVALUABLE in removing fasteners from all kinds of things, as well as making small electrical solders outside, where it would be a hassle to run an extension cord.
Nobody should be without one of these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062753
Spend the $25 on this little Radio Shack unit. Dont forget to buy some butane.
If you want to step up for about $75, Weller makes a superior product. But at 3x the cost the Radio Shack one works fine for the number of times per year I use it.
Don
Last edited by dcmdon; 01-26-09 at 18:59.
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