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Thread: Educate me on 10.5" and cans....

  1. #1
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    Educate me on 10.5" and cans....

    ....this is a way down the road project as I just don't have the bones to throw at it all right now. I'm starting off with a dedicated Sun Devil that I'm gonna get for a song & will work the pw/stamp here in the next 2-3 I hope.

    I'm open for suggestions from there. My biggest concern is gas vs. piston. Buy the upper complete ready to go or build??

    I also tend to like the heavier bullets....7 / 8 twist ok or does everyone just shoot 55ball and go with a 1/9.

    Also clueless on cans. I have a TAC67 on my anschutz but figured there were 2-3 favorites for this set up. I also like the idea of taking apart the can to clean but guessing all high pressure ones are sealed?? I am not a brass flinger & it pains me to get a barrel real hot. Strictly a fun gun.

    Thanks!!
    "You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass."
    Japanese Admiral Yamamoto, 1941




    "A wise man's heart directs him toward the right, but a foolish man's heart directs him toward the left."
    Ecclesiastes 10:2:

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    The best bang for the buck in a can for a 10.5 is the M4-2000. It's under a thousand dollars.

    A can on an SBR is still too loud for me to shoot without ear pro. Some people aren't bothered by it, but my ears ring... especially the ear by the ejection port.

    I don't run my can on anything under 14.5" since for recreational shooting, it defeats the purpose. Shooting a silencer with ear pro on is just putting wear on your can.

    5.56 rifle cans are somewhat maintenance free. I just clean my mount and what I can get in the blast chamber.

    For 10.5, an LMT is the way to go. If you're mounting a can, you might as well get every bit of 1/7 twist to safely stabilize the bullet as it goes through the baffles. I had a guy shoot a mag full of M855 through my M4-1000. It was mounted on a 1/9 twist barrel. I was a little concerned since ss109 is a fairly long bullet, but it did fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    The best bang for the buck in a can for a 10.5 is the M4-2000. It's under a thousand dollars.

    A can on an SBR is still too loud for me to shoot without ear pro. Some people aren't bothered by it, but my ears ring... especially the ear by the ejection port.

    I don't run my can on anything under 14.5" since for recreational shooting, it defeats the purpose. Shooting a silencer with ear pro on is just putting wear on your can.
    Thanks, I am going to consider a longer bbl.....my ears ring all the time from my younger days. LOTS of doves and whitewings & paying the price. I always wear plugs. How loud is a 14.5" and how much does the can come into play before I can forget the plugs??

    This was helpful....
    "You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass."
    Japanese Admiral Yamamoto, 1941




    "A wise man's heart directs him toward the right, but a foolish man's heart directs him toward the left."
    Ecclesiastes 10:2:

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    I can shoot the 14.5 without plugs. It really depends on lots of factors. If you're next to a wall or something, it's louder, etc. Some days it seems louder than others. I'd still get the SBR. It doesn't hurt to put mounts on multiple guns.

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    I tried to read a lot on this and have surmised the following:

    55-75gr "okay" on 1/7 twist 10.5" barrels (LMT, etc.) with good ammo. NO wolf (too much risk of getting a bad round) that doesn't stabilize.

    However, I would generally count on a can getting a baffle strike at some point, regardless of what ammo you use. No ammo is ever 100% perfect, as I've seen just about every brand have a bad lot and someone report a bafflestrike. This is where the manufacturer becomes important, as the good ones will help you replace it at low cost. Note also, if you blow through the can's tube, you'll be paying another $200 tax, as the ATF won't let the manufacturer create another can with the same #.
    Last edited by tweakmeister; 03-31-09 at 19:59.

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    Another thing to consider is the shorter you go the more damage it will do to your can. Well "damage" may not be the right word but your can will have to be rebuilt much sooner. I talked to Kevin at AAC and he said when I was running my M4-1000 on a 10.5 barrel that it would have to be sent in to be rebuilt after 5k rounds but if I ran it on a 14.5 it would last up to 3 times longer. So I compromised and got a 12.5 Denny's Operator barrel. LMT makes a 12 inch piston upper also which if I was starting from scratch is probably the route I would go.

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    note the LMT 12" piston rod won't clear the AAC QD flashhider, though it's debatable if you'd ever really need to pull the rod for cleaning (maybe 5-10k rounds).

    edit...apparently you can if you remove the barrel.
    Last edited by tweakmeister; 04-02-09 at 22:26.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tweakmeister View Post
    I tried to read a lot on this and have surmised the following:

    55-75gr "okay" on 1/7 twist 10.5" barrels (LMT, etc.) with good ammo. NO wolf (too much risk of getting a bad round) that doesn't stabilize.

    However, I would generally count on a can getting a baffle strike at some point, regardless of what ammo you use. No ammo is ever 100% perfect, as I've seen just about every brand have a bad lot and someone report a bafflestrike. This is where the manufacturer becomes important, as the good ones will help you replace it at low cost. Note also, if you blow through the can's tube, you'll be paying another $200 tax, as the ATF won't let the manufacturer create another can with the same #.
    I personally can't bring myself to shoot a bullet longer than 62 grain thru my can, stan. I'm sure people do it, but I had a mild baffle strike with 55 grain bullets. It's still a mystery. I can nail it down to a 20 round window. But the can is fine and totally functional. There's just a couple of knicks out of the baffles and the end cap is barely noticeable.

    I know a goon who shoots wolf through his can all the time. I doubt you have any more of a risk of a baffle strike with wolf than any other ammo. His blast chamber is kinda nasty and green though.

    Depending on how much silenced shooting you do, you may never get a strike. There's no point in worrying about it. I got mine at about 1300 rounds, and I'm a 1500 rounds through my can with no further incidents.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tweakmeister View Post
    note the LMT 12" piston rod won't clear the AAC QD flashhider, though it's debatable if you'd ever really need to pull the rod for cleaning (maybe 5-10k rounds).

    Use red loctite on the flashider vs rocksett too maybe.
    Hmm... I didn't know the rod wouldn't clear. You should use the rocksett and not loctite. They aren't that hard to take off even when rocksetted. After 5k rounds I'd probably want to take it off to clean the crown anyway.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I personally can't bring myself to shoot a bullet longer than 62 grain thru my can, stan. I'm sure people do it, but I had a mild baffle strike with 55 grain bullets. It's still a mystery. I can nail it down to a 20 round window. But the can is fine and totally functional. There's just a couple of knicks out of the baffles and the end cap is barely noticeable.

    I would really prefer to run 62-75gr bullets....This baffle strike has raised some concerns.

    I noticed pof has an 11.5" which looks cool.

    Also, on these uppers when they come in....do you simply remove the flash hider and screw on the 1/2x28 can?? I don't think I want to mess with the quick connects as it will be dedicated.
    "You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass."
    Japanese Admiral Yamamoto, 1941




    "A wise man's heart directs him toward the right, but a foolish man's heart directs him toward the left."
    Ecclesiastes 10:2:

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