Please help me build my first lower.

[og556]

I recently purchased a Noveske upper and am will be building my first stripped lower soon.

I was wondering what available LPK you guys would recommend ? I would be willing to spend a hundred dollars or so for the LPK if it is as good as the one in my LMT. I am looking for a single stage trigger LPK that will be dead nuts reliable and has a decent trigger.

I definitely want a GI trigger but wouldn't mind a trigger pull around 5 lbs. with a short reset that does not sacrifice reliability.

After looking at a few sources I found a Daniel Defense LPK for around $70. I'm thinking of transplanting the trigger group from my LMT lower to the Noveske lower because the trigger is nicely broken in and only has around 1500 rounds through it.

Another part I am considering is KNS Gen. 2 Mod 2 anti rotation pins as cheap insurance since I will be SBR'ing this lower and I want it to last a very long time.

I already have a slightly used LMT buffer extension, castle nut, and a SOPMOD stock.

As far as tools go I don't have any thing except your basic screwdrivers right now. I will pick up some punches from home depot soon and some masking tape so I don't scratch the hell out of the lower. What other tools would you all recommend ?

Will I need a lower receiver block and vice to assemble the lower ? The only part I can foresee using this for is to tighten down the castle nut.

I found a few guides online to help me assemble this lower but any advice you guys could give would be greatly appreciated.

There aren't any vendors which seem to have any thing besides the RRA or DPMS LPK in stock and I understand those are OK but I'm wondering if the DD is better.

I also found a Colt LPK from SAW but that is $200 which is a little more than I was looking to spend but if it is worth it and will be an easy install I might go for it. I was hoping to get excellent quality and reliability without spending $200 for the LPK.

[Fire_Medic]

The best advice I can give as for putting it together is to take a look at the sticky threads here on assembling your lower. They're a great resource and mention the tools needed:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

As for the LPK if you're happy with your LMT then why not just buy an LMT LPK for this lower.

[og556]

Thanks for the link that is very helpful.

I need to find a good carbine stock wrench in stock now, a couple of punches, and lower receiver block.

If I could find an LMT LPK I would buy it in a heartbeat. I searched and found a thread from a while back where Grant from G&R was offering but only with a purchase of a lower receiver.

If any one knows a website I can buy an LMT LPK or other high quality LPK currently in stock please post me a link.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

I would strongly suggest you use the pliers method of pushing the pin in for bolt catch. Wrapped in tape to protect the lower, the pliers were way easier for me than trying to drive the pin with a punch and hammer. IIRC it is shown on the AR site right after the standard method.

I really have liked my WOA parts kits. I got them sans trigger groups, but with the Full MAID. Check out the recent thread on Bill Springfield triggers, sounds like that is what you are looking for.

No beer for me until I get the fron pivot pin in.

[og556]

I emailed Bill Springfield and asked about which brand LPK's he is offering. He is offering complete LPK's with his 4LBS trigger job on his site for around $119. That might be a good route to go.

[Bill Bryant]

I got some roll pin punches and roll pin holders from Brownells, used coiled spring pins (Stag/CMT) instead of slotted spring pins, and everything went together like the cat's pajamas.

I don't like these:



I like these:



I have no idea which kind is in the TDP, or whether it matters. I just know that the split pins are harder to work with, at least for me.

[og556]

Bill's LPK is DPMS. What is the advantage of using that type of roll pin ? I always thought they were harder to work with ?

[Iraqgunz]

If you use the proper punch (the one that is cut away and designed for this purpose) then you should have no problems installing the bolt catch.

I would strongly suggest you use the pliers method of pushing the pin in for bolt catch. Wrapped in tape to protect the lower, the pliers were way easier for me than trying to drive the pin with a punch and hammer. IIRC it is shown on the AR site right after the standard method.

I really have liked my WOA parts kits. I got them sans trigger groups, but with the Full MAID. Check out the recent thread on Bill Springfield triggers, sounds like that is what you are looking for.

No beer for me until I get the fron pivot pin in.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

If you use the proper punch (the one that is cut away and designed for this purpose) then you should have no problems installing the bolt catch.

Duct tape and a pair of pliers, add in Bisquick and you can make anything.

The correct tool always helps make life easier. If you have to order a wrench, you might as well get the correct tools for a few dollars more.