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Thread: Quick tip for vehicle prep

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Couple things about changing your tire yourself.

    Brake the nuts free BEFORE jacking the vehicle up. Not only does this keep the wheel from turning while attempting to loosen the lug nuts but it also keeps you from knocking it off the jack.

    Learn the proper location and method to jack the vehicle up.

    Someone already mentioned marking the correct socket to use on the 4 way and the never seize. Another thing to do is to coat the hub and the rim's center. Steel wheels can rust onto the hub, aluminum rims can corrode on the hub.

    If the wheel will not come off the vehicle once you have removed all the lug nuts, install one lug nut back onto the stud hand tight then try to get it off. This way the rim doesn't go flying off somewhere.

    Buy some extra lug nuts so in case some get lost or damaged you have replacements right there.

    LEARN THE PROPER LOCATION AND METHOD TO JACK THE VEHICLE.

    This stuff might sound basic or stupid to some, but trust me they are all valid. I worked as a mechanic for years, doing road service and towing. I also worked at one of the motor clubs handling their damage claims.

    The most popular tire change related damage claims were from cars coming off the jacks due to improper jacking. We would get damaged or lost lug nut claims all the time.

    Certain vehicles have peculiarities when changing a tire on the side of the road.

    VW/Audi have jacking points that work with their jack. In the majority of cases where the vehicle was jacked up off the frame the vehicle would fall off the jack.

    Land Rover puts the air ride compressor next to the frame in front of the left rear tire. They put a black plastic cover over it and it looks like it is the frame. People jack the vehicle up off that location all the time and damage the air ride compressor. In the worst case it is about a $1300 fix.

    Some Mercedes use different length wheel bolts (they use bolts instead of studs & nuts) so if you have a Mercedes make sure you read the instructions on the spare tire compartment. The aluminum wheel has a thick flange so it uses a long bolt. The spare is a steel rim with a thin flange and uses a short bolt. The short bolts are in the spare tire compartment. If you install the steel wheel with the long bolts the vehicle will not move. The bolts hit the parking brake and hub in the rear and wipe everything out back there. The big thing is that they damage the threads on the bolts and when you remove the bolts you strip every hole out in the flange. This can cost about $1200 to fix, can be more if driving a high end vehicle. If done to the front it is less money as there are less parts to damage up there.

    If your vehicle has its spare up underneath the rear of the vehicle, learn how to remove it and replace it. These things fail all the time. They are junk right from the factory and then they sit there for 100k miles and rust up. Drop the tire down so you know how to do it. Lube everything up so it will not seize up. DO NOT USE A POWER WRENCH ON THIS AND DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!!!

    While you have the spare down, make sure it is good to go. Not only properly inflated but also the condition. It is extremely common for these spare tire to get all dry rotted on the sidewall. The tread is brand new but when you put the vehicle's weight on the tire the cracks open up and the tire loses all the air. While it is down, spray up the tire with some type of rubber protection.

    If you were just driving the vehicle, the brake rotors/drums can be hot. Burn your hands hot so be careful.

    Also, keep a spare drive belt in the vehicle in case yours fails. If your repair facility changes yours out for maintenance tell them to throw the old one in the trunk. Keep it in the spare tire compartment. Also if they change your hoses for maintenance then keep them too. Get some spare hose clamps, they can be very handy to have.

    If you get a hole in a hose and do not have a replacement but have tools you can always cut the hose in half at the failure, insert a socket (preferably deep) that fits inside the hose into both sides to join the hose back together and then install the hose clamps I advised you to get.

    It wouldn't be a bad idea to keep a thermostat and some type of sealant around also.
    Last edited by EzGoingKev; 03-26-09 at 01:05.

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