Paint finishes, what is your experience?

[kmrtnsn]

I am in the middle of a couple of builds (my wife has to have one too), anxiously awaiting each and every UPS shipment of back-ordered parts to arrive.

I have decided to paint these rifles and have been looking at Gun-cote and Duracoat as finishes, having only ever used G.I. spray paint before.

What are your experiences with these finishes? I have an airbrush so application isn't an issue. I am looking for a finish that will take some abuse and have a true matte/flat appearance when finished. I plan on painting over all the metal and plastic of the rifle, stock, and scope.

Your experience, advice, and suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you.

[SSGN_Doc]

I have used Norrels Moly Resin with good results in Black and Green.

Brownells Teflon Moly is good if you want to match uppers and lowers with a baked on teflon coating.

I've seen tan duracoat used on barrels and it turned kind of a reddish brown after the barrel heated up. It was someone elses rifle at the range so I didn't get a lot of specifics. Duracoat, if it is air cured needs about six weeks to fully cure. They do make Dura Bake as well that may hold up to high temps without color change.

[veeref]

I have only used Duracoat. I airbrushed it on my lower and upper using HK Semi-Gloss black. It was actually more matte than I expected (using the reccomended 12:1 ratio of paint/hardener). Like above poster said, it really does take about 6 weeks to fully cure. I made the mistake of working on my upper and lower after 1-2 days of application and ended up having to re-apply it. Its been 6 weeks since I applied it and I'm happy with its appearance.

I haven't applied it to anything other than metal parts, so I can't comment on how it works on plastics or wood.

[lanceriley]

i've used gun kote on I think 6 lowers. so far they're handling quite well. it's taking up the banging but I noticed that it things out in high wear areas so apply an extra coat, near the part that contacts the web of your hand and the front of the magwell. I use to grip there.

just 1 draw back... you have to media blast with alum oxide 120

[kmrtnsn]

I was hoping to avoid bead blasting, if at all possible. Thanks for the info!

[sbiggs]

I recently painted my SPR clone in Brownells Dark Earth Alumahyde and it came out quite well. Appears to be pretty tough, although I haven't put it through any rigourous drills yet.

[lanceriley]

not bead blasting.... alum oxide blasting... gives it a rough finish. bead blasting is smooth finish.


alumahyde would also work but in 3 years time it chips off.

[kmrtnsn]

Did you rattle can the Alumni-hyde or did you use an airbrush? What did you do for surface prep? And lastly, how is the sheen? Is it a true flat or matte or does it have some shine to it? Thanks!

[lanceriley]

for the alumahyde, I use a can. rattled the can very well. as for prep I used a#400 sandpaper to roughen the surface up. use paint thinner to degrease it. although there are better options. heated the reciever with a hair dryer. it was very flat. but like I said after 2-3 years. alumahyde doesn't last very long it turns powdery and chips.

as for the gunkote. so far so good it's still going strong after a year. media blast with alum oxide 120. thinner to degrease it. used a badger 150 airbrush to apply it. very flat too. but if you don't media blast it. it will turn in shiny. and you'll have to start all over again.

[Joe_Friday]

I used the alumahyde on a 1911 that I built, just as a finish until I get more rounds through it and decide on an actual finish. I am pretty disappointed in it. I read the directions, watched the video and followed the steps that are supposed to be done (basically the same thing you described) and and let it cure for two weeks. After all the time and effort it is quickly wearing on all contact areas with my holster and where the slide makes minor contact with the frame. It is no big deal to me as I really dont care what it looks like but I really did expect a little more from the product. I have stuff that is Kryloned that has lasted longer for a lot less money. I know a lot of people have used alumahyde and not had any problems with it but the 1911 will probably have a new park finish and everything else will get krylon rattle can.

I will admit to this though, the frame did already have a good park finish and it is holding up alright.
YMMV

for the alumahyde, I use a can. rattled the can very well. as for prep I used a#400 sandpaper to roughen the surface up. use paint thinner to degrease it. although there are better options. heated the reciever with a hair dryer. it was very flat. but like I said after 2-3 years. alumahyde doesn't last very long it turns powdery and chips.

as for the gunkote. so far so good it's still going strong after a year. media blast with alum oxide 120. thinner to degrease it. used a badger 150 airbrush to apply it. very flat too. but if you don't media blast it. it will turn in shiny. and you'll have to start all over again.