Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 24 of 24

Thread: Bike lube and de-greaser?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    130
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by bill_d View Post
    hey, kypd,
    dont get your feelers hurt,
    nobody is denegrating anyone.
    your post was understandable,
    the fact is, the referenced study is
    probably a sturdy root for your personal
    research.

    you are not considering etching your weapons, are you?
    Were you raised in a barn? "Hare-brained" isn't exactly a compliment.

    I would like to see the study you referenced. Can you provide a link? Always happy to learn.

    The conclusion in the report you mentioned about lubed guns exhibiting increased bolt longevity makes perfect sense. Hardly seems worthy of spending tax dollars to research.

    what you should be concerned about is using a good non-aerosolizing oil/grease combination that does not combust and is stable in high temperatures.
    That is exactly what I was saying. The problem is that there are few useful surface applied "non-aerosolizing" lubes that do not oxidize, do not react with powder residue, can withstand extreme high pressure, and are stable at high temperatures. A very big order. When you find one, let us know. And while you are at it, define the meaning of "high temperature." In the meantime, we will just have to get along with good enough.

    I have no interest in etching my weapons. But so far, I have not heard anything that suggests that citrus cleaners intended specifically for bike use will etch anodized aluminum, chrome plating, stainless steel, or carburized carbon steel. Those are the materials in an Ar15.

    Bike parts are bare aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, chrome plating, paint, and sometimes, carbon fiber-reinforced plastic. Almost identical to AR15 materials, and without anodized coatings, the aluminum is even more likely to etch/corrode. It seems unlikely that manufacturers of bike cleaners would risk the liability of corroding (etching = corroding) their customer's bikes, but I suppose it could happen.

    Worse things happen with gun products. For instance, Shooter's Choice solvent (actually GM Brake Cleaner repackaged for firearm use) when unintentionally mixed in a stainless steel gun barrel with Sweets 7.62 solvent will etch and pit the barrel. So your point is worthy of experimentation. I will followup with some results later.

    I agree with your point about it not being necessary to "degrease" a rifle. That was not my intention anyway. A little copper and carbon left in the pores of a barrel's internal surfaces make it more accurate, in my experience. Most civilian guns don't typically get as dirty as a bike chain, so I don't see the need for degreasers. But I am interested to see if it cuts caked on fouling on a bolt tail as well as Slip carbon killer.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    PA U.S.A.
    Posts
    79
    Feedback Score
    0
    kypd,
    in particular,
    ...surface applied "non-aerosolizing" lubes that do not oxidize, do not react with powder residue, can withstand extreme high pressure, and are stable at high temperatures. ...
    those requirements are met by several types out there.
    1. mad dog's grease, i think it is called XF7 or something . from what i understand it is not a completely synthetic compound, but contains no teflon.
    you get a little where you want it and it stays there.
    2. slip EWL is a thinner lube, works well with some heavier greases, has those properties. this is good to have even in the gas key area.
    3.superlube synthetic with teflon, a heavier grease. has a salt water rating that some end users find useful.
    4.weaponshield lithium complex grease synthetic
    5.weaponshield liquid lube synthetic
    6.TW25B (with teflon) synthetic grease meets all the requirememts and is thinned with 91percent isopropyl alcohol if you need to squirt it somewhere , sort of like
    degreasing and regreasing simultaneously. (this works)


    anyway, there are a few,

    and now, yes, you have heard , it just didn't sink in yet,

    don't use the citrus cleaners on your weapons.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    130
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by bill_d View Post
    kypd,
    in particular,
    ...surface applied "non-aerosolizing" lubes that do not oxidize, do not react with powder residue, can withstand extreme high pressure, and are stable at high temperatures. ...
    those requirements are met by several types out there.
    1. mad dog's grease, i think it is called XF7 or something . from what i understand it is not a completely synthetic compound, but contains no teflon.
    you get a little where you want it and it stays there.
    2. slip EWL is a thinner lube, works well with some heavier greases, has those properties. this is good to have even in the gas key area.
    3.superlube synthetic with teflon, a heavier grease. has a salt water rating that some end users find useful.
    4.weaponshield lithium complex grease synthetic
    5.weaponshield liquid lube synthetic
    6.TW25B (with teflon) synthetic grease meets all the requirememts and is thinned with 91percent isopropyl alcohol if you need to squirt it somewhere , sort of like
    degreasing and regreasing simultaneously. (this works)


    anyway, there are a few,

    and now, yes, you have heard , it just didn't sink in yet,

    don't use the citrus cleaners on your weapons.
    I own and have tried most of the lubes you listed. I will need to try Mad Dog. In my experience, Pedros and Phill's performed better over time. That's why I use them. But I will get some Mad Dogs and "Superlube Synthetic" (who makes it) and give thme a try. But I won't use products that contain teflon in my barrel or gas system.

    I am impressed that you say don't use citrus cleaners, but there are many on the market. Which one's etched your weapons? Are you condemning all of them? If so, why?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    390
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Probably, a good degreaser choice would be the aircraft certified formulation of Simple Green. I had a talk with their chemist a few years ago when I was trying to determine if the commercial formulation was safe for firearms including aluminum frames.

    At the time she told me they were reformulating to meet FAA requirements for certification for aluminum airframes and to avoid any citrus or similar formulation that was not specifically formulated to be safe for aluminum. The FAA certification is one way to be sure.

    She said that their then commercial product could remove anodizing from some aluminum alloys and might cause corrosion if left trapped in small spaces like crevices or pin holes.

    I just use Walmart brake cleaner with plenty of ventilation. Another good choice if you want to soak parts is "odorless paint thinner" otherwise known as Stoddard Solvent. It is one of the solvents specified in the military AR manuals for cleaning especially when changing lubricants. As far as I know it won't hurt any common gun materials with normal cleaning exposure time. It doesn't evaporate very fast but it is flammable and should not be used in the house.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •