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Thread: What plates to build 5.56 targets?

  1. #1
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    What plates to build 5.56 targets?

    Trying to be crafty and build some good steel targets to shoot at that will withstand 5.56 round? Anybody know where I can find something strong enough to withstand that round or any ideas of building something fun? Automatic popup?
    Anybody ever build there own steel targets?

  2. #2
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    I dont know where in your area you can get it but you will want to use AR-500 steel.

    -DM-

  3. #3
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    +1 on AR-500

    Here's a site you can order or get ideas:

    http://www.nevcotargets.com/catalog.html

    -B

  4. #4
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    I'm not an engineer, but it occurs to me that a lot depends on how you mount it.

    If you mount it rigidly, so that the entire force of the bullet is transferred to the steel, then you'll need something really serious.

    If you mount it so that the plate swings, then the bullet's energy will be dissipated in moving the plate, rather than penetrating it (plus, then it'll "ring").

    Midway and Natchez and others seem to sell 3/8" steel plate targets designed for rifle rounds.

    Please let us know what you figure out,

    Bimmer
    Last edited by Bimmer; 05-10-09 at 16:05.

  5. #5
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    AR500 is the right steel. Mount the targets at least 15* off vertical and as suggested hang them so they can swing. Commercial 3/8" AR500 plate targets are rated for NATO 55gr at distances greater than 75yds.

    If you can reload, using match type bullets (thin jacket) and loading them to 223 SAAMI spec will allow the targets to be used closer. The 15* tilt is both to reduce stress on the plate and to prevent pieces of jacket metal from coming back at you.

    Don't weld anything in the impact area, only at the edges. Welding even on the back side will make a soft spot.
    Last edited by DBR; 05-10-09 at 23:06.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    I'm not an engineer, but it occurs to me that a lot depends on how you mount it.

    If you mount it rigidly, so that the entire force of the bullet is transferred to the steel, then you'll need something really serious.

    If you mount it so that the plate swings, then the bullet's energy will be dissipated in moving the plate, rather than penetrating it (plus, then it'll "ring").

    Midway and Natchez and others seem to sell 3/8" steel plate targets designed for rifle rounds.

    Please let us know what you figure out,

    Bimmer
    I'm no expert on steel targets but from my experience you must use hard steel. a few years ago at work we had what we called a target tree. A pole with 10 to 12 round steel plates that turned 180 degrees when hit. Red on one side and white on the other. Two shooters would stand side by side and empty one G17 mag at 25 yards. Side with the least color showing would do push ups. We had the bright idea one day to try it at 50 yards with our colt commandos. 55gr 5.56 ammo ruined the plates real quick, so even a swinging or hanging plate that is not hard enough for rifle fire will dent up fast. David

  7. #7
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    As others have mentioned AR500 or Brinnell 500 rated steel is what you need. Depending on availability, price and the size of the steel you can buy locally, it may be easier and possibly cheaper to purchase plates from target companies.

  8. #8
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    You don't need to mount them loosely. If you've ever seen a slow-mo pic of a bullet hitting steel, you'll see that the damage is done long before the gong starts to swing.... much like the bullet is gone from a pistol before the slide starts rearward movement. Free gong movement will get you a better audible impact though.

    You will probably want an AR500 plate, but I have a bunch of free AR425 or AR450 that I got for free. 556 chews it up a little, but for handing gongs at 100 yards and beyond, the price was right.

    I can just flip these gongs smooth side forward if I want to use them for pistol.
    Last edited by markm; 05-11-09 at 15:33.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    If you've ever seen a slow-mo pic of a bullet hitting steel, you'll see that the damage is done long before the gong starts to swing....
    I'm not a physicist, but this doesn't make any sense to me at all.

    If the gong swings when it's hit, the some of the bullet's energy is expended in moving the gong, rather than just hammering it.

    BTW, at 25yds a .308 will go clean through one of those 1/4" thick "pistol" spinner targets, but .30 Carbine just dents them.

    Bimmer

  10. #10
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    AR-500 is expensive. As an alternative I use a one inch thick mild steel plate left over from road construction, swinging from a rebar stand. The front end is chewed up, but with thousands of impacts, there has not been a penetration, including some hits with .300 Ultra Mag and .338 Lapua.

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