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Thread: Removing pinned flash hider

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweak View Post
    I've always sawed off enough of the muzzle device to get a center into the muzzle then turned the outside of the device on a lathe until the pin was exposed. Obviously, not the approach to use if you want to save the device.
    That's optimal... but if you..

    1. don't have a lathe, and..

    2. don't want/need to take the barrel or even the handguards off the upper....

    Dremel is the quickest way to remove the growth.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  2. #22
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    I was gonna go SBR but with the trust cost ($500), $200 to the man and another $100 for the transfer to the store close to me....it was gonna cost almost what I'll have in this weapon in addition to the weapon.

    Plus, I really just wanted something I could tinker with and build onto slowly.

  3. #23
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    To avoid this dilemma, who offers a proper silver solder attachment method? Seems a later remelting and cold bluing is less invasive than dremeling/sawing/whatever and destroying an old FH.

    If you insist on pinning, I'd use an A2 or a Phantom, but I wouldn't waste a Vortex of Battlecomp on such a config.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmart View Post
    To avoid this dilemma, who offers a proper silver solder attachment method? Seems a later remelting and cold bluing is less invasive than dremeling/sawing/whatever and destroying an old FH.

    If you insist on pinning, I'd use an A2 or a Phantom, but I wouldn't waste a Vortex of Battlecomp on such a config.



    The problem with solder is to meet the ATF requirement you have to heat the dang thing up to near cherry red status, and I don't trust that on a barrel where heat treat is important.

  5. #25
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    I thought there was still a 600-800 degree margin between solder application temp and steel heat treating temp. Seems pretty generous to me. I suppose someone who hasn't a clue might have a problem, I was just asking for recommendations of smiths with a clue.

  6. #26
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    I definitely don't recommend that dremel method for the faint of heart. I plan on setting this weapon up once with top quality parts to build the lightest and most effective weapon I can. I have other AR's that are much easier to change parts in and out on. If I did decide to change anything out on this setup it will be simply sights or optics. I have already built one AR from the ground up so this one is just a little more challenging to my skills.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmart View Post
    If you insist on pinning, I'd use an A2 or a Phantom, but I wouldn't waste a Vortex of Battlecomp on such a config.
    I consider the 14.5" + pinned muzzle device a good option for:

    1) Someone who KNOWS what configuration they like, and is not likely to change anything. Pinning the muzzle device you KNOW meets you needs is not a waste.

    2) Someone who is willing to buy another barrel/upper later when they want to change something.

  8. #28
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    well the Lawyer I talk to today wants 600.00 for the trust and then 200.00 for the stampI think I am happy with it like it is for now.


    NRA Member

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belmont31R View Post
    The problem with solder is to meet the ATF requirement you have to heat the dang thing up to near cherry red status, and I don't trust that on a barrel where heat treat is important.
    Agreed. I'd never mess with that method. At least when you get rid of a pinned thing... you're barrel steel and threads are still serviceable.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmart View Post
    I thought there was still a 600-800 degree margin between solder application temp and steel heat treating temp. Seems pretty generous to me. I suppose someone who hasn't a clue might have a problem, I was just asking for recommendations of smiths with a clue.



    1200 degrees with metal is not anything to fool around with, and with solder that is the temp of the surrounding material, too. Im not heating ANY barrel up to that temp.

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