The staking is sufficient on both of those carriers....
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The staking is sufficient on both of those carriers....
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
Hey gotm4,
I do not mean my question to sound like it does(as in I'm an a**hole). Why do you say it is sufficient? I am just trying to pick your brain since I am just a beginner and don't know s***. Thanks for the info!
A properly staked gas key should never have to be staked again unless the key needs to be replaced due to damage...in which case, I'd just replace the entire carrier assembly anyway.
The staking is sufficient because the metal is deformed enough to retard rotational movement of the bolts.
Last edited by DRich; 04-30-09 at 21:54.
6933
The staking doesn't have to deform the screw heads to work, it only needs to push some of the metal of the carrier key into the screw head to prevent it from turning. The torque is what really keeps is from loosening the staking is just insurance.
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
Thanks for the info. So what you are saying, and I guess the original question about staking means, is that the BCG metal needs to be deformed(pushed inwards enough) to prevent the screw heads from turning(torquing) enough to become loose? What tool is used to do this? A punch with a small radius? The edge of a metal chisel?
What about using a high temp. hardening locking fluid? Yes, I know Loctite is worthless at high temps. Any other ideas, suggestions, info?
There are dedicated staking tools, such as the MOACKS, that do the job quickly and easily. But a hard punch and a big hammer will work just fine. I have a MOACKS now, but for 20yrs, the hammer/punch was used on all my carriers and I've yet to have a gas key come loose.
If torqued/staked correctly, locking fluid is a waste of time, IMO. If not staked/torqued correctly, locking fluid probably won't help anyway.
Last edited by DRich; 04-30-09 at 22:12.
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
gotm4,
Noticed you are an HK Sidearms Armorer. What do you think of the HK USP Tactical .45? Just bought one. Any suggestions on any changes/upgrades I should do? Love it already. Not too large a gun for me. Also considering getting a Glock 17 or 19. Leaning towards the 19. Any help or suggestions appreciated.
I sent my BCG to Gotm4 to have it properly staked and it should arrive home tomorrow in time to do some Saturday shooting.
Thanks Gotm4.![]()
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government."
- George Washington
"Some of you would bitch if a hot blonde served you a perfect steak and beer of choice while naked and performed acts not described." Mark5pt56
Ive got one LMT carrier that has a key thats not chrome lined that I purchased last fall.So I'd say its not a corner being cut due to demand these days.Regardless this is not an issue to me and it functions 100%.
As far as the forge/cast mark,I have not seen that on any of mine.But I'd say most all the carrier keys are forged and then machine cut to a finished part.So your probably seeing something that was not completely scrubbed off in the finishing process.
LMT is not real concerned about how smooth and perty the finish is on parts from what Ive seen,and it caused me to cry,kick and scream at first.Finish of the parts also seems to vary from part to part.So dont expect bling....they are heavy duty and work 100%.Thats all that matters to me nowadays.
If you want smooth and perty parts I'd try another brand...but you may sacrifice durability for perty at a higher retail price IMHO..
Last edited by Blankwaffe; 04-30-09 at 23:10.
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