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Thread: Oh No I bought a RRA.....Did I fix it right?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Goodtimes View Post
    I certainly dont think that the ST-T2 would pose any reliability problems that A standard H2 or H3 wouldnt potentially cause.
    Depending on the weight, I would be inclined to agree with you, but then it begs the question, if it does no worse, than for the increased cost what does it do better?

    Also
    the way the buffer is made, the weight inside the buffer doesent shift around, supposedly making the recoil impulse smoother. its also made out of stainless steel fwiw.
    I'm not actually sure I agree with making the weight stationary, or with the claims re: "recoil impulse" (a term which is hard enough to pin down as to it's meaning as to be pretty useless in and of itself). IMHO if the weights in the standard unit shift they do so for a reason. Locking them down without a clear understanding of why they are loose to begin with strikes me as a bad idea.

    And, even if the ST-T2 is the best buffer ever in the universe and is easily worth 10x it's price, it can still be a source of possible reliability issues in a carbine that has been working fine with a standard C buffer. Just because a thing is the greatest since sliced bread doesn't mean it's applicable in all cases.

  2. #12
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    I own 6 RRA uppers (and a couple of lowers). I'm not going to debate their relative quality against the Noveske's, BCM's, or Colt's. They will do what I ask them when I ask them, of that I am certain. I properly staked the carrier key with a MOACKS, I properly staked the castle nut, and I ensured they had the proper extractor insert and spring. For the three which are carbine length gas systems, I am using a M16 carrier with H buffer. I used the Explanation of Features to make each of the adjustments I just mentioned, as they are reliability enhancements. The chart is meaningless to me. I will never shoot out the 4140 chrome lined barrels. If a bolt breaks, I have some BCM bolts as spares. I have shot a number of 5.56 loads through each of them without issue, so chamber dimensions are not an issue. No, my RRA's don't meet all the specs on the chart, but then, my needs don't require it. I have no doubt they will function reliably in any situation they may be needed, to include a firefight. While I have never been to a carbine class, yet, I have pumped about the same amount of rounds downrange in relatively the same amount of time as most would do during a class. That particular RRA ran fine and is running just fine (and hasn't been cleaned in the last 3000 rounds). Each of the others have the same reliability enhancements. Again, I'm not here to tell anyone that my RRA's are "just as good as". They do what I need them to do when I need them to do it. That is a fact! Of course, so does my Noveske.
    Just one of the Shepherd's sheepdogs. Joshua 24:15

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt2124 View Post
    Alright fellas I know the title kinda shows my inexperience but when purchased at the time I had limited resources of info on the AR platform. So I made the best informed decision that my budget would allow. Now instead of scrapping my RRA Tac. Entry I decided it may be more cost effective to try to bring it up to spec. Here are my mods, and if I'm heading in the wrong direction someone who is wiser then me (doesn't take much) point me in the right direction.


    Anvil Arms Complete BCG with Carpenter Bolt
    Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Buffer
    Tactical Springs LLC Extra Power(red) Buffer Spring


    I believe with these modifications I have possibly added a few more check marks on "the list" to my RRA rifle.

    Thoughts/Questions/Gripes/Concerns All welcome

    Matt

    Anvil Arms Complete BCG with Carpenter Bolt NO, NOT REALLY.

    Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Buffer If it is heavier than a Car buffer, then you have improved things some.

    Tactical Springs LLC Extra Power(red) Buffer Spring Good idea, but the RRA spring really isn't the issue. It is the oversized GP.

    If I owned a RRA, there is the list of things I would do:

    1. Stake the gas key.
    2. Add a BCM bolt upgrade kit (if it has a carbine gas system).
    3. Buy a spare bolt (as these break on all guns).
    4. Add an H buffer for a middy gas system and an H2 or H3 buffer for a carbine gas system.
    5. Check the chamber to make sure it is 556 NATO.
    6. Removed the RE and installed a mil-spec one and then staked the castle nut.


    C4
    Last edited by C4IGrant; 09-09-09 at 16:54.

  4. #14
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    I run a tactical cs carbine buffer spring but I am using the standard rate one blue.
    Just replaced as my original spring was measuring 10 3/8 '' . It works fine so far but I still have not put that many rounds through it to give me an absolute answer.

    I have seen the Spikes st2 buffer it is supposed to be filled with tungsten powder and is supposed to act like a dead blow hammer. The Idea sounds good but I have no experience with it. I would try it but my carbine already ejects the brass at the 4:00 position with an H-buffer so I am fine.

    Grants post pretty much sums it up.

    1. Stake the gas key.
    2. Add a BCM bolt upgrade kit (if it has a carbine gas system).
    3. Buy a spare bolt (as these break on all guns).
    4. Add an H buffer for a middy gas system and an H2 or H3 buffer for a carbine gas system.
    5. Checked the chamber to make sure it is 556 NATO.
    6. Removed the RE and installed a mil-spec one and then staked the castle nut.

    You already have the ST2 buffer so scratch number 4 and just do the rest.
    Buy good mags I recommend P-mags...
    Last edited by Thomas M-4; 09-09-09 at 21:55.

  5. #15
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    "Removed the RE and installed a mil-spec one "

    Noob here but is this really necessary? Can't you just put the new H buffer and action spring in an existing commercial RE and call it good? Sure, do it if you're buying a new milspec slider but otherwise it doesn't seem that a good commercial tube will affect reliability or durability.

    I keep hearing commercial REs are garbage but just can't buy that.

  6. #16
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    Guys thanks for all the input. I guess maybe I was wrong in my research on bcg and by going with the Avil Arms one. But just maybe it will work well for me and won't be an issue. Also I thought with all the extra weight from the bcg and heavier buffer I would need the extra power spring and this seems not to be the case? The spikes buffer on the website weighs in at 4.3oz which is just heavier then a H2 buffer if I recall correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Anvil Arms Complete BCG with Carpenter Bolt NO, NOT REALLY.

    Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Buffer If it is heavier than a Car buffer, then you have improved things some.

    Tactical Springs LLC Extra Power(red) Buffer Spring Good idea, but the RRA spring really isn't the issue. It is the oversized GP.

    If I owned a RRA, there is the list of things I would do:

    1. Stake the gas key.
    2. Add a BCM bolt upgrade kit (if it has a carbine gas system).
    3. Buy a spare bolt (as these break on all guns).
    4. Add an H buffer for a middy gas system and an H2 or H3 buffer for a carbine gas system.
    5. Check the chamber to make sure it is 556 NATO.
    6. Removed the RE and installed a mil-spec one and then staked the castle nut.


    C4
    In regards to Grant's post and the replies to it, the RRA carrier has been staked this happened at my patrol rifle school by one of the instructors. I'd have to look at it again to make sure it was a good job but knowing B. Sain like I do I'm sure its good to go. And I can't for the life of me find if it has a mid lenght or carbine gas system if someone knows please fill me in. In regards to checking the chamber I know I've shot both .223 rem and 556NATO through it with no digestive problems.....is this wrong? And I'm pertty darn sure it is stamped with .556NATO on the lower but the redimag covers the lower up right now. I'm assuming there is another way the check the chamber, I'm just not aware of it. And lastly number 6 "remove the RE" I'm going out on a limb here saying that that is the buffer tube?

    And I guess I should add that when I removed the buffer spring it was WAY shorter then the new spring I got so I'm sure it was time for a change. And to one of rob_s questions we are required to shoot 55 grain Hornady Tap on patrol, and I've only ever put 55 grain through it as far as I'm aware. The ammo is specified by our policy so compliance is mandatory.


    Thanks again guys y'all never disappoint on the amount of knowledge here, and willingness to help

    Matt
    Last edited by Matt2124; 09-09-09 at 22:07.

  7. #17
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    Matt,

    I did pretty much everything "C4IGrant" suggested a while back on my first AR - a RRA Pro-Series Government.

    I started by staking the gas key on the original bolt carrier, swapping for an H buffer, and upgrading the extractor (BCM kit) on my RRA bolt. I also bought extra bolts as backups.

    The "RE" is the receiver extension aka the buffer tube. I replaced my commercial buffer tube because I wanted to use the LMT SOPMOD stock. Removal was pretty straightforward - I used a heat gun to heat the area (RRA apparently uses red loc-tite) and then took the armorer's wrench to it. It took all of 10 minutes and I'm not terribly mechanically inclined. I installed a new BCM receiver extension and properly staked the castle nut.

    Since then, I've acquired a few other "top tier" rifles but I'm pleased to say that my first AR (the RRA) still shoots very accurately and reliably and this is after a few thousand rounds There's some great advice here - follow what you can and you should be good to go.

  8. #18
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    Its a carbine length gas system, don't trust the lower as far as chamber this has been discussed in other threads but the best way is the markings on the barrel and even this can be wrong (depending on manufacture).

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quentin View Post
    "Removed the RE and installed a mil-spec one "

    Noob here but is this really necessary? Can't you just put the new H buffer and action spring in an existing commercial RE and call it good? Sure, do it if you're buying a new milspec slider but otherwise it doesn't seem that a good commercial tube will affect reliability or durability.

    I keep hearing commercial REs are garbage but just can't buy that.
    Yes IMHO. Reason? The commercial RE's are 6061 and the mil-spec is 7075. So at the VERY least, they are stronger. This mostly applies to buttstroking or drop testing.

    The main reason I would switch it out is because they are "glued" together vs being staked.

    I have had to remove RE's on the range before in order to get a gun back up and running. That is not going to happen with a loctited castle nut.

    The other side benefit is that you have more options for stocks.



    C4

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt2124 View Post
    Guys thanks for all the input. I guess maybe I was wrong in my research on bcg and by going with the Avil Arms one. But just maybe it will work well for me and won't be an issue. Also I thought with all the extra weight from the bcg and heavier buffer I would need the extra power spring and this seems not to be the case? The spikes buffer on the website weighs in at 4.3oz which is just heavier then a H2 buffer if I recall correctly.



    In regards to Grant's post and the replies to it, the RRA carrier has been staked this happened at my patrol rifle school by one of the instructors. I'd have to look at it again to make sure it was a good job but knowing B. Sain like I do I'm sure its good to go. And I can't for the life of me find if it has a mid lenght or carbine gas system if someone knows please fill me in. In regards to checking the chamber I know I've shot both .223 rem and 556NATO through it with no digestive problems.....is this wrong? And I'm pertty darn sure it is stamped with .556NATO on the lower but the redimag covers the lower up right now. I'm assuming there is another way the check the chamber, I'm just not aware of it. And lastly number 6 "remove the RE" I'm going out on a limb here saying that that is the buffer tube?
    Your gun has a car gas system. What 556 NATO did you try? Some ammo is listed as 556, but actually is not. The stamping on the barrel means nothing (companies lie about this all the time). Stamping on a lower means even less (FYI).

    RE = Receiver extension. The incorrect/slang term for it is "buffer tube."


    C4

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