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Thread: Zeroing your weapon ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Molon View Post
    M193 from a 6920


    From this chart the 50/225 zero would seem preferrable to the 100 zero?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by glocktogo View Post
    From this chart the 50/225 zero would seem preferrable to the 100 zero?
    I do. I think it is the one that makes the most sense in my mind. The former Delta guys who are trainers now, use the 100 yard as it is the most practical from a combat (house to house/Urban standpoint. There's very little variance between the two, but I like not changing POA from 50 to 225 yards with the 50/200 yard zero. Below 40 yards, just take into consideration "height over bore (2.5 inches)" when engaging targets.
    For God and the soldier we adore, In time of danger, not before! The danger passed, and all things righted, God is forgotten and the soldier slighted." - Rudyard Kipling

  3. #23
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    Does all this change with tact. optics ie. 3-9x42 with 100 to500 meter elevation adjustments.thanks

  4. #24
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    http://combatshootingandtactics.com/...llpictures.pdf

    this was a good read, taken from csat's site, what RogerinTPA was saying above.
    Last edited by sadmin; 01-13-10 at 16:20.
    Matthew 10:28

  5. #25
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    Speaking of csat, I'm waiting for XS to come out with a CSAT rear sight for the Troy folding BUIS.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Defoor View Post
    Meters or yards, pick one, it doesn't make a significant difference at short ranges with infantry guns (non-magnified, non-accurized). I grew up with yards.

    A carbine can't be zeroed for CQB. It's not possible,-barrel/sight relationship. The sights/sight would have to be on top of the barrel ala a pistol.

    300m zeros are the reason so many bitch about 5.56 not getting the job done. The other is ammo. Average engagement distance has and always will be around 100-150 (what most people can see without magnified aid, especially a small target, like a man in the prone).

    Ammo and barrel length play a slight hand in it, but honestly (and trust me, I've been in the tests at Crane and elsewhere), none of us shoot better than either. So don't get wrapped up with it, and don't use it as an excuse. You just need to practice more. 10" uppers with EOTechs and Aimponts shooting 55 gr.ball, 70 gr. TPX, and 77 gr. BLK Hills have killed way good with 100 and 200 zeros out to 200m with no problem. In fact, we all HAD to shoot over 175 with irons on the Navy qual at 200, not 25, with 10" barrels and 55 gr.!

    100m zero-
    never off more than 2.5" (barrel/sight relationship) from contact distance to 100m(i.e.- you can see and take a head shot at this distance and hit). Low 4" at 200. To take a shot at 200 without magnified aid you'll have to have a torso shot anyway (so that extra 4" will be there, and you have 200m to tell yourself to aim high a hair). 4" is acceptable considering the capabilities of the normal M4 (4 MOA), and the capabilities of the normal marksman.

    200m zero-
    Only a 2.5" difference either high (about at 100) or low (about at 250) out to 250m.

    Here at TigerSwan, we are advocating a 200 because it fits for all our customers. Meaning that a military guy with be able to cover the entire seeable battlefield and get a kill shot, and a LE guy (who's engagemnet distance will most likely be 50 and less) will hit in his entire spectrum as well.

    Bottom line - Either the 100 or 200 is a good choice, just not the 300. The bottom line on either zero choice is to know your holds at different distances.

    Hope that helps,
    Thanks Kyle, much appreciated.

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