Changes to primary firearm

[JeepDriver]

Curious what changes people made to their primary firearms after they attended their first class. What did you waste your money on before running the gun in stock form to find out what works and what didn't work?

I'm finally getting off my ass and have started training. I have attended 1 class so far and had 1 range day of running drills with a veteran of several classes. I think I learned a lot more running drills with one other guy, then at a class full of guys doing a conga line. I'm currently scheduled to attend another one day, all shooting class in November.

I've already noticed, that what I thought was a damn good set up is seriously lacking.

This is what I thought was good to go:



I found myself gripping to far forward for the carbine rail, and burning myself on the gas block. So the rail needs extended. DD 10" Lite will be added. The LMT rear BUIS in addition to the FSB is distracting, Low profile gas block (needed for new rail anyway) and Troy BUIS needed.

I currently have and like a 2-point sling. The one point is attractive for the transitions. But I really like the 2-point and the way the gun hangs and is easier for me to grab. That's something I'll have to fight my way through, and make the decision after a few other training days and classes. I'm pretty stuck on the 2 point. Maybe I'm just stubborn.

I'm also left handed. If I could find Knights lower for sale I would consider it. I've been thinking about the POF Gen III lower for the ambi release, but that's another tax stamp and a wasted lower, I'm going to make this one work. I have some things that need addressed to make the mag changes easier, I already have a Ambi Safety and a Badger Gen II Tac Latch. I feel the Tac Latch makes it easier to power stroke the charging handle one handed. I'm between the Norgon vs. Knights for the Ambi Mag Release to make the mag changes smoother. Still not sure which one to go with.

The ARMS mount has tape on the underside of the mount to keep it tight, still holds true but its time to go. LaRue inbound. The SOG VFG is still workable, however the short version of the FUG or TD is all I really need; It's an indexing point for my grip, not really a VFG, another inbound item.

Another item I'm thinking about changing is the barrel. I have a CMMG 1:7 11.5" barrel currently on this one. I'm debating it is worth it to get either a BCM 11.5" Hammer Forged or a DD 11.5" Hammer Forged (when/if they are available). I'm also looking at the ballistics of a 12.5" polygonal barrel. The increases velocity of the additional 1" of barrel as well as the polygonal rifling is attractive. For those who have one, is it a waste of money or money well spent? ?


The suppressor is another thing I'm looking at replacing. I have a Gem Tech M4-02 on the gun currently. It does its job. I did have it walk loose at the range on day and cause a malfunction. Not really pleased by that. Since it started to walk off last weekend, I Red Loc Tighted it to the gun, I'm not all that worried about getting it off, as hot as the can gets, it should burn the Loc Tight off and make the suppressor easy to get off after one range session. At least that's my plan. We'll see how that works out! Personally, I wouldn't like to be on the range, at a class next to a sub-16" barrel w/o a suppressor. So it's just good manors to have a can on an 11.5" gun.

I have a SWR A2-RA on order, but who knows when that will come in, and then have another 5-6 months for ATF to clear the Form 4. From the pics on the web site it looks something like Surefire mounting system, hopefully that accurate and it's a positive as the Sure Fire mount and doesn’t allow it to back off once it heats up.



I'm sure this is old news to a lot of the members here, I'm just looking for a little advise about weapon set up. There is a lot of class and real world experience here; I'm looking for that experience and the advice they have to offer.



Thanks for any advise.

Chad

[Business_Casual]

Less is better, adding stuff doesn't make it lighter.

M_P

[JeepDriver]

Less is better, adding stuff doesn't make it lighter.

M_P

Less may be better, but having a gun that works the way you want it to, is more important.

If I were a student of less is better I would be running a A1 light weight w/ no can, optic or light.

I didn't ask about weight, just wondering what changes people made after they started training.

[BLACK LION]

I will add some ideas to the pot...

Maybe ditch the rear sight...I have one of the same and love it but not with optics or a back up to optics... I see that rear sight as a stand alone unit for running a rig "irons only".... I can shoot pretty damn good with just that iron sight combo so it may be "considerable" to just run irons.
I use the Magpul MBUS now as back ups to my optic...they are light and fast.

I would extend that rail to at least a 9" middy with a low pro gas block... You 10" selection should be perfect.
Maybe opt for a shorter or "stubby" VFG since its just a reference point...

I am still back and forth on the sling thing... I see merits in both single and 2 point slings... maybe get one that does both.

I can see benefits of using a tactical bolt catch, ambi mag and bolt release and ambi tac latch.... I am not completely sold on the ambi selector since I have heard stories of them breaking so I am on hold for that one...

[RogerinTPA]

Looking at your weapon, better rail covers. I only have rail ladders on top. After a few mags, you'll see my point, unless you use nomex gloves.

[JeepDriver]

Looking at your weapon, better rail covers. I only have rail ladders on top. After a few mags, you'll see my point, unless you use nomex gloves.

Interesting. I haven't noticed that as a problem yet. however I've been so worried about my grip and not hitting the gas block, maybe I have over looked that. Something to watch next time I'm at the range.

Thank You

[Treehopr]

You might want to consider a 9.5 FSP-type rail rather than just getting a longer rail and a low pro gas block, or at the least just having the FSB shaved down to fit under a longer rail instead.

You mention the iron sights being a distraction, is your ARMS Aimpoint mount set up for 1/3 co-witness or absolute?

How are you activating your light? From the pic it looks like you're wrapping your thumb around the VFG to activate the clickie on the light, have you tried running the light on the 3 o'clock rail instead of the 9 o'clock rail?

[rob_s]

I didn't ask about weight, just wondering what changes people made after they started training.

Maybe you didn't, but for me they are/were one and the same.

Weight of the carbine is, IMHO, the #1 most overlooked factor by those that haven't actually gone out and shot the gun before, and the #1 thing that they then most resist acknowledging after the fact.

I built up what I thought was the baddest barfcom carbine at the time when the ban sunset. 14.5" LMT upper with pinned Gemtech suppressor mount, 12.0 Larue rail, light, Magpul M93 stock, etc. The other picture posters loved it. Problem was that once I got out and started shooting it the damn thing was just too heavy. If it had been heavy for a purpose I might have dealt with it, but my next carbine, that became my primary for quite some time, was almost entirely a reaction to all that extra weight.

From time to time I forget these lessons. I let the gun get weighed down with a bunch of extras, or heavier versions of various things than needed, and it doesn't take long before I self-correct and get back on track and in turn get happier about my shooting.

[JeepDriver]

Made the changes.

With out the can, it no real weight difference as far as I can tell. Wish I had a postal scale to give exacts, but with only a Vortex flash hider it feels the same as before. The can is the only thing that really makes a big difference.

I have another can inbound, I got word Thursday that my SWR A2-RA will be shipping soon, and I got a serial number for it too, so hopefully in 6 or 7 months I'll have an A2 flash hider and a QD can. Not that it will be lighter, but the QD function will be a big bonus over the thread on.

[Failure2Stop]

I would have kept it the same as you started, but would have replaced the big SF with an X300.

Given your current setup you can go a step further-
Place an X300 at 12 oclock
Put your BUIS behind it, in the UP position
You can run the rear BUIS either up or down, but I would have stuck with the LMT as long as the irons were lower 1/3 in the optic.