Mid length or CAR 9mm?

[C4IGrant]

I suggest the top loading block. "drops in" from the top, mine was really tight, they are pricey for the good ones.

I strongly suggest having the bolt ramped by Lee Minor and you need the 9mm hammer. If you don't ramp the bolt, the hammer/trigger pins take a beating and are subject to breaking, hence the suggested ss pins. The hammer "hook" will also beat the piss out the disconnector. Cure for that-ramp the bolt and grind it(hammer) down some. If I remember correctly, once the bolt is ramped, you can keep the regular hammer.

M4arc, For info, Bob Yurina did all of my work, modified th emags, cut the barrel, installed the tros 3 lug, etc.
Simply Dynamic has the upper now and is on one of his pic threads.

My true suggestion-save the money and don't do any of it. Unless you need a secret squirrel suppressed limited range sniper stick.

oh yeah--the set screw block is a piece of crap, doesn't stay, will mark the lower up. I've seen peopl edo permanent mods to the lower to keep it locked in.

The drop in ones are nice, but on the pricey side for sure.

I run the standard Colt mag block and have NEVER had an issue with it. Did I get lucky with mine or did you get unlucky with yours?


C4

[mark5pt56]

The drop in ones are nice, but on the pricey side for sure.

I run the standard Colt mag block and have NEVER had an issue with it. Did I get lucky with mine or did you get unlucky with yours?


C4

I think you got lucky Grant. I remember alot of people complaining about the set screw ones. One guy drilled a hole in his recvr and added a detent, actually was a good job.
I had to crank mine down and it would still loosen up. I went the top loading block and it worked great.

[C4IGrant]

I think you got lucky Grant. I remember alot of people complaining about the set screw ones. One guy drilled a hole in his recvr and added a detent, actually was a good job.
I had to crank mine down and it would still loosen up. I went the top loading block and it worked great.

When I was on TOS, I hung out in the pistol calibers forum and really don't remember anyone complaining about them. I wonder if this is a new thing?

The top loading ones are nice (no doubt), but they are almost double the price!

It is my opinion that if you can get the standard Colt model to work then just go with that. If it doesn't then go with the top loading one.



C4

[Nathan_Bell]

I guess, but you would have to be an idiot to do it. They use the standard mag release button.



C4

Hmm, I guess that means I should not try to do it before at least two cups of coffee

Will ponder

[SuicideHz]

I have a NM 2-stage RRA from Steve in my Noveske lower. I am planning on SBRing it and just swapping uppers. I don't need the LCW pistol only lower my Colt RO635 came on...

I have heard that I can used the NM trigger fine with this upper, maybe because there is no traditional hammer hook on it?

Also, it seems that the pictures of "ramped" bolts I have seen have a lot of material taken away where mine doesn't have all that material. It's "ramp" is quite far back on the bolt.

Maybe I just don't know enough and it's wishful thinking.

I'll have to get some pictures up so I can get a conclusive answer.

What are '99 RO635 uppers going for? I heard at least $650 or so for the upper only, is that true?

[Pep]

....................New to the forum, sorry for the hijack...............


(mark5pt56) , I've read your reply to a post & this caught my eye.

(I strongly suggest having the bolt ramped by Lee Minor and you need the 9mm hammer.)

I was wondering if you would have any info on Lee Minor . I was considering having my 9mm RR bolt ramped & using a DPMS hammer on my lower.
I was also going to ask if a standard 9mm hammer would work reliably w/ a ramped bolt. I thought a 9mm hammer would not be needed w/ the bolt ramped.

I like the Hahn blocks, ($$$). I was going to use the Hahn top loader for a quick change upper setup, but I guess the BHO feature is an extra i would like to have so I was left w/ spending $25 more for a dedicated Hahn top loader.

thanks & take care.

Pep.

[SHIVAN]

I use the dedicated Hahn block since I am using Colt pattern mags.



I use a Specialized Armament ramped and tungsten weighted bolt/carrier. I also run KNS Anti-rotation pins.

My upper is a RRA 9mm with a DD M4 7.0 and a TROS 5" 3 lug barrel. I shoot it with the Trident 9 in place 100% of the time.

My upper looks like this:

[SuicideHz]

Update-

RRA 2 stage would get caught up on a lip on the bolt. I filed it off myself but had it ramped for good measure.

Runs like a champ and bumps like a sewing machine when suppressed.

[The Archangel]

Here's another Tros 5" barrel upper with a 7" Daniel Defense FF Rail. Pictured with my AAC Phantom.

[edlmann]

I think the CAR vs. Mid is only a matter of which handguard length you prefer in 9mm ARs. Unfortunately this is like the blind leading the blind so I should probably shut up until we find a definitive answer on this

True. I like the look of the mid-length handguard better with a 16" barrel, but that's a matter of personal preference.

There's a couple of other benefits with the mid-length handguard and the 16" barrel:

1. The bayonet lug becomes functional; and

2. The sight radius is a bit longer.

If you plan to use an optical sight and never intend to mount a bayonet, then you're back to the looks of it.