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Thread: Troy TRX Extreme vs VTAC Extreme?

  1. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark5pt56 View Post
    Has anyone cut the 4" rail to minimize weight/bulk and to use the QD socket? Or if Troy plans on making a 2" w/QD socket?

    I was looking at the ARP one, concerned about the nylon backing nut though?
    Went through all those iterations. Ran the chopped 4" rail with a long backing plate and 2 screws and with also with just 1 screw. Didn't make a difference. I got the LPSM on the top rail and never looked back.

    https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.p...8&postcount=45

    Also been wanting to flush a MOE foregrip in place of the chopped TD stubby.

  2. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by shootist~ View Post
    Just food for thought, but I would try to re-contour using a belt sander or possibly a Dremel.
    I see two potential problems with this, even though I thought of it too.

    The first is that there are two small tabs that interface with the slots in the tub (this wouldn't work at all with the holes in the non-VTAC), and since the grip has only one screw these slots prevent rotation. Yes, if the contour fit the tube exactly it shouldn't rotate, but the tabs add another layer to the anti-rotation.

    The second is that the material is pretty thin. I don't know if you could go deep enough to match the curvature without eating through the top of the grip where the screw goes. At best you'd weaken that area.

    Regardless of the above, if I can find a sanding drum the exact diameter as the OD of the tube I'd get myself a bench grinder and give it a go.

  3. #193
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    How well do the slots in the grip match the slots in the Vtac rail?

    Are they good and snug? A little loose? Floppy?

  4. #194
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    What is the outer diameter of the Troy TRX? I may have missed it in reading this thread.

  5. #195
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    Anybody else have their helcoils back out on them? I haven't even got a chance to wring mine out yet. Took it to the range to sight it in after installation and then removed it to add a short rail to add a light. When I tightened the screws per instructions, the screw kept turning and I noticed the helicoil was pulled out. I called Troy and they emailed me a return shipping label minutes later. Fast forward 2 1/2 weeks and my rail came back repaired. Today I installed it and when I tightened the screws again per instructions, the same helicoil backed out. Someone on TOS suggested just getting some screws and nuts and tightening it with those. I really don't feel like sending it out for repair again if it's going to come back all jacked up again. I want to like this rail but it's far from durable since it seems to be a single use install and if I want to install rails at some point, it will need to go back to Troy for repair again. Has anyone else here had problems with the helicons and just Jerry rigged it with different screws and nuts? I wouldn't even feel comfortable selling this thing even after Troy repairs it again.
    We do not rise to the level of our expectations. We fall to the level of our training.

    -Archilochus

  6. #196
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    An n=1 hardly means that the rail is far from durable. I would say you are in the minority with this issue. Why not give the manufacturer another chance to make it right? It seems like they tried to do good by you. Ask for a replacement, not a repair. It could be that the rail in question has a defect that a replacement helicoil just can't solve.
    I've had two of these rails and taken them off multiple times each with no problems. I use blue loctite and only tighten them about a quarter turn past snug to secure them.

  7. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reddevil View Post
    Anybody else have their helcoils back out on them? I haven't even got a chance to wring mine out yet. Took it to the range to sight it in after installation and then removed it to add a short rail to add a light. When I tightened the screws per instructions, the screw kept turning and I noticed the helicoil was pulled out. I called Troy and they emailed me a return shipping label minutes later. Fast forward 2 1/2 weeks and my rail came back repaired. Today I installed it and when I tightened the screws again per instructions, the same helicoil backed out. Someone on TOS suggested just getting some screws and nuts and tightening it with those. I really don't feel like sending it out for repair again if it's going to come back all jacked up again. I want to like this rail but it's far from durable since it seems to be a single use install and if I want to install rails at some point, it will need to go back to Troy for repair again. Has anyone else here had problems with the helicons and just Jerry rigged it with different screws and nuts? I wouldn't even feel comfortable selling this thing even after Troy repairs it again.
    At this point I would contact them, advise them that it still has the problem, and ask them to ship you out a new one with a return label for the old one. I would have no problem giving them a CC# for their "security" if they wanted.
    My fear is that ahh, the whole island will ahh, become so overly populated, that it will tip over and ahh, and capsize...
    Hank Johnson (D) GA YouTube

  8. #198
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    Sling mount

    This was just to see how it sat on the rail etc... just a quick mock up... I am planing on welding a tube that fits the ID of the hole on the troy to the loop. It is simply a sling mount from a collapsible stock.

    It would be easy to turn it horizontal and use with a H+K clip if needed.




  9. #199
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    I wonder if a shorter one of those (less side to side room for smaller sling clips ala HK clips) could work, and fit on the upper diagonal rails? That would be awesome.
    عندما تصبح الأسلحة محظورة, قد يملكون حظرون عندهم فقط
    کله چی سلاح منع شوی دی، یوازي غلوونکۍ یی به درلود
    Semper Fi
    "Being able to do the basics, on demand, takes practice. " - Sinister

  10. #200
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    This was my solution to adding a handstop stub to the TRX without using rail sections.





    I wanted low-profile, comfortable and needed it now so I turned it to profile, threaded and ground it to fit. Now to get rid of the side rail for the QD sling socket...
    Last edited by Resq47; 07-14-10 at 23:15.

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