Bullet Proof or Hardcore Parts?

[Dave L.]

Ed Brown has "Hardcore" and Wilson Combat has "Bullet Proof" as their higher quality 1911 part line.
I'm trying to get an idea about what is the best possible choice between the two even if, for example, EB has a better extractor but WC has a better slide stop.

Both companies list "tool steel" as their material however, EB says they have a "special heat treating process".

I'm looking to gut my Warrior out- because the kimber parts piss me off.

I would really like to know more about materials used and qaulity/value/relaibility/fit(finish isn't too important for exterior parts).

Thanks in advance,
Dave

[madryan]

I gutted my Kimber Stainless II also and basically went with either WC "Bulletproof" or Ed Brown "Hardcore" stuff based on the price mostly. If the Ed Brown stuff was only a bit more than the WC stuff then I went Ed Brown because IMO they're stuff is nicer. Really though, you can't go wrong either way.

BTW... If you have a Warrior then you essentially have a Brown beavertail already. Keep your GI style recoil assembly too.

My Kimber ended up with this for parts...

EGW oversized FP stop
Gi-style recoil setup (Ed Brown)
WC bulletproof extractor
Ed Brown ambi safety (the full size one that I contour to my own specs)
WC extended "Combat" ejector (it's stainless)
full Cylinder and Slide fire control group.
WC trigger
EB "Hardcore" slide stop (I like the WC one better but couldn't get one)
EB beavertail

I did a Kydex holster a while back for a buddy with a Warrior. Super nice pistol but full of MIM parts like every other Kimber.

[SGB]

Both the Hardcore and bullit proof parts are top notch. I prefer Ed brown myself.

[Dave L.]

BTW... If you have a Warrior then you essentially have a Brown beavertail already. Keep your GI style recoil assembly too.

Are you saying the beaver-tail is a Brown or its the same design, is the quality the same?

Also, I wouldn't put a full length guide ride on a fighting gun, but the one supplied in my Kimber looks weak- I'll probably get the Brown version.

[-Wes-]

Just want to add that EB's "Hardcore" parts have a life time guarantee, I was just on WC's site and can't find anything on their "Bulletproof" parts.

[Dave L.]

Just want to add that EB's "Hardcore" parts have a life time guarantee, I was just on WC's site and can't find anything on their "Bulletproof" parts.

True, I noticed that also. As I stated above, EB also states they heat-treat the steel. Wilson only claims to use a higher quality steel.

[madryan]

Are you saying the beaver-tail is a Brown or its the same design, is the quality the same?

Also, I wouldn't put a full length guide ride on a fighting gun, but the one supplied in my Kimber looks weak- I'll probably get the Brown version.

It's basically a brown knockoff. Nothing wrong with it. Both the Kimber and Brown parts are MIM, which since it's more or less a non-stressed part doesn't really matter. Everyone is MIMing their beavertails these days.

As far as the guide rod setup... I don't know about the specific one in the Kimber, but you can't go wrong with the Ed Brown setup (What I have) or a Colt.

The main things I'd do is these mods in this order...

1) Check your plunger tube. About half the "Factory" guns I've come in contact with were loose. This is a big deal. If loose replace with the Ed Brown one and have someone who knows what they're doing stake it.

2) Get a competent gunsmith to ream your chamber. I'd bet it's tight, as both the Kimbers I've owned were tight. My local smith told me it's pretty common on Kimbers. I don't know why they do this aside from laziness.

3) Fit an oversized Firing pin stop and high quality extractor. Should cost you about $40 for the parts and $20-$30 for labor and your gun will run worry free. I bought the EGW and did it myself, although the EGW comes with a square bottom so you need to know something about the function of the 1911 to bevel it because it affects the timing of the slide.

4) If your feed ramp has Kim-Pro or whatever they call their bake on paint you might want to strip and polish it. I've seen full house custom guns that wouldn't feed hollowpoints reliably because the Teflon or GunKote or whatever on the ramp was causing the round to hang up. A nice smooth (Don't mess with the angle... I'm talking lightly polished) feedramp is the ticket.

Those are IMO the essential stuff to check/replace.

Your fire control group is probably fine, but you can't go wrong with a better disconnector like the Ed Brown model. The stock MIM part can break, but a good toolsteel model should last really well.

If you like the ambi safety on the Warrior then I'd keep it. It's a fine safety, but I like the Kings or Brown safeties the best.

If accuracy is not up to par I'd crown the barrel but that requires a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck and a really nice dial indicator and some gage pins, plus a really sharp carbide cutter. I've yet to see a factory 1911 barrel with a properly cut crown. Since I re-crowned my barrel I've had absolutely no accuracy issues with my stock barrel. The gun will shoot much better than me, and I'd put it up against any of the boutique guns for real world accuracy.

Aside from that stuff, I'd just buy stuff as you go such as a better slide stop to replace the one you have when it shears the lug off. Also, have someone who knows what they're doing "Sensatize" your grip safety if you have any worries about the thing not dis-engaging. My Kimber Pro-Carry had this issue. I filed a bit of material off the safety and no worries. The grip safety in my Stainless II disengages with barely any pressure.

Overall, the 1911 is the ultimate pistol for people who like to tinker. If the SHTF and I had to grab one gun it'd be my Glock 19, but I do shoot better with my 1911.

You won't regret working your Warrior over. A buddy (Who doesn't even own a 1911 but is one of the most lethal shots with a pistol I've ever known) shot my pistol back to back with a bone stock Warrior and he was astounded by the difference. The Warrior was great, but a 1911 that's been meticuliously gone through and worked over for form and function is truly a thing of beauty.

If you have any questions about working on 1911's feel free to PM me.

[rob_s]

I have never dealt with either company in terms of parts service, but at least one member here has been having trouble getting Wilson to take a part back that he bought from Brownells. I don't see anything wrong with Wilson's position, but it bears mentioning.

With that said, of the two companies, Wilson has a stellar reputation for customer service on their handguns while Brown's reputation isn't so good. I don't know if this translates into their parts or not, but if a company offers a "lifetime warranty" on a part but is a pain to deal with it may as well not be warranteed at all.

I would pick the external parts based on what feels good or works well for you. On the internal parts, I don't think you can really go wrong either way and I'd select them based on cost.